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! HELP ! Transmission Problems ( Knocking & Ticking ) 2006

7.4K views 22 replies 9 participants last post by  SIX-FIDDY  
#1 ·
:!: * HELP NEEDED ASAP !! :!: I purchased my 2006 Burgman NEW in the crate in Feb. 2007 and have loved every minute of my 12,250 miles I have ridden it, but yesterday something strange happened. I stopped at a red light and started hearing this strange clicking/knocking/grinding noise coming from the transmission area. My son was behind me in his car and he said he could also hear it. This noise isn't the usual "dieseling" that everyone who rides a Burgman 650 is accustom to, this is a totally distictive sound ( louder ) . It sounds as if something is grinding or rubbing against metal. Also a sort of chirping and grunting sound. :x I love this "SCOOTER" and have taken the very best care of it, all scheduled maintanance, using Mobil 1 Racing 4T Full Synthetic oil in the engine and tranny since 3000 miles, and Mobil 1 75W-90 Full Synthetic Gear Oil in the final drive. It even sleeps inside my house :lol: , no kidding ! Siriously though, :?: HAS ANYONE HAD A SIMULAR PROBLEM ? Again, this IS NOT the typical dieseling that has been written about in so many other links. Unfortunetly for me, my 12 month unlimited mileage warranty ran out on Feb.24, 2008. I am hoping , with any luck, I'll find the HELP my Burgman needs right here on BUSA ! Thanks in advance for everyones help! PM me if you would like.
 
#2 ·
Is that gear oil "hypoid" gear oil or equivalent? I'm leery of putting anything but hypoid in the rear end. I have 21,000 on my 650 with no problems so far so I can't shed any light on what might be your problem. Sorry.

-terry
 
#4 ·
-terry said:
Is that gear oil "hypoid" gear oil or equivalent? I'm leery of putting anything but hypoid in the rear end. I have 21,000 on my 650 with no problems so far so I can't shed any light on what might be your problem. Sorry.

-terry
Terry, I'm not sure about hypoid, I researshed the forum while in the process of choosing a final drive oil , and the Mobil 1 70W-90 is used by many on here and comes highly recommended. I don't think this problem exist in the final drive. The sound is definately coming from mid tranny. I am going to try to get my local dealer to check it out and try to get any repair covered under warranty. This bike is low miles @ 12,200 and still like new. I know it's a long shot in these days of customer "NO SERVICE", but I am a true believer that if you DON'T ask you WON'T recieve.
 
#7 ·
:arrow: O'K, NEW DISCOVERY !! I was using a screw driver as a stethascope, trying to pin point the location or the source of this the niose previously discussed. It appeared to be coming from the lower side (right side when sitting on bike)of the big round part of the tranny. There is a brass colored bolt on the bottom of this chunk that looks like a drain plug, so I put a bowl under it just in case it drained out, and removed the bolt. There was NO fluid in this area, but the BIG DISCOVERY was the damage to the end of the bolt itself. It defineatly has had something grinding on it because on one side ( at the tip that is inside the case) of the bolt there is about 1/32 to 1/16 chewed off. That may seem minimal, but I am sure that is where the NOISE is coming from and it surely shouldn't have metal to metal contact in that area. :?: With this info, DOES THIS HELP ANYONE RECOGNIZE THE PROBLEM. :? Baffled in LAWRENCEVILLE :?
 
#9 ·
Jim said:
Possible cam chain tensioner?

This may help.
Ron Ayers Microfich
:arrow: WOW !, Thanks for this link Jim. While starring at the micro finche doesn't solve my problem, it surely helps to recognize the parts being affected by this noise so that I can speak more intelligently with my dealer service manager.

:arrow: It appears that the *Shaft Stopper Bolt (#17) is touching the*Primary Pulley Assembly (#9) or the O-Ring (#11 & #12) for the Primary Pully. Not sure why this is happening, maybe someone on here ,knows. It may have something to do with the Pulley Position Sensor (#18)

:arrow: I'm still seeking HELP !! I know the effect, I'm now looking for the cause !

:!: JIM, Thanks again for this awesome link !
 
#11 ·
bugmanchad said:
I think that driving it like a cat with it's ass on fire may have something to do with this issue. :wink: Maybe your wife sabotaged it. :shock:
:lol: BUGMAN, you are so bad. You know I ride my Burgman like the OLD LADY that only drives her car to church on Sunday !! The second option is more than likely true. I wouldn't put anything past an angry woman ! :arrow: (NOTE: My wife is a wonderful lady and I am BLESSED to be associated with her !) :cheers:
 
#12 ·
Hello Jim,

Thank you for the lead 8)

What a great tool the fische from Ron Ayers is for all of us !!!

Have a great day,
Per
.
 
#14 ·
I recall this same issue came up in a post about a year ago. I wouldn't know what to search for to find it, but I would suspect that someone like Jim would have that on record. I remember that same bolt being described as chewed off, and it required a lot of work to fix. So the bottom line is that I know it has been reported here before, and there's no point asking for help when you know it's broken. Take it in!!!!
 
#16 ·
JohnK said:
Definitely not normal, get it to dealer and repaired under warranty ASAP.
Unfortunately for me, my 12 month unlimited mileage ran out on 2/24/08 with around 10k on the bike. Current mileage is as stated earlier @ 12,200 miles. This bike is still too new for this sort of problem. :x
 
#18 ·
Still take it to the dealer, and at least get an estimate, or a diagnosis. But don't let that be the final word, (ask me how I know). At least it's a good start.

If your handy with a wrench, the 1st thing I would do, if you haven't done it already, is to buy a Service Manual, and read up.

You found the part in question, maybe you can fix it yourself, without pulling the engine.

I had a similar issue with a clutch, and it turned out not that bad.
 
#19 ·
Jim said:
Still take it to the dealer, and at least get an estimate, or a diagnosis. But don't let that be the final word, (ask me how I know). At least it's a good start.

If your handy with a wrench, the 1st thing I would do, if you haven't done it already, is to buy a Service Manual, and read up.

You found the part in question, maybe you can fix it yourself, without pulling the engine.

I had a similar issue with a clutch, and it turned out not that bad.
:arrow: Thanks Jim for your knowlegable input concerning my 650. I plan on going by BUGMAN's house this evening and getting his factory Suzuki Service manual. I am handy with a wrench and am not afraid to take on this problem, but I will get myself educated before hand. I probably already have more experience with the Burgman 650 than my local dealer, and they charge 70.00 per hour to diagnos the problem. I will be burning the mid-night oil reading the manual for sure.
 
#20 ·
:cheers: PROBEM SOLVED :cheers:

First off , let me thank GOD for revealing this to me , and BUGMAN for loaning me his SUZUKI FACTORY SERVICE MANUAL !! This thing really had me puzzled until I studied the installation diagram on page 5-20 of the manual. I took the Primary Pulley Stopper Bolt out of the CVT housing an used a mirror and a flashlight to look through the bolt hole. I then started my 650 and let it idle without the bolt in it to look for any movement. While looking in the bolt hole I notice a BRASS like cotter pin coming around as the Primary Pulley assembly turned. Turns out that the Primary Pulley Stopper Bolt had been installed with the BOLT making contact with the pulley instead of making contact with this BRASS COTTER PIN. Since the Pulley is a micro bit further inside the hole, whereas the pin protrudes to make contact with this stopper bolt, that allowed for movement of the PRIMARY PULLEY, that is what caused the metal to metal noise I had tried to discribe earlier. ARE YOU CONFUSED YET ? Simply stated, the manual clearly states on 1 full page with photos, the importance of making sure to align the screw shaft with 1 of 2 cutaways on the PRIMARY PULLY COVER. Then this is to be aligned with the PRIMARY STOPPER BOLT HOLE and reassembled. That assures that the bolt will go in the right place when installed and torqued down ( 26.0 lb-ft ) * I never had my CVT disassemble ( This is where my thanks goes to GOD !) I only read the manual and followed the instuctions on page 5-19 & 20 ,with my fingers crossed of course. I re-installed the PRIMARY PULLEY STOPPER BOLT, tuned the key, pushed the starter button, and :arrow: NO NOISE!!! :cheers: :cheers: I then backed my Burgman out of my house and slowly put it through a series of test runs up and down the street. I rode it in all CVT modes, full auto, Power mode, and manual. To my suprise and joy, it ran perfect. I honestly think ( know ) it is quieter than before. My recomendation, especially if your 650's CVT is making more noise than you think it should, is to check your PRIMARY PULLY BOLT by removing the BOLT with a 14mm socket and inspect the end to check for damage. While you have the BOLT out, use a flashlight and mirror to inspect inside the actual BOLT HOLE. *I truely hope this is helpful and saves you the anguish I put myself through over the past few days.
 
#23 ·
JohnK said:
Good news. Thanks for sharing with us. Just imagine how much down time and money you have saved also by not having the dealer diagnose it. Another tidbit of info for us to bookmark for reference, I love this Board.
8) Thanks JohnK, I really like this forum too, and at 70.00 per hour, with a dealer that claims to have NEVER worked on a BURGMAN 650, I amagine I saved enough money to pay for my next trip to Disney World in Orlando, Florida !! :lol: I will be keeping a watch on this repair to make sure it's fixed and will do an update if needed.