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you only hafta remove it once with a sawzall , then it's no problem!
bwaaahahahahahaha you funny manYou know, I actually like the plastic lego tupperware - just follow the sequence, nice and gentle. No nasty seized or stripped bolts, no rust, no pre-soaking overnight, no extension pipes, no skinned knuckles, no wire-brushing them up in kerosene to prepare for re-use, no torque settings to fasten them back in... much less swearing...![]()
I loved dzus on aircraft, I guess if burgy was aluminum, i'd have installed a fewGood points guys but I thought I'd throw the Dzus out there for discussion. In the applications I was used to they were a godsend, but I also see your points that I hadn't considered.
BAC should be below .25 when remoooving or installing too!When I was in active duty US Navy I worked on the Navy version of A7 jets. Those used Dzus fasteners all over for the panels I had to deal with. Then later in the Iowa Air National Guard I was also working on the Air Force version of A7 jets. Same setup on those for the avionics bay covers. And later it was F16 jets and again the same. The IR pod I worked on also used Dzus fasteners in places. I've seen those fasteners available for civilian use (not aviation versions) and they are not the same quality. Still, I have seen Dzus fasteners fail on military aircraft. The fastener would be fixed ASAP to prevent grounding a jet.
As to better tabs, some bikes have some tabs that are better and some not so much. Sometimes a bike will have sturdy tabs in some places and not in others. I think the Burgman is like that. Extra care taking in removing panels is needed to prevent breaking tabs. Part of that care is to not even attempt it when the air temp is 50 or lower. Warmer than 70 is even better if possible. So far with all the panels I've removed on my AK I've found the tabs are very sturdy. More so than other bikes I've worked on. But I really have not removed many panels on the AK yet so who knows what I'll find when I remove more.