I've been helping AZScootRN with his new-to-him 2013 B650. Thanks to informational sources like LeDude and this forum, I've been able to muddle my way through a bike split, CVT removal and teardown. Currently, I'm waiting on a selection of parts to compliment the stuff I bought in advance that was sure would cover things.
The bike has a little over 19K on it and has seemingly minor-ish issues. On acceleration, it occasionally sounds like the belt is slipping. Sometimes it "snatches" on initial acceleration. I asked him to avoid riding it to prevent further damage, and we decided to look at the CVT.
Things we found:
1. The CVT air filter was filthy and looked to have never been serviced.
2. The rear brake rotor had a pretty deep grove carved in it by the pads. It took a bit of fiddling to get the caliper off the rotor, as the parking brake piston was run down pretty far.
3. Final drive oil looked good and smelled OK, but the clutch housing oil was pretty roasted. Engine oil looked better, so either the clutch oil was overlooked or simply cooked.
Our suspicion is that the previous owner had a habit of leaving the parking brake partially engaged and that the extra strain on the drivetrain, plus the lack of cooling air flow, caused the belt to overheat and the Kevlar bands to lose some of their resiliency. We're trying to determine if there is other, less obvious damage.
While things are apart, the plastic gears were noted to be a bit chewed up. Replacements have been ordered. The interesting bit is that the gear that drives the primary pulley looked fine, while the driven end was a bit "shark finned". The intermediate gear was fine on the electric motor side, but was chewed up where it interfaced with the other plastic gear. The electric motor gear looked fine. I noticed that the pulley driver gear was fixed firmly to the metal shaft that passes through it, while the other gear spun of it's shaft, and even wobbled due to eccentricity on its inner bore. The question is, are the plastic gears supposed to be firmly affixed to the metal shaft? It would make sense, since they have roller bearings on each end. I'm hoping one de-laminated from the shaft due to heat and that this isn't a herald of unseen pulley damage.
My other concern has to do with the primary pulley. With the pulley sheaves spun together, they spin in lockstep and their is no indication of keyway wear, If you spin the sheaves apart, there is a point (presumably beyond the normal operating range) where the sheaves can be spun independently. The question is, is there a known operating range, e.g. number of turns open from fully-closed, in which the pulley sheaves should be tested to confirm the keys inside are good? My concern is that the "low" range of the pulley may have damaged keys due to the slipping and snatching behaviors of the bike on initial acceleration. I'm hoping that in inspecting the pulley, we just turned too far open and fell off the back of the keys. Otherwise, this could get a wee bit more 'spensive.
I appreciate any guidance/wisdom you all can share. I know AZScootRN does too, he's eager to get his Burgie fixed and back on the road!
The bike has a little over 19K on it and has seemingly minor-ish issues. On acceleration, it occasionally sounds like the belt is slipping. Sometimes it "snatches" on initial acceleration. I asked him to avoid riding it to prevent further damage, and we decided to look at the CVT.
Things we found:
1. The CVT air filter was filthy and looked to have never been serviced.
2. The rear brake rotor had a pretty deep grove carved in it by the pads. It took a bit of fiddling to get the caliper off the rotor, as the parking brake piston was run down pretty far.
3. Final drive oil looked good and smelled OK, but the clutch housing oil was pretty roasted. Engine oil looked better, so either the clutch oil was overlooked or simply cooked.
Our suspicion is that the previous owner had a habit of leaving the parking brake partially engaged and that the extra strain on the drivetrain, plus the lack of cooling air flow, caused the belt to overheat and the Kevlar bands to lose some of their resiliency. We're trying to determine if there is other, less obvious damage.
While things are apart, the plastic gears were noted to be a bit chewed up. Replacements have been ordered. The interesting bit is that the gear that drives the primary pulley looked fine, while the driven end was a bit "shark finned". The intermediate gear was fine on the electric motor side, but was chewed up where it interfaced with the other plastic gear. The electric motor gear looked fine. I noticed that the pulley driver gear was fixed firmly to the metal shaft that passes through it, while the other gear spun of it's shaft, and even wobbled due to eccentricity on its inner bore. The question is, are the plastic gears supposed to be firmly affixed to the metal shaft? It would make sense, since they have roller bearings on each end. I'm hoping one de-laminated from the shaft due to heat and that this isn't a herald of unseen pulley damage.
My other concern has to do with the primary pulley. With the pulley sheaves spun together, they spin in lockstep and their is no indication of keyway wear, If you spin the sheaves apart, there is a point (presumably beyond the normal operating range) where the sheaves can be spun independently. The question is, is there a known operating range, e.g. number of turns open from fully-closed, in which the pulley sheaves should be tested to confirm the keys inside are good? My concern is that the "low" range of the pulley may have damaged keys due to the slipping and snatching behaviors of the bike on initial acceleration. I'm hoping that in inspecting the pulley, we just turned too far open and fell off the back of the keys. Otherwise, this could get a wee bit more 'spensive.
I appreciate any guidance/wisdom you all can share. I know AZScootRN does too, he's eager to get his Burgie fixed and back on the road!
