If you installed a emergency seat release to the rear seat latch to use in case of emergencies such as this you have 2 x 40 amp fuses under your seat, check the left hand side between middle and front on the outside of the tub, one is for the CVT the other protects the electrical's of your bike.

Open your glove box to access the removable left side ABS panel, you will find the fuse box behind it, check those, if I remember correctly they are identified.

That is a good start.

 

You don't need electric power to open the seat. Just push the key in and turn it like normal. First thing to check are the 40 amp main fuses. If good check the battery connections and battery charge. If good then remove the battery and battery box. Check the blade connectors on the smaller black and red wires that go from the battery cables into the wiring harness. Look for corrosion and melting of the connectors. If good then move on to checking the key switch.

 

First check your battery. Maybe it died suddenly.
I hope I'm wrong but I think your problem is in the ignition switch.
This is a common fault on bikes from 2003 to 2009. The piece that tends to break has reference of suzuki 37111-10G00-000 (Fig. 29)

 

You said that when you put the key in and turn, it is harder than normal? That is what the contact switch feels like when they fail. You can take it apart and clean it up, lightly "Burnish" the copper contacts and then put some Dielectric grease inside.

If after you check other things and determine that it is inside the ignition switch and cleaning it does not work, then check out this Ebay listing. Shipping may be different so just put that part number in your areas Ebay search line.

 

Thank you all for the quick responce, I am just about to go through the fuses and battery but my biggest problem is (if need be) that the mirrors are in the retracted position and in order to get to the front panel ( where the ignition is ) I need them out. any suggestions?

 

I do not have an Exec so I am guessing here. The mirrors have an electric motor and must be gear driven. If its just a mesh gear it may be able to slowly force the mirror out and the motor free wheels.

But please do not QUOTE me on this. Like I said above, I'm guessing.

 

Move the mirror manually. You will feel a bit of resistance at first then it will move freely. You will not damage the motor I have done it several times. When you get power on just cycle the mirrors to reset

That was my thoughts. I have done this to other electric mirrors before.

 

Hi again, just checked the battery and is OK, checked the main fuse = OK from then on there is not power through out with the exemption that the Clock and the little red key is working ( when ignition is ON ) Tried to bypass the ignition switch by connecting 12 volts directly to the mirrors's fuse and this wouldn't activate the mirrors to a ON position so I can get to disassemble the front panel to get to the ignition switch. ???? Would you Pedro or anybody else would know if I can "bridge" the Socket (connected to the ignition Switch ) so I can get "Ignition" ON and this will allow me to get these Mirrors out off the way? I hope I am making myself clear and no confusing you as this is definitely serious #S*hit to fix. LOVE THIS FORUM, LOVE MY SUZY Thanks again Clem

 

Pedro, looking into the images you've sent me I've noticed one has ( socket one) has "NC" "BBR" etc. what does it mean? Would I be able to "Bridge" and get a connection to activate the MIrrors?? thanks Pedro....

 

Yes. This scheme is from a European bike of 2008. There you can check how the contacts close in the different positions of the key.

Position "off", all contacts open.
Position "on", contact B/G and B/Br closed, contact B and B/R closed. NC and NC contact closed (In this scheme they are not used)

Sorry. I forgot to explain this to you before.

 

Move the mirror manually. You will feel a bit of resistance at first then it will move freely. You will not damage the motor I have done it several times. When you get power on just cycle the mirrors to reset

 

Before you tear everything apart. Have you checked the kill switch?

 

Clem, I experienced same last July. Turned out to be the dreaded ignition switch burnt out. If you follow all the obvious checks mentioned above you might come to same conclusion.
The mirrors should move manually - at least mine did!
When you remove the Tupperware on the handlebars and under them, you can then remove the Tupperware containing the storage boxes.
You’ll see the ignition stem running down from the key.
The switch is down on the end of the stem.
I maybe went too far to remove the front Tupperware and could then access the switch with ease to remove it with those security torx drivers.
Rather than pay a fortune to buy the whole ignition gear, I ordered the actual switch itself on eBay from the US - $20 or so rather than €400!
It doesn’t have the parking light facility my original one had, but that was a waste anyway.
There were 4 wires going to the switch rather than 6 on the US diagrams.

 

YESSS! GOT THE MIRRORS OUT OF THE WAY! Thank you soooooooo much Guys ( love this forum ) Now I can get to work and my next question is: Dave suggested to pull it apart and clean it and I would be king to do this but is it safe? I wouldn't like to be travelling at 100 KPH and decides to fail again. On the other hand replacing would be an expensive exercise I guess. Anyway I will proceed to pull it apart and then make decisions, it will be easier now. A BIG THANK YOU AGAIN! but I will be back... Clem

 

Before you do the work to pull the ignition switch out and take it apart, I would suggest you pull the battery box out and check the connections on the wires under it. That is a smaller job. I have had both problems and the symptoms are very much the same. Key on nothing working. Draw for the clock is so small that it can continue working even though nothing else does.



It's simple to check those connectors. Just remove the battery. Remove the pair of screws that secure the battery box. Lift it out. You will see two red wires of about 10 gauge that branch off the red battery cable and go back to the wiring harness near the 40 amp fuses. You will also see a similar black wire that goes from the black battery cable to the wiring harness. About a foot from the cable you will find a blade connector on each of the wires. Pull those connectors apart and check them carefully for signs of corrosion and/or melting. If any is found clean and or replace the connectors.



If those connectors are OK then you can move on to taking the front body work off and the ignition switch apart.

 

UPDATE: I KNEW I WOULD BE BACK! I can't find information on how to disengage the seat release cable from the ignition switch. No videos or instruction that would show "how" could anybody share a hint/tip? This has been a challenging job but also rewarding no just economically but socially, here i am chatting with you fellows from countries thousands of miles away. I would love to be able to contribute as well.

 

If you are trying to take the cable off so that you can remove the whole ignition key switch module you don't need to. You can remove the electrical part with the rest still on the bike.



Look behind where the wires plug in on the bottom and you will see two security bit screws. Remove those and the access plate will come off. The electrical switch is behind it and you can just pull it out.

 

From memory there is a 8mm bolt that holds the cable to the ignition switch.



Also, from memory, the electrical contact part of the switch has two screws but the heads were, for security, snapped off from the factory to keep people from undoing it to "Hot Wire" the bike. I cut a slot in my two screw heads so could use a small flat head driver.



But you know what they say, with age, the first thing to go is... Hi. My name is Dave. What are you all doing here and why am I naked?

 

LATEST: THIS IS A DISASTER, definitely need to replace the socket and remove and service the ignition switch. Do I need to buy the full cable ? or just part of it? there is any link to find parts and finally I still wander how to disengage the seat release cable from the ignition switch so I can work on it. (Gee!) Thanks again Clem

 

All I can say is WOW!!!.

But that connector may be not savable as is. You could see if there is a breakes yard around to see about the harness. If you were closer I'd sell you my 2003's as they are the same but maybe different colors of wires.

Now, I must ask. Are you running any added on devices like fog lights or heated gear? Something pulled too much current through those contacts. If so, the new one will also fail sometime.


:eek

 

I think its the plug in picture #5 in the top left of this Ebay listing https://www.ebay.com/itm/2008-Suzuk...s=Year:2007|Model:Burgman+650&hash=item3b0f3a9412:g:J7cAAOSwfCpbDxkw:rk:17:pf:0

 

But getting that shipped from California USA to Brisbane, Australia may be an issue.

 

Hi, the switch itself is very much cocked and looks the same ( if not worse) than one of the pictures Pedro uploaded ( see the pictures) through our previous conversation, he also uploaded another image with a part number only (37111-10G00-000) and I think this is the part i need but when I google the part No it shows like is also compatible with the 400. I would like pedro to confirm this as he seems to know fair a bit about it . The socket/plug does look bad but upon closer inspection the connectors look oK so I maybe able to save or if not I will need another one. I will continue with searching for parts. Forgot to clarify before, the electrical is very much stock never added any extra lights or anything I just think it must be one of the weakest points of this model... Thanks Dave

 

Cable is accessable adjacent the ignition switch with a pair of long nose pliers done it many times when i locked my keys under the seat just lever it slightly and seat will open

 

I think the part is the same for some years of 400's too.



Yes it is a weak link. None of the Burgmans devices are thru relays. So the headlights, ECM, CVT, horn, heated seats, heated bars all go thru the ignition switch. Two $2 relays would keep this from happening but Suzuki went cheap.

 

Can confirm the part is the same for the pre 07 400. Might also be for the 07+ but I don't have one of those to look at.


That the part number I used when I ordered the switch for my 07 650 Exec and it fit.

 

What a drama! I will call the local Suzuki dealer first thing in the morning before I order on line but I would expect to pay twice as much ( if not more) buying it here. In regards of the burnt plug, can it be purchased? I hope I don't need to replace the whole electric cabling. Many thanks fellows and appreciate your input Buffalo for confirming the part. Catch up tomorrow.