I have always believed that warming up an engine before driving adds to increased engine life. To do that on my Burgman means I have to waste time sitting on the bike while it warms up due to the side stand not allowing the engine to run while extended. Does anyone know of an easy way to disable that switch on my 2013 650 Executive?
Douglas Lee
Disable Side Stand Kill Switch
Actually fuel injected engines do not need much warm up... only about as much as getting the oil to start to circulate, or about 1 to 4 minutes max depending how cold it is outside. With fuel injected engines it is best to start it, sit for a minute or two, then ride moderately for the first mile or two for the best engine life.
Carborated engines do need longer warm up times and that is where this idea of warming up all engines comes from. Changing the oil on schedule will do far more to extend the life of a fuel injected engine. Running a FI engine for too long at idle could possibly hurt long life. At least this is what I keep finding from knowledgeable engine techs in any research I do on this subject. The Burgman 650 (all models) has a fuel injected engine.
My 1990 Gold Wing and ST1100 all needed to warm up at idle for a bit before they'd stay running. The ST needed me to keep the choke on for at least a few minutes even in very warm weather. Same with my first bike, a Harley Davidson dual sport. My first Burgman 650 and all bikes after my ST were FI and performed best with only a minute or two of warm up.
I rather prefer to keep the safety measure of that side stand switch cut off.
If you really want to run the engine without riding for any extended time perhaps just put the bike on the center stand and put the side stand up. It is possible to sit on the bike and bump it off the center stand while running the engine.
Carborated engines do need longer warm up times and that is where this idea of warming up all engines comes from. Changing the oil on schedule will do far more to extend the life of a fuel injected engine. Running a FI engine for too long at idle could possibly hurt long life. At least this is what I keep finding from knowledgeable engine techs in any research I do on this subject. The Burgman 650 (all models) has a fuel injected engine.
My 1990 Gold Wing and ST1100 all needed to warm up at idle for a bit before they'd stay running. The ST needed me to keep the choke on for at least a few minutes even in very warm weather. Same with my first bike, a Harley Davidson dual sport. My first Burgman 650 and all bikes after my ST were FI and performed best with only a minute or two of warm up.
I rather prefer to keep the safety measure of that side stand switch cut off.
If you really want to run the engine without riding for any extended time perhaps just put the bike on the center stand and put the side stand up. It is possible to sit on the bike and bump it off the center stand while running the engine.
Good advice! I’m 71 and have been riding since 14 years old so very little experience with fuel injection. My ‘07 Roadstar was the last year before they added fuel injection on the ‘08 model. I didn’t trust FI back then so I actually hunted for a low mileage carbureted model thinking it would be more reliable. Now I find I would never own another “carbonated” bike again. I’ll keep the kill switch. Thanks 😊
I can tell you how NOT do do it! I unbolted mine pulled it loose and zip tied it to the up position , going down the road the tie slipped off and I walked about 4 miles one way to get another one 
I'm not sure if I would trust the mod since a Burgman has no "neutral" and starts in gear. Can't speak for everyone's personal scooter but on mine there is a slight pull even at low rpms when I crank it. It may not be enough to move the bike forward off the kick stand but I wouldn't want to trust it not to...
Well, " Playing Devil's Advocate", but both my scooters Burg 400 and SW600 had been modified to run with side-stand down, but "ONLY" when parking brake is set, the way is done on the Suzuki is more complicated, as you have to add a separate switch, diode, etc., it's not a simple wire cutting/splice/zip-tie. etc. Is awesome for warming up bike on very cold days, loading while it warms up, closing garage door/gate without shutting off bike, etc. or situations when center-stand use is more difficult or unwarranted.
Here's my thread on it https://www.burgmanusa.com/threads/...om/threads/my-side-stand-down-starting-to-parking-brake-mod.175634/post-1805393
Here's my thread on it https://www.burgmanusa.com/threads/...om/threads/my-side-stand-down-starting-to-parking-brake-mod.175634/post-1805393
Don't disable due to CVT being engaged - the bike could start moving or fall over! (1) I agree, warm-up always a good idea, 1-2 minutes minimum, more if crazy cold outside. (2) Raise on center stand which raises rear wheel, then raise side stand and start it up. You'll see the rear wheel start driving while you warm it up; there is no "neutral" on a Burg.
Hey Douglas. Letting an engine idle until it is warmer is actually bad for the engine and here's why. An engine that is on idle will take longer to warm up than to drive it gently. That means that the fuel enrichment, aka choke, is on for longer meaning a richer fuel mixture which in turn means that valuable oil lubrication is getting washed from the sleeves, with the result that you are increasing the wear on the sleeves and actually not increasing the engine life. Many people will tell you that all you want from a start up is for the oil to reach all the intended places. Therefore, just idle for 10/15 seconds, because that is all it takes for the oil pump to do its work. Then drive away at gentle speeds and RPM. Sure to race or drive a cold engine hard is equally as bad as letting it just idle.
PS. I have noted that other posts here already said what I just posted. I should read all posts first, then reply.
PS. I have noted that other posts here already said what I just posted. I should read all posts first, then reply.
A few points.
Most modern fuel injected (FI)engines do have a richer mixture at startup, but usually also have a higher cold idle speed, to warm-up quicker, it also helps move oil and fuel faster thru engine.
The problem of "over-choking" a cold engine or running and excessively rich mixture for too long we had with a manual chokes is not an issue anymore with FI. The computer controls all that and with ever increasing emissions requirements is calibrated to be as efficient as possible (Lean).
Warming up at idle or driving off after starting in most cases/temperatures were you would use scooter/ bike is ok.
A properly working lubrication system, using the specified oil type, etc., should extinguish the oil pressure light immediately or at most in a few seconds and circulate oil thru engine in less than 5 seconds, regardless of outside temperature, don't believe that, run any cold engine with the valve cover removed for 5 seconds, see what you get
Most modern fuel injected (FI)engines do have a richer mixture at startup, but usually also have a higher cold idle speed, to warm-up quicker, it also helps move oil and fuel faster thru engine.
The problem of "over-choking" a cold engine or running and excessively rich mixture for too long we had with a manual chokes is not an issue anymore with FI. The computer controls all that and with ever increasing emissions requirements is calibrated to be as efficient as possible (Lean).
Warming up at idle or driving off after starting in most cases/temperatures were you would use scooter/ bike is ok.
A properly working lubrication system, using the specified oil type, etc.
, should extinguish the oil pressure light immediately or at most in a few seconds and circulate oil thru engine in less than 5 seconds, regardless of outside temperature, don't believe that, run any cold engine with the valve cover removed for 5 seconds, see what you get 
I like the parking brake/switch idea, but I did a more simple mod.
I installed a switch, interrupting one of the wires to the SS switch; I mounted it just under the front of the seat in the plastic. It can still function as a safety, however, I typically keep it off.
I do run the bike on the side stand (parking brake on), but that wasn't my primary purpose. It's quite convenient to dismount and access storage without shutting the bike off (see: seat release mod).
I installed a switch, interrupting one of the wires to the SS switch; I mounted it just under the front of the seat in the plastic. It can still function as a safety, however, I typically keep it off.
I do run the bike on the side stand (parking brake on), but that wasn't my primary purpose. It's quite convenient to dismount and access storage without shutting the bike off (see: seat release mod).
After having a bike that never had a side stand safety switch, and almost crashing several times because the side stand was still down, I wouldn't disconnect it if I were you. I warm mine up after I wash it, by having it on the center stand with the side stand up.
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