Can be done in under 15 minutes.

-Remove the handlebar plastics (3 plastic pins)
-Wear surgical gloves :lol:
-Remove master cylinder covers and suck the oil in the reservoir with a syringe
-Unscrew hose bolts behind the master cylinder
-Swap hoses
-Hook everything back together after topping up the reservoir with DOT4 oil
-Report here

 

Can be done in under 15 minutes.

-Remove the handlebar plastics (3 plastic pins)
-Wear surgical gloves :lol:
-Remove master cylinder covers and suck the oil in the reservoir with a syringe
-Unscrew hose bolts behind the master cylinder
-Swap hoses
-Hook everything back together after topping up the reservoir with DOT4 oil
-Report here

.....and don't forget you swapped them when you ride. 8)

 

???Note???

Any time you remove any component of the braking system that involves the brake fluid. You should always bleed the system to remove any air that could of entered it! Having air in your brake hydraulic system will cause poor reacting brakes or no brakes.

Happy Scøøterïng!
rtÅnïmal

 

Don't forget to tell anyone else who may ride the scooter (repair mechanic, etc) that they have been swapped. Grabbing the front brake lever at the wrong time could be expensive on the plastic (both scooter and credit card!)

Cheers,

 

Remind not to ride your scooter. :shock:

IF you have any service done on the scooter maybe some kind of a warning label like big brother wants would be a good idea.

This may help on the gas.
http://throttlerocker.com/

 

I would not be switching for all the above reasons. And what are you going to use for the rear brake lever which usually requires more strength that you already said you don't have. I use my rear brake much more than the front. The front will do 70% of the braking but I don't need the front when in a corner just to slow up a bit. Plus, if you have taken the experienced rider's courses you will know you should not be using the front brake for that final few feet of stopping distance at lights and stop signs. You use the front with the rear to quickly scrub off speed but the final rolling stop is done with the rear brake under 5mph. How many times have you seen a biker with a clutch slow quickly and then waddle with his feet down up to the final rolling stop. It is funny to see and wrong. His brake foot should have been on the brake and not using the front brake alone. Thus the waddle he shows. Leave your brakes alone. Do some hand exercises to strengthen it and ride safely.

 

I'm not sure how your area is, but around here we have yearly inspections. And I'm 99% sure this would FAIL because it does not follow federal guidelines for braking systems on motorcycles. You might think that manufactures just do stuff the the heck of it, but 99% of the time when it comes to controls and placement of stuff, there are federal laws that govern look/type/operation/placement of most devices. Check out the following website, included is an excerpt from it regarding the brakes. It even divulges into how a linked braking system must operate (for our pre-06 400 owners )

http://edocket.access.gpo.gov/cfr_2005/ ... 71.123.pdf

8. Twist-grip throttle ........................ Right handlebar ........ Self-closing to idle in a clockwise direction after release of hand.
9. Supplemental engine stop ................ ......do.
10. Front wheel brake .......................... ......do .............................. Squeeze to engage.
11. Rear wheel brakes ......................... Right foot control 1 .......... Depress to engage.
Left handlebar permissible for motor-driven cycles.

 

You did not say is it a 400 or is it a 650? The 650 about stops itself.

Ditto
I use my rear brake much more than the front.

 

look for an earlier burgman, where the left lever operates the front and rear brake together.

 

The rear brake on the Burgmans ARE somewhat effective because there is a lot of weight on the rear end. I would resist changing the brake line position for obvious reasons but you could change the master cylinder size on the front brake to make the pull much easier (smaller diameter piston). If you have any functionality, of some of your fingers, you can make your brakes a one finger pull. The integrated brakes from earlier models is also a good idea. Good luck.

Thanx, Russ

 

I tough with my 650 2008 if I apply strongly the rear break, the front will engage. People say here it's only the earlier and not all model.

 

I believe the linked brake was only on the pre-06 400 models, and not on the 650's at all.

 

No Burgman 650 has had linked brakes from the production line.

 

It could be possible to set up the braking system like it was on my old 1980 model Goldwing. On it the foot brake operated the rear brake and one of the front calipers. The other was operated by the hand brake lever. They used a proportioning value in the front brake line to balance the system between it and the rear brake. This would require a different master cylinder for both sides. I would imagine someone like Performance Machine would be able to set up a system like would be required for an application like that. They are known to do custom work. Here's a link to them.

http://www.performancemachine.com/

If you would contact them, they could tell you if they could handle the job. If not, they could possibly tell you someone that could. They make master cylinders, brake calipers, rotors and related brake components. I doubt they have ever did anything for a Burgman but they have done a lot of other motorcycles.

Good Luck
&
Happy Scøøterïng!
rtÅnïmal

 

Don't forget to tell anyone else who may ride the scooter (repair mechanic, etc) that they have been swapped. Grabbing the front brake lever at the wrong time could be expensive on the plastic (both scooter and credit card!)

Cheers,

A clearly marked label on the DASHBOARD would be good.

 

No Burgman 650 has had linked brakes from the production line.

I think it is because linked brakes reduces braking efficiency. The reason is;
For 100% braking efficiency you got to squeeze both levers to the limit. If rear tyre skids while doing this, you naturally easy on the left brake lever and loose 30% front brake power as well. That leads to loosing 50% of the braking efficiency instantly.
To overcome this issue Suzuki needs to fit a proper full size front brake caliper to the bike. Plus, a small size front caliper for the linked brake system. That means a brand spanking new fork design with two extra calipers which is expensive :lol:

 

I don't think anyone has mentioned the diameter of the master cylinder brake pistons might not be the same on both sides of your scooter. If that's true, then the braking effect would be affected, perhaps negatively, and the re-routing of the brake hoses should probably be avoided.

Just a thought.

Ray Nielsen, in Minneapolis and heading for the Iron Range Super Scooter Rally on Wednesday.