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First Oil change today. Overall not to bad.

1.9K views 9 replies 7 participants last post by  jimz  
#1 ·
I wanted to change out the engine and gear oil before it got to cold here in Indiana. So after a warm up ride in 38F weather it was back to the garage. Started job at 2:30, finished by 6:00. 3.5 hours a bit longish, but I was being very careful. Guess it paid off, no broken parts, or leftovers. :thumbup:

Engine oil change very simple, and straight forward. I prefer the sight glass over the dip stick used on other bikes. I put in about 1350 ml of Suzuki 4 cycle 10W40 and a filter. O rings looked good so I kept the originals in.

Gear oil, could be a lot easier. The CVT plastic shield is silly, but it wouldn't be an issue, if the fill hole was accessible without taking all the covers off. The gear oil drain plug should also have a crush washer, not the brass flat washer which weeps. I used the tried and true RTV to seal it. I wasn't about to take all the covers off again, so I backed out the drain plug by 5 threads, smeared a bead of RTV in the gap and torqued it down. Should do the trick after it cures.

I am happy that the change intervals are so long, and my gear oil came out perfect with no metal flecks detected.

The bike has been flawless. Power continues to improve, and economy is superb at around 60 mpg. The computer hasn't registered above 55 mpg yet. :?
 
#2 ·
You have a washer on the final drive drain plug? I don't.
 
#3 ·
Like you, Tim, I've found my two Burgman 400s have improved with age. The 2007 400 was running very sweet when I sold it. I second-guessed that sale for months. The 2008 400 is settling in very nicely with 10,000 miles on it since April this year.

Each time I've started off on something new for maintenance on the bike, it takes 2-3 times what it should normally take. I suspect we are alike in that we want to understand all that we're seeing and look at everything else we can while we're at it. The cool thing is that this frees you incredibly from the dealership. Once you've taken off that inner CVT cover, then pulling the variator and clutch off are only a few minutes more. It frees you up incredibly when you want to experiment. I pulled a test set of DPS weights out and put in another in 45 minutes the other night. All it cost me was the time.

I don't know whether you thought of it or not, so I'll mention it. I broke off two of the small bolts on the inner CVT cover, even though I was using a torque wrench. The reason is the back side of the cover is open to the elements. Some moisture (duh...I live in Seattle!...actually a lot of moisture) got into those openings and corroded the threads enough to break the bolts. I make sure they are well lubricated when putting the bolts in now.

Congrats on that first oil change!

Chris
 
#4 ·
I use "anti-sieze" on the bolts that I want to be able to losen some day in the future and anything that I want to not bind together.

I think the most important mechanical thing you did was to remove the metal CVT cover which means the rear shaft and CVT cover mate bearing are not bound together. A little anti sieze on the shaft end will insure future removal will be easy.

Once you have been in there a few times the rest is easy like Chris said.

Some things I have done that might be interesting:

I generally blow out (with compressed air) the sliders and brake bell housing. I put a copper 1/4" 90* fitting hose clamped to a short piece of hose that is clamped to an air blow gun to get behind the fixed variator plate ind behind the clutch bell housing.

I broke one of the speedometer tie downs. I took out the broken tie down and drilled a small second hole about 3/8" away horizontally and installed a heavy zip tie. Then I use a light weight zip tie under the permanently installed one to tie down the speedometer cable at that point.

Don't forget to mark with a sharpie or magic marker on the metal housing at each bolt hole S (short) M (medium) L (long) or some other form of marking os getting the right bolt in the right hole is easier.

Bob Weis
 
#7 ·
More good nuggets of knowledge. Thanks all.

Ahh the washer, consider it gone next time.

During disassemble part I spent the most time with the cast CVT cover. I figured it had to come off straight, and it was on tight too. Thanks to Mitch's videos I picked up the light lube on the bearing/cover mate point, I put some on during assembly. Those videos are very well done. :cheers:

Sharpie, nice idea, thanks. Them little speedometer tie downs were buggers too. I got them off though. The CVT cooling snorkel was a bit of work too. I some how managed to boing out the spring inside the rubber piece without noticing where it came from. Looks like it is designed to firm up the rubber, so that is what it is doing now. :D

I have to say the Tupper Ware was the easy part.

Anyone think it would be possible to fill the gear lube through the air vent tube?

Thanks for all the good tips.
 
#8 ·
banjo70 said:
Thought maybe you dropped out of site Mitch , haven't seen or heard anything for a while from you on the site . I bookmarked your website, good job . Bob
ah I need to come visit here more... been so busy with video editing and youtube when I go on the computer and laptop... I never got bored :lol:
 
#9 ·
very good!!

I am planning to do brake fluid change and coolant fluid change this month...

let me know if y'all have something in mind that you want to see something in the video...

brake pad change on front wheel is not ready yet... 42,000 miles and still in good shape... I am not a hard stopper :lol: