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Also have the Harbor Freight kit, as well as Mother Suzuki kit, haven't needed a single one yet. 🤞
Probably one of the most expensive ways to buy the push pins is as OEM parts, and they're only $2.49 (plus shipping) for a package of seven on SuzukiPartsNation.com. I don't see that as "$$$". I'm still working on my first package since the push pins don't break that often as long as you remove and reinsert them properly....been buying some push pins at auto parts as needed, but it's $$$.
That's why I use the corner of my standard screw driver to push in the center pin. Prevents ever pushing that pin in too far and losing it inside the abyss. Always pushed in just right every time using just the corner of the screw driver blade holding the screw driver at an angle when I push in....and occasionally you push the center piece thru into the scooter abyss, never to be found ...
That's the reason I got the Harbor Freight 240-piece box, I figured there's 60 push pins that I can use on the B400, at my local purchase price with tax, is about 8 cents per pin and they fit better, etc., than oem The rest of the box will be used on other vehicles I work on, etc. I could also install semi-permanent/Xmas tree* type pins on parts that are not removed often, like storage tub, etc., then I'll have more oem spares for other bikes I work on, not mineProbably one of the most expensive ways to buy the push pins is as OEM parts, and they're only $2.49 (plus shipping) for a package of seven on SuzukiPartsNation.com.
I actually lost dozens center push pins doing it "exactly that way" over the years, lots of bikes use them, to be fair a lot were broken by , most where missing expanding tabs.Never lost a pin doing it this way.
bwaaahahahahahaha you funny manYou know, I actually like the plastic lego tupperware - just follow the sequence, nice and gentle. No nasty seized or stripped bolts, no rust, no pre-soaking overnight, no extension pipes, no skinned knuckles, no wire-brushing them up in kerosene to prepare for re-use, no torque settings to fasten them back in... much less swearing...
I count six holes, Four rivets, plus the spring, and then the fastener.Dzus fasteners.....
........would speed up manufacturing, maintenance, replacement, etc.
I loved dzus on aircraft, I guess if burgy was aluminum, i'd have installed a fewGood points guys but I thought I'd throw the Dzus out there for discussion. In the applications I was used to they were a godsend, but I also see your points that I hadn't considered.
BAC should be below .25 when remoooving or installing too!When I was in active duty US Navy I worked on the Navy version of A7 jets. Those used Dzus fasteners all over for the panels I had to deal with. Then later in the Iowa Air National Guard I was also working on the Air Force version of A7 jets. Same setup on those for the avionics bay covers. And later it was F16 jets and again the same. The IR pod I worked on also used Dzus fasteners in places. I've seen those fasteners available for civilian use (not aviation versions) and they are not the same quality. Still, I have seen Dzus fasteners fail on military aircraft. The fastener would be fixed ASAP to prevent grounding a jet.
As to better tabs, some bikes have some tabs that are better and some not so much. Sometimes a bike will have sturdy tabs in some places and not in others. I think the Burgman is like that. Extra care taking in removing panels is needed to prevent breaking tabs. Part of that care is to not even attempt it when the air temp is 50 or lower. Warmer than 70 is even better if possible. So far with all the panels I've removed on my AK I've found the tabs are very sturdy. More so than other bikes I've worked on. But I really have not removed many panels on the AK yet so who knows what I'll find when I remove more.
Other than the B200 having a couple of panels that require contortions through sanity-unravelling non-euclidian dimensions in order to install properly (under the nose of the seat, battery cover), I haven't had much of a problem. <twitch>You know, I actually like the plastic lego tupperware - just follow the sequence, nice and gentle. No nasty seized or stripped bolts, no rust, no pre-soaking overnight, no extension pipes, no skinned knuckles, no wire-brushing them up in kerosene to prepare for re-use, no torque settings to fasten them back in... much less swearing...