Suzuki Burgman USA Forum banner

61 - 80 of 85 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Thanks for posting the picture. I was a little confused by the color id, but after doing some more research, I found that it is indeed a 100 ohm with a 5% tolorance as you said. The color in the picture must just be a little off. It turns out that the ignition switch with a resistor built into it is a common practice by Suzuki used as a theft deterrant. Common mostly on sport bikes of the late nineties and early 2000s.

And after all that, the one on mine comes in at about 96 ohms.

..........Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
So it looks like either CPS or ECU. My 37 cents contribution says change the CPS first as that is the cheapest albeit not in labour. You will kick yourself if a replacement ECU doesn't work. ECU's are generally reliable. I have owned over 50 bikes over the years and never had a CDI or ECU go but it does happen. Fixed a Moto Guzzi last year same problem you had it turned out to be the CPS.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Yeah, I thought about replacing the CKP because it seems like it should be cheaper - NOT! The Ckp is only sold as part of the generator only because the harness grommet through the case are molded together. The retail price is over $400.00. The ECU is about the same price, but it is no longer available from Suzuki. There are a few aftermarket generators available at a much more reasonable price though. Rock and a hard place.:crying

I've replaced a few CKPs that have failed through the years, but I've also replaced a couple CDIs. Specifically XS400 and XS650 modules that were known to have poor solder joints. I have never replaced and ECU on a fuel injected engine though.

.....Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #64
Welp, I guess that I have to do something, even if it's wrong. I've decided to replace the CKP with one of the aftermarket replacement generator and pickup. I just can't bring myself to pay the OEM price without knowing for sure that it will fix it. I thought that I'd pull the cover off while I was waiting. The manual says remove exhaust, disconnect the wires, remove 11 retaining bolts, remove cover. It's never that easy. The cover would come off about 3/8 of an inch, but would catch on the frame removable cross member. I had to remove the cross member bolts and lower the engine to get enough clearance. The cover is off, I'll report back when the new CKP shows up. Hope, hope, fingers crossed.

......Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
Welp, I guess that I have to do something, even if it's wrong. I've decided to replace the CKP with one of the aftermarket replacement generator and pickup. I just can't bring myself to pay the OEM price without knowing for sure that it will fix it. I thought that I'd pull the cover off while I was waiting. The manual says remove exhaust, disconnect the wires, remove 11 retaining bolts, remove cover. It's never that easy. The cover would come off about 3/8 of an inch, but would catch on the frame removable cross member. I had to remove the cross member bolts and lower the engine to get enough clearance. The cover is off, I'll report back when the new CKP shows up. Hope, hope, fingers crossed.

......Paul
Good man never give up fingers crossed. I would have done the same. If you can get a part number you can see what other bikes use the same unit on www.ronayers.com it allows you to see what bikes use it
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #66
The part number cross reference indicates that the list is rather short, only the 400 K7 to K9. The CKP is probably used on other models, but the CKP and generator are listed and sold as one part because the wiring for both are molded into one grommet where they exit the engine. We'll know in a few days.

......Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
The part number cross reference indicates that the list is rather short, only the 400 K7 to K9. The CKP is probably used on other models, but the CKP and generator are listed and sold as one part because the wiring for both are molded into one grommet where they exit the engine. We'll know in a few days.

......Paul
Any identifying numbers on the existing CKP? If you have it out be worth comparing to a few in an Auto place to see if you can match it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
your problem is similar to mine. I go over bumps and the bike cuts off or sometimes out of the blue will cut off. if I let it sit..sometimes minutes or hours it will turn on, but its unreliable to drive not knowing if and when it will get me stuck

seems your issue is the ckps or ckp as others noted. I dont know how difficult replacing the stator/bearing and removing the cover and the flywheel is but I dont see any video anywhere for it. im going to try and go tomorrow and start her up and take straight to home. about 30 minutes away. been stuck for 3 weeks now there.

shame there is no ckp sensor to just replace.my worry if the magnetic force for removal and getting the cover off as op said he needed to drop the engine which I have never done. im nervous to do the job but I have no choice as I have no money. ive already fixed a few issues like replacing the starter

it may just be the gap of the ckp isnt enough because it isnt seated properly. once running once not..seems odd.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
this is the ckp sensor
the flywheel has notches on it around the diameter. the ckp sends pulses. then it knows when to fire.

not sure why sometimes after a bump or bad road conditions, it cuts off though. Im not sure it bads but maybe the gaping/spacing is wrong. could be why the bike doesnt seem energetic as it was previously. it will turn on after time but the engine will cutoff after some time.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
I've not been able to find any other engine that uses the same sensor. I considered the air gap spacing to the flywheel tone ring, but there really is no adjustment unless I grind open the mounting holes, and besides mine seems to have failed while sitting. I noticed the "notches" on the tone wheel are all evenly spaced except for one. I'm guessing that maybe it indicates TDC. And, it's a big maybe, maybe that was the one spark that I got. I'm waiting for my replacement sensor/generator to arrive.

.......Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
fingers crossed a new stator/ckp unit will work for you. did you get an oem part? can you explain please regarding the lowering of the engine to get the cover off? never read anyone having to. very curious.

if mine is intermittent maybe it isnt dead but some other issue. will call a 'reputable' garage to see if he can analyze the issue. if he tells me any experiences he has with it and the price isnt too high, then ill let him do it. **** I wish I had some brain power from you guys on mechanics and electricity. fortunately I did learn a lot of things about the burgman because of being stuck much. I get white with fear of tackling these things and sit a lot on the throne. and I never knew anything about any previous scooters ive had besides just maintenance.

thank you
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #72
I have a Chinese one on order.....we'll see what happens. As far as the removal procedure, according to the manual, you shouldn't need to remove or lower the engine to remove the engine side cover, but the frame crossmember passes very closely to the top of the cover and on mine the weld joint was overly large and kept the cover from sliding off. After loosening the six different crossmember bolts it came off.

.......Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,468 Posts
The rotor is the magnet. It is used to energized the stator coils and generate the power used to run the scooter and charge the battery. The CKPS essentially senses the notches on the rotor. The double notch does act as a reference point for the ECU timing events.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
885 Posts
The starter itslef is similar. Windings inside and cover ( body) has magnets

Im curious if this issue can possibly be the timing chain?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
The starter itslef is similar. Windings inside and cover ( body) has magnets

Im curious if this issue can possibly be the timing chain?
S-Steel start a new thread on your issue you will get this one all confused. The resident Doctors will try and diagnose your new problem.👍😁
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #78
Any update on this at all? Have you resolved it?
No:cry: I still haven't figured it out. I've installed the new CKP and verified that is operating correctly and the signal is being received by the ecu. I purchased some 100 ohm resistors and wired one into the ignition circuit and verified that the ecu was receiving the signal. Using a Susuki SDS, I've been able to verify that the ecu is montoring the ho2, iap, tp, ect, iat, to, and stp sensors as well as performing the manual resistance/voltage tests.I have a few more things to try, but at this point, I'm pretty tired of fooling with the thing. Gasoline and a match may be the only option.

....Paul
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
514 Posts
Mmm that is frustrating. If all the electrical components test out has to be a connector or HT lead coil issue. Keep the gasoline and matches away for the moment you will get there. Try the old coil back again trim the HT lead for good ends. I know I am fishing here but you have done so much you can't give up yet. Not an electrical genius but is there a way of manually getting the coil to spark by touching the ground to the spade with power so you can prove all is well with the HT lead cap and coil then.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
46 Posts
Discussion Starter #80
Thanks for following along, it's been a long journey. The coil, lead, and wire have been tested and are working fine. I even replaced the coil, lead and wire with a known good one just to be sure. I just stumbled upon something today and should have an update soon........I hope.

....Paul
 
61 - 80 of 85 Posts
Top