Oh dear - I do hope this turns out OK for you.

I cannot help thinking that this the bolt is not the problem per se but is an effect of something else failing and 'overloading it' to the point of bolt failure and then loss of function in the CVT.

 

Interesting, first time I have heard of one going from good to failure that quick. It makes me think there may be some other issue inside your CVT. I've got 76,000+ miles on my 650 now and I'm only on my second stopper bolt. The first one was changed out somewhere around 45,000 miles. The current one is still looking OK.

Of course it might just be a difference in how we use the bikes. Mine does not do commuting duty and sees very little stop and go type driving.

 

I agree with the others. This IS unusual that one person has experienced this failure twice. THANK YOU for posting the report and especially the picture of the failed bolt. Now we have a really good references to use.

We have not been able to correlate the bolt's failure to any single cause, such as mileage or driving habits. But since you have had it fail twice now, I was hoping you could detail your driving habits. We're not going to judge you, just want to use is as another point of reference. Info to include are city/hwy miles, use of auto/manual/power modes, and jackrabbit/easy accelerations. Also, how many miles were on this particular bolt?

For others, info on the PPSB:
http://burgmanusa.com/bkb/650+CVT+Info# ... opper_Bolt

 

I changed mine out at 11,000 after hearing all the chit chat on the bolt with the newer bolt

Only had a small nick in the original

 

After hearing about the problems with this bolt and just acquiring the scoot with 16K on it, I quickly found it on line and installed a new one as soon as the replacements showed up (bought three so I'd have a supply and do to the shipping cost). I don't know when or if the original had ever been replaced, but the one I took out had two small nicks where your are terribly worn. It looked good enough to hold onto just in case I find myself short a new one.

One thing I thought of, you didn't mention the year scoot and how long ago you replaced it. There was a change in part number at some point and some posters questioned whether they may have changed its properties, like a harder bolt.

Interested in hearing back.

 

This bolt had 23,000 miles on it. It was replaced when CVT was torn down at 15,000 miles.
To answer the question of riding habits. I used it primarily for commuting 100 miles round trip 2-3 days a week. I do tend to ride it had though. Cruising at 80-90 mph. When on joy ride I ride very hard through the twisties. I quickly accelerate and brake hard. So I know I push the burg to the limit. But I also service it regularly to keep it good shape.
Will let you know what happens.

 

I just had mine replaced last week at 24.4 did it just to have piece of mine, never heard of any major failures, just about keeping them in good condition, and yes the part is a newer issue. The bolt that was taken out had 2 small dings on the top edge, and some small gashs in the middle side area opposite of the dengs.

Other then that I will keep it as a spare, I intend to replace it every 25K regardless of condition.

 

What is the part # of this bolt, and where is it located? Thanks for any help ahead of time.
SILVER DRAGON

 

What is the part # of this bolt, and where is it located? Thanks for any help ahead of time.
SILVER DRAGON

All info is here:

For others, info on the PPSB:
http://burgmanusa.com/bkb/650+CVT+Info# ... opper_Bolt

 

This should help


https://docs.google.com/View?id=dgndw66 ... rkdw&pli=1

 

Well, Got the new bolt and put it in and all is well. So there does not appear to be any damage that is done when the pully shaft rotates freely when the bolt breaks. I have run it up to 85mph and it is running just like before.
So, IMHO, buy a couple of these bolts for $5.00 each and keep them on hand. I am keeping a spare on the bike from now on. If this ever happens again I will be prepared.

So, all AN650 owners out there. Inspect this bolt at every service interval and replace when they look really bad, like in the picture below.
Happy riding.
Doc.[attachment=0:385tizmz]pulley stop bolt.jpg[/attachment:385tizmz]

 

That is a great outcome.However I would be checking that bolt every 2000 miles from here on in.
One now has to question is the stopper bolt a fundamentally flawed design.
Maybe the stopper bolt should be 'captive' in the cover and be used to 'drive' a more substantial and more rectangular key into that bl**** slot.

 

I have a Burgman AN650K4 with 5900 miles (purchased 2 weeks ago). After reading of the primary pulley stopper bolt's vulnerability, I procured a new bolt and replaced the original bolt. The old bolt appears to be a cadmium-plated, unhardened material (no bolt head markings). There were two very small indendations at the bolt tip.

The new bolt appears to be zinc placed and has a bolt head marking (a 6 with a dot). The new bolt is just a bit longer (0.015") than the old bolt as measured between bolt head's underside and bolt tip. The bolt tip shape is more square at its edge. The original bolt tip's edge is chamfered .

 

Thanks for that assessment. No one has pointed out that the new bolt is longer.

 

My question to Doc is, How did you align the slot in the CVT pullys hub with the bolts hole?

I am concerned that you have just crushed the hubs mild steel "Basket" to comply with the bolt. That has happened before and the pictures are on here.

I think that if the CVT's hub has spun, you must re-align the slot to the bolt and failure will re-occur if not done.

 

My sentiments precisely Dave. I believe there is a fairly small likelihood that the hub has rotated precisely through 360 degrees back to its original position (even if it had, the probability of the "basket" having turned the correct number of degrees so both slots line up is exponentially lower again).

I think it's more likely that the hub has not moved at all and the damaged bolt is the physical manifestation of a failing PPPS (Primary Pulley Position Sensor). When the CVT was rebuilt by Doc's mechanics I would not be surprised if they reused the original PPPS, as physically it would display no signs of damage. However, in my experience, the PPPS (which contains a slide potentiometer to measure the current width of primary pulley expansion) can behave randomally erratic if even the smallest amounts of fluid or dirt enter through the bellows on the slide arm.

 

Question is this what a bad Primary Pulley Stopper Bolt sounds like?

Eric (Netherlands) Scooter has 50,000 km and is a 2003 Burgman 650
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RhkaNBNc ... e=youtu.be

 

This is a Pic from one of our Spanish members I believe: http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/70 ... 06079.jpg/ . In the slot, you can see a shadow of where the bolt had been tightened out of the deep slot. [attachment=0:136ek4ah]CVT bolt slot.jpg[/attachment:136ek4ah]

There was a member that had found his bolt with "Spacing" washers under the head of his bolt. The bolt would not go in deep enough and the previous owner had put the washers under the head. But it had failed again and upon full disassembly of his CVT they found that the hub had been miss-aligned and the bolt was not stopping the CVT's hub.

 

My 2008 AN650 Exec has done just under 80,000km. To the best of my knowledge the primary pulley stopper bolt has never been checked or replaced. It has distinct wear marks but no sign of failure. It has an unusual slightly uneven concave top but this doesn't look like wear. It looks like it was made this way. There is no "6" with a dot on the bolt head. I've put the bolt back in and now I notice a slight rattle at idle which I haven't' noticed before (but then I've never listened that closely before). I forgot the 'start the bike and listen before you remove the bolt" step.

I couldn't get the pic attachment to work so I put my pics here:
http://www.members.iinet.net.au/~robin3/Pictures/CVT_PrimaryPullyStopperBolt/

Edit by mod:
[attachment=1:33pmjpok]CVT_primaryPullyStopper_1_rv.jpg[/attachment:33pmjpok]
[attachment=0:33pmjpok]CVT_primaryPullyStopper_2_rv.jpg[/attachment:33pmjpok]

 

There was a change in part number at some point and some posters questioned whether they may have changed its properties, like a harder bolt.

Interested in hearing back.

I listed this message on the Suzuki Burgman Scooter Riders Lovers of fun website and thought it was important enough to relist it here.

After all the reports I read about the Primary Pulley Bolt I decided to check mine. My Burgy which I bought new, vintage 2009 came with the "6b" bolt already installed at the factory. The manufacturing date on the decal with the VIN number on the bottom stated the bike was manufactured 04/09.

Any Burgys built on or after that date should be fine. On all other years it is simple to check the the bolt head without removing any tupperware or the bolt. Just look under the right side passenger foot rest and compare what you see with Mr. LeDude's picture on the subject.

Now for questions:
Have any of the new bolts failed? How often should I check the wear on the "6b" BOLT.

 

so with all this talk about the stopper bolt i have not found anything that tells me the size of the bolt. does anyone happen to know the threads. the rest i can get from the bolt. looks easy enough to make. i took mine out and a file cuts it real easy so it is not a very hard bolt a grade 5 bolt should make a good replacement thanks. bp.

 

so with all this talk about the stopper bolt i have not found anything that tells me the size of the bolt. does anyone happen to know the threads. the rest i can get from the bolt. looks easy enough to make. i took mine out and a file cuts it real easy so it is not a very hard bolt a grade 5 bolt should make a good replacement thanks. bp.

Suzuki p/n 21748-10G10.
Available for your dealer for just a few $$.

 

Hello All...........I've noticed nobody has said if they use the paddle shifter or not......I never do except for the power button the odd time driving at slower speeds for windy and hilly country roads....I've inspected my stopper bolt showing almost NO wear....This bike is a K-3..
58K klms.....I suspect that using the paddle shifter is the reason there have been problems....I've got other bikes to shift so I don't use that feature on this bike..after all that's why I bought a Burgman so I wouldn't have to clutch and shift.....That being said...if you do like to use the paddles be prepared to change out that stopper bolt every once in a while...cheap enough to do....KEN..

 

Hello All...........I've noticed nobody has said if they use the paddle shifter or not......I never do except for the power button the odd time driving at slower speeds for windy and hilly country roads....I've inspected my stopper bolt showing almost NO wear....This bike is a K-3..
58K klms.....I suspect that using the paddle shifter is the reason there have been problems....I've got other bikes to shift so I don't use that feature on this bike..after all that's why I bought a Burgman so I wouldn't have to clutch and shift.....That being said...if you do like to use the paddles be prepared to change out that stopper bolt every once in a while...cheap enough to do....KEN..

making judicious use of the manual vs automatic mode shouldn't really induce any sort of imminent damage, however, making mode changes at higher speeds could put undue pressure / stresses onto the whole CVT system...

I think the older models suffer from vibration induced wear and tear on the primary pulley bearing which in turn over time will fall out of place and inflict abnormal wear and tear on the rest of the CVT components.

Hopefully the newer models with the the few additional changes will fair better over time, especially the 2011+ models.

 

I will shift mine in manual mode when ever I need to get to speed ASAP. It is just a bit faster if you can almost REDLINE it but not wait for the Rev-Limiter to kick in and hammer-stall. I did that on my 03 and made it to 54K miles before I got the squalling noise in the clutch/transmission side of the bike.