Update--I gave the switch (plunger?) a little "assistance" with a computer screw driver. I finally got it extended. I lubed it and assume that it will shift out of 1st.

Problem--the plunger seems to be bent. Is it supposed to be that way, or has it been bent someway--like going off of a trailer.

If being bent is not a natural state (I assume that it is not), can the switch be disassembled and the plunger taken out and straightened? I recall having a bent nail that I would lay on concrete with the hump side up. I would then whack the nail on the hump with a hammer until it straightened out.

Any thoughts--other than this guy is a lunatic?

Thanks in advance for any help. tom k

 

Yes you should be able to encourage the plunger back out with a small flat blade screwdriver or the right size pliers. Persevere it will pop out, give the plunger a good clean and lube with heavy oil.

 

Ooopswe crossed!

If it truly is bent then I would recommend you replace the whole unit.

If you are handy you could take the switch out of circuit as a temporary measure, and just avoid running the bike up on the stand, for that is the purpose of this interlock.

 

You're very welcome, Tom.

You are correct that the plunger is not supposed to be bent, and that is probably why it is getting stuck. Who knows what bent it. No one has attempted to disassemble the switch and post the info here, so you would be on your own. This part is a good candidate for replacement.

 

Kory, if you think it is a good candidate for replacement then so do I. My father was an auto mechanic, but he died when I was five. Didn't teach me a thing. I half understand the US tax laws. So, that pretty well says that I have no mechanical ability whatsoever.

Thanks for all the help. tom

 

Kory, if you think it is a good candidate for replacement then so do I. My father was an auto mechanic, but he died when I was five. Didn't teach me a thing. I half understand the US tax laws. So, that pretty well says that I have no mechanical ability whatsoever.

Thanks for all the help. tom

if you are talking about the switch in the pic below, I have a spare one that I got off of another center stand when mine broke.

It's yours if you want it. I will take a pic of it tonight when I get home.

 

LeDude, that is gracious of you. How hard is to get to the plug on the end of the wire?

 

LeDude, that is most generous. I will try to send you a PM. I am about to run out to church right now, so I don't have the time. I will get back with you.

Thanks, tom k

 

LeDude, that looks like mine. However, I do not have that protective stirrup around mine. Or is that just some wire that appears to be around the switch? tom

 

LeDude, that is gracious of you. How hard is to get to the plug on the end of the wire?

I didn't have to replace my switch when I replaced my center stand.... the switch is held in place by the right center stand bracket, unlike the left hand side bracket it stays in place when you drop the center stand.

however, it is very easy to do, just have to drop two bolts that hold it in place from below and then trace route it under the tupperware to its connector position on the harness as seen in the pic below, which I believe is right above / around the CVT filter cover:

[attachment=0:2x7td25x]center stand switch cable routing.JPG[/attachment:2x7td25x]

LeDude, that looks like mine. However, I do not have that protective stirrup around mine. Or is that just some wire that appears to be around the switch? tom

send me a pm/e-mail with your address and I will get it in the mail either tomorrow or first thing on Tuesday.

the sensor gets bolted / is held in place by two bolts from underneath. just a question of undoing those two bolts and letting it fall out, I think. . You will probably have to remove the right side leg cover, might as well clean your CVT filter while doing this.

I will take a picture of the switch tonight when I get home.

I believe this is a universal part on all 650, doubt that they have changed it since its original design...

 

here are a few pics of the center stand switch:

 

Since you have it hand, can you assess if the plunger is solid or hollow? I thinking it's hollow and trying to bend it back would just collapse it.

 

Since you have it hand, can you assess if the plunger is sold or hollow? I thinking it's hollow and trying to bend it back would just collapse it.

I just finished packing it like 5 minutes ago... will check against mine tomorrow, a gentle tap on the shaft should yield the desired result about it being hollow or solid.

Maybe Tom can do the test against the old / broken one once he gets the replacement piece in about 2-3 days...

 

I am thinking that it is solid and not a tube. From my limited experience, I have found that when tubes are bent that they crimp. Mine is bent, but not crimped.

I will try to look at it more when I can. Might be next weekend before I look at it. Even then, weather permitting, I have a pie run to make. Hard to pass up the pie.

Will let you know as soon as I can.

From looking at LeDude's picture, it appears that it will be most difficult to get inside the switch.

Thanks guys. tom k

 

Does anyone know if that switch is a normally closed or open contact.

 

... From looking at LeDude's picture, it appears that it will be most difficult to get inside the switch. Thanks guys. tom k

the trick about this switch is the supporting metal bracket and how precisely it fits the right side bracket and its proper distance from the center stand when it is in the up position etc ...

if you really wanted to, I am sure you could gut it, melt the outer goop and take out the electrical parts and replace it with something similar, it should not be that hard to find a similar part at an auto parts store, then cover it with the goop that is used to make it waterproof an hold the electrical parts in place.

I would first check the cost of a new replacement part, might be a worthwhile investment, savings wise / time wise and other, to just buy a new one.

the side stand switch is an open one, so I am just guessing that this one works in the same manner, is open until pressed in to close / complete the circuit.

 

See the link below. That switch is $57 bucks, item number 31. Part number 37840-10G00

I would just replace it. Or get a switch that you can waterproof and make a mounting bracket out of aluminum. It would not be that hard.

http://www.partforyamaha.com/pages/part ... uzuki.aspx

 

LeDude, thanks again for that switch. I looked at it and that wire went quite a ways up into the nether land of tupperware, etc. So, I had a mechanic put it on for me. I am not much of a mechanic. It is a shame--my dad was a mechanic, but he died when I was five and he never got to teach me anything.

At any rate, it is on and it works. Thanks again. I owe you one. tom

 

You are quite welcome, glad to hear that it solved your problem. It was just sitting in a drawer gathering dust, it was nice to find a good home for it.

 

HI ALL ! FYI, My 650 center stand switch was not allowing my scoot to start.
after cleaning it and a few pushes to the plunger the scoot started,but almost stranded me. Later I realized that I needed a new battery and replaced it. No problem after that. Good thing I didn't replace that $80.00 stand switch. Got the best battery on line for $72.00 /W free shipping and it solved both problems.

Sometimes things are not all they seem. Clyde (milbecker1)

 

The center stand switch will not stop your bike from starting. You can start the bike with it on the center stand just like you can with it off the center stand. If it sticks it will only stop the CVT from upshifting out of low gear when you are moving. So it was not the source of your starting problems.

The side stand switch will stop your bike from starting though. Next time if you want to clean a switch to resolve a starting issue try cleaning it.

 

If you replace the centerstand switch, the plug is a pain to get at. Better might be to clip the wires and reconnect the new switch. Or, just clip it off and forget the switch completely. With the wires insulated, the circuit is open and does not make the bike run in any diminished manner. I did this when I installed a sidecar. BTW, my switch was defective anyway.

 

Hi Dude -Ray downunder
was about to take her for a test run (illegaly) to check drive/ functions - few plastics on - the switch killed her when rolled off center stand
Find the switch "should" be NC when plunger is in and NO when plunger out
As mine is U/S have joined the terminals in the loom green plug with a tiny test lead and all good - will now order another
Might yet eliminate the switch altogether with a bridge
Cheers

 

I bounced my Burgie on a bus trap and scrunched the U-shaped guard above it. Now, when I put it in the stand it does what it's supposed to do. I can start the bike and rev it up, but it stays in first gear, After I drop it down, I have to crawl underneath and pry the piston just enough that it will pop out. The first time this happened it was alarming. I started looking for why this might be and realized that fixing the CVT was far beyond my expertise or my budget. I wilted. Happily, I asked her and got an immediate answer --- all I needed was a screwdriver.

This topic might be another sticky...

Regards
Scott Fraser

 

If plunger is not working I see it wont shift from first (my symptoms) but would it also throw a Fi light?