[TheDarkCutlass]

To be honest, don't know. I haven't ridden it with the light on. It comes on about 3-4 seconds after I turn key on, if it does, I just cycle it until it goes away.

I guess I could drive with it on... might try that when I leave work today. Not sure if this 'failure' puts it in straight limp home mode, or what it does.

 

[Daboo]

Here's a thought, and it costs you nothing. Call the local Suzuki dealership and talk to the service people. Tell them you have this F1 light coming on. How serious is it? What does this normally mean?

You don't have to tell them you want to try fixing it yourself. And if it sounds like they are making things up as they talk to you, call someone else. I'm sure that even if there aren't Suzuki dealerships close by, that there are motorcycle mechanics in the area that would tell you the "normal" causes and approximately how much they estimate it could potentially be.

Chris

 

[TechArtGuy]

Have you jumper-ed the diagnostics plug yet to be certain that both yourself and the computer says it's an issue with the STVA?

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

Have you jumper-ed the diagnostics plug yet to be certain that both yourself and the computer says it's an issue with the STVA?

Yes, confirmed many times its C28 error code. Even tested again this morning just to see, and make sure it wasn't some other error code that possibly might of shown up.

Daboo, I don't even want my local dealer to change my tires when I bring them the rim, much less ask them for advise :lol:

Did more reading (I'm getting tired of reading) and I found 1 forum where it mentions that the STPS can get out of whack with its adjustment sending the wrong signal of its position, effecting the STVA. Going to test this when I get home today. Simple test, just put a meter to the STSP and measure the resistance with the butterflies open and again when closed.

 

[TechArtGuy]

That should do. They are also marked from the factory with a small mark of paint for alignment. Least it was on mine. Of course if the sensor's bad or slightly off by a millivolt it would only show up when metering the thing.

 

[jamesjohn]

i seem to have had the same problem. i paid $655 for a new throttle body. that included installation. i got the same code if i remember correctly.

if the FI light comes on it is bad news for sure. you must have this fixed, otherwise the engine may be damaged. trust me, you need to get this fixed. and yes mine was just like yours, come on once in awhile then, started coming on more frequently, then all the time. sooner is better than later.

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

When it started messing up on yours, did you notice any decrease in power? Or when you got the new throttle body, did you notice an increase in power?

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

Alrighty. Ran more tests today (you know as the say, test 1,335 times, buy once ).

Ran tests on the STSP this time. First thing is to unplug it, and measure voltage with key on. Came out perfectly @ 5.00v . Then next test is to disconnect STVA, plug back in the STSP, close valve by hand, turn key on and measure, then open valve by hand and measure. Open came up fairly close to spec, but the fully closed measurement was .15v out of spec. Not sure how much tolerance is in this system, but since the fully open was close enough in spec, I wasn't going to try tinkering with it and left it alone. Plugged everything back in.

Decided to go ahead and get camera and make a small video of what its doing (for further future reference to possibly aid others). Problem.... its not acting up right now! I cycled key on and off about 10 times, and everytime it did what it was supposed to do! ARGH!

Now while I did unplug the STVA plug before, I did not unplug the STSP, I just wiggled it around last time. I wonder if it was getting a bad signal from the STSP (which is why I measured it) and when I unplugged prodded with probe, plugged in, prodded with probe some more, it fixed it?

Only time will tell, and I'm still going to make a video of PROPER working STVA, and a little video of it in action for further future reference to exactly what it is/does. Will put up on youtube and post when I get it done.

 

[Don Tuite]

a huge percentage of all problems with electronics are caused by connectors.

Let us know if you figure out a way to clean those sockets and the inside rows of pins on the plugs.

I have a different version of your problem, and I think I'm gonna mooch me some carbon-tet from the same old geezer I occasionally mooch a little eutectic SnPb solder from. Presently legal contact cleaners are about as useful as spit.

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

Hurmm, I think I isolated it, and that's with the STSP, either the STSP itself, or the wiring. I can now pretty much make it 'mess up' at will now by messing with the STSP plug/wiring.

The contacts seem clean, no gunk or anything

I took a paper clip and jabbed it into the plug and tried to prode the connectors down a little so it has a little more 'grasp', and it seemed to work a little as the connector was a little more snug while connecting it up.

I decided to leave the engine cover (the one under seat) off, that way I can easily access it in the future. I'll just have to wait and see if that's all this was *crossing fingers*

ADD:

Houston, we have videos!

Here is what it looks like when it decides to mess up:
[youtube:167lgrn9]e_wFkQdMtv0[/youtube:167lgrn9]

 

[Elliott Larron]

Nope!!! That don't Sound Right!!!

Theres Only One Cycle are you hitting the Switch Again and Again or is it doing that on the One Switch!!

if you want i will Open my unit and show you Pictures if you still need Support!..

Elliott,

 

[TechArtGuy]

Hmm, now that looks familiar. Reminds me of when I got the TPS and STPS swapped. Caused behavior much like that. I'd say replace the STPS or adjust it some.

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

Theres Only One Cycle are you hitting the Switch Again and Again or is it doing that on the One Switch!!

if you want i will Open my unit and show you Pictures if you still need Support!..

Elliott,

That was with 1 key cycle, and thats when I was able to make it mess up.

I'd say replace the STPS or adjust it some.

I think I traced it to the wiring to the STPS, because I can tug on it sideways, and it would do it, but if I pushed the wires the other way it acted fine.

Speaking of acting fine, THIS is what it should be like, just so people know in the future 8)

[youtube:1d9mdson]YBntSAcdqUE[/youtube:1d9mdson]

 

[Elliott Larron]

So did you replace those wires with new ones, i had a smilar deal with the Connector Plug the fix i used for it was just to get a Pen and Put Pressure on the Female Ports.

So have you located the right wire, that is doing it.. with a Tester, :thumbup:

Make sure it's the wire and Splice it with The Correct wire and Type and right wire Gauge..

im Glad you found it it saves you Lots of Money at the Repair shop! :cheers:

Elliott,

 

[TechArtGuy]

I think I traced it to the wiring to the STPS.....<snip>

I see, hopefully it won't be too much grief repairing the open in the wiring. And a little dielectric grease on the connector pins won't hurt either. Good troubleshooting dude :thumbup:

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

So did you replace those wires with new ones, i had a smilar deal with the Connector Plug the fix i used for it was just to get a Pen and Put Pressure on the Female Ports.

So have you located the right wire, that is doing it.. with a Tester, :thumbup:

No, I have not replaced the wiring or anything yet. Its very hard to test the STSP. The red and black wires are easy, as those you can unplug to test. However the yellow wire, which is the 'output', you can only test by probing it while plugged in. Other way I can do this is to take off the front and actually test it at the ECM, but that would have to wait for another weekend :lol:

Will let ya know how it goes once I can further isolate the problem... and the good thing, this morning, FI did not come on!

 

[Elliott Larron]

it's So Simple just tap the Wire as far as possible from the end and to the Connector, same result you only need to probe a spec in the wire below some what a Dot or use a razor blade to cut a line to put the
Probe into the wire at one end and the other probe into the Connector and shake the wire and look at the read out for indicator droping off, you should not have to test the entire wire just where you have moved
the wire is where the infected wire is at? think of it as a Short Cut. and as far as the Cut in wire for the Test As Sean, said " repairing the open in the wiring" ,...

Elliott,

 

[jamesjohn]

When it started messing up on yours, did you notice any decrease in power? Or when you got the new throttle body, did you notice an increase in power?

when it was fixed it was slightly better, the light stayed off, and fuel efficiency improved. it was obvious after the repair. not so much before it was fixed. i was happy with result, but upset that the system failed. the manual is kinda explicit about this...if the FI light is on, get it fixed.

 

[TheDarkCutlass]

Ok, decided to post another update to my STVA Issue. Real simple to the point update, it is fixed and FI hasn't come on for over 2 months now.

Now the nitty gritty. The error code that was throwing up was in regards to the STVA. But I have determined that the STVA was NOT the issue, and never was. This is just an example of bad error processing in the manual. The code that it throws out means the STVA is not in the position its supposed to be in, and all things with the code refer to diagnosing the STVA. Problem is, the STVA does NOT send a signal back to the ECM as to where it is positioned at. It is done by the STPS (secondary throttle position sensor). So if the STPS is binding up, it sends a bad signal to the ECM about the position of the STVA, thus the error.

Reason I believe the STPS was the main culprit was because when the bike gave me 'fits' on startup (only time the FI light would come on, never while I was on the road) I can hear the STVA going crazy. I would pop it up on center stand, open seat, and push outward on the STPS and the startup check would clear perfectly (i currently have my engine cover off under the seat because of this issue). Messing with the STVA portion made no difference, only when I moved the STPS around.

What I finally did was take everything apart, even the STVA (although the manual explicitly says NOT to never ever ever never take it off). Brought the STVA inside and cracked it open. Not much to it, just a small electric motor mounted on a 1x1" circuit board. And a couple gears that link it to the STPS. Everything was hunky dory. No gunk buildup, grease was still good, nothing wrong inside whatsoever. Put it all back together (which, unlike the manual would lead you to believe... it VERY simple). Been running good ever since. I previously at one point just removed the STPS, examined how it worked, and put it back on, and that solved issue for about 2 weeks (which originally, and still makes me believe, the STPS is the main source of my problem)

 

[bobo44]

Well, i guess, i have the same problem on my Burgie as you :evil:

Before engine start:
Cold engine - fast open, but slooooooow and noisy close. No FI codec, Burgie goes normal.
Warmed engine after a few minutes - no sign of strange sound. Fast and smooth open as well as close.

Once in 14 days i have FI code before i start the engine, but after re-start engine there are no FI codec for another +-14 days. :blackeye: