This question will always draw debate and varying opinions. Some people feel that synthetic lubricants are better than natural oils, others will argue that they aren't. Factor in the cost difference, and people get almost religious about their opinions.

I know that synthetic oil made the transmission on my V-Strom shift way smoother. It was very noticable. What that tells me, is that the synthetic oil reduced friction more than regular oil did. In the Burgman, the difference is less noticable to the rider. But I do believe it is doing the same job in the Burgman - reducing friction and protecting parts better. I've been running Silkolene synthetics in engine, transmission, and final drive for the last 9000 miles.

If cost is no object, I'd go with synthetic all around, especially if you ride hard and intend to keep the machine for a long time. For a while, cost was no object for me, because the dealer was letting me have it for free under my maintenance agreement.

For me, cost IS becoming a factor, because the dealer has started charging me the difference between the synthetic oil and regular lubricants. Silkolene is way more expensive than conventional motorcycle lubricants. I am seriously considering going back to quality conventional oils in the transmission and rear drive - perhaps keeping Silkolene synthetic in the engine. I say this because I think the engine oil has a tougher job to do than the oil in the transmission or the final drive gear oil. The fact that the manufacturer advises to change it twice as often would support that assumption. I haven't fully decided yet.

 

The primary reason why most motorcycles need motorcycle specific oil is due to the transmission and motor sharing the same oil. The additives in car oils would cause slippage in vehicles with wet clutches. But if the burgy's motor oil is separate from its tranmission oil, you could use a high quality -- and still inexpensive -- car synthetic oil like Mobil One in it. Lots of BMW riders do that (most BMWs have a dry clutch like a car).

 

I use synthetic; have been for years on all my vehicles. Amsoil now costs over $6 quart for newly reformulated motorcycle oil. Previously it was under $5. Amsoil car oil...which I'm gonna switch to next, costs under $5. You can get Mobil-1 for that also and I would use it with no hesitation. On cars, you can run Amsoil for 25,000 miles. I run mine half that, but the point is that it gives you a longer life oil if you do want to extend it a bit. Even Mobil-1, which also used this milage figure to compete with Amsoil when it first came out back in the late '70's (or early 80's) but quickly discontinued it) has now started referring to thier oil as "Extended Milage" oil ....or somesuch. I would feel very comfortable running synthetic in my scoot for 6,000 or more. And I change filters each oil change. But if you are a low milage rider, change it spring and fall.

I'm not a dealer for Amsoil, just happen to "believe" thier products are the best on the market. If you like other brands, your "belief" is as good as mine.

 

I'm in the exact same position as burg650. My 650 will be a year old in June and has about 4,400 miles on it. I'm scheduled to have a yearly PA safety inspection next week and plan to have my dealer change the oils and I'm going with the synthetics.
I've been using full synthetics in my cars amd bikes for years. I've never had an oil-related problem. I've used Mobile 1 in my cars and Golden Spectro in my bikes and change oil about every 4,000 miles.
From everything I've read, it's best to use synthetics that have been specifically made for bikes in a motorcycle. There is apparently an important difference in the molecular structure of the oil because of the different shear forces in a bikes gears, etc.

Don

 

burg650,

I always felt As far as Regular oil or synthetic we seem to have proven that the synthetic's are better.

1- Do we need better
2 -Is it worth the extra cost
3-Which brand is best
4-What viscosity to use
5-Auto or motorcycle oil

The debates go on. But in your case you want the best - cost is not a concern, then pick synthetic.
That still leaves you with the last three choices

Just my 2 & 1/2 cents worth

 

Real simple statement about synthetic lubricants in the engine is "expensive oil, but cheap insurance." If every you overheat or push the lubricant to the extreme, the synthetic's breaking point is higher.

As far as using the synthetics in the transmission (on the 400) I would almost bet you could put it in and then forget it. On my Ford Ranger, the manual tranmsionsion and rear end are both synthetic and, according to the owner's manual, require NO periodic changes. Now I will still change my 10W40 in the transmission every now and then, but I would bet that since I changed to synthetic, I really don't have to.

 

I went to synthetics @ 7,000 miles. I see no problem doing it at 4,000.
I did notice a difference when I switched over. The bike seemed to work less, (happier)