[Hugo 2006]

This is my Burgman 400 year 2006 model.

I’m not going to do anything too exhausting. I'm going to clean this Cover, Muffler RR with 0000 grade wire wool. I'm not going to use anything else. No fluids, no cloths. Just the wool. I'm not saying do what I do. I’m saying lets see what happens.

I’m removing these bolts

got ya

Lets be honest. Up until this point I thought the part was metal. Its plastic

I am happy with the end result.

I think we can see whats happened here. (wire wool swirly scratches) my bad.

Oh look a green arrow. this way up. that will help when I put it back on. these cost £77.59 so i won’t be getting myself a new one. those numbers say 14790-15G00 >PA6-GF15<

back where it belongs. thats better. but I might try a different method for the Cover, Muffler(on the side there) or will I?

Thanks for having a look at what I got up too here. hope it was of some help.

Hugo

 

[Bluebottle]

Sorry Hugo, the spam catcher took a dislike to your post and delayed it until reviewed by moderator (On the plus side I think the filter learns each time- you can put computer programmer on your CV )


The later bikes get that fixing too, but at least you don’t have a dummy screw on yours to mess with your head.

 

[mikeyMarine]

curious about how rust may happen, keep us informed! please

 

[Bluebottle]

curious about how rust may happen

ABS PA plastic gets coated in copper and the galvanic chrome plated - very thinly.
The copper underneath oxidises so you get greenish corrosion products bursting through

edit: it’s PA, not ABS

 

[Bluestrom13]

Back in the day I used Sperex High Temperature aerosol on my troubled Silverwing 600 exhaust.
Silver/Grey on the shield, black on the silencer.
Halfords do similar.
Check if compatible with plastic.
------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
edit - check if compatible with copper and galvanic chrome plate.

 

[Hugo 2006]

ABS PA plastic gets coated in copper and the galvanic chrome plated - very thinly.
The copper underneath oxidises so you get greenish corrosion products bursting through

edit: it’s PA, not ABS

This explains the green. It also explains to me why the finish withstood the 0000 grade wire wool.

I've now done the side muffler cover in the same way as the end muffler cover with the 0000 grade wire wool. After I had completed the side muffler cover with the 0000 grade wire wool I finished it off with a coat of Autoglym Super Resin Polish to give it that extra shine and protection.

Here is a photo of the end result. The end cover has not had any Autoglym Super Resin Polish yet.

what an improvement on how it was before

 

[Bluebottle]

I tend to use a liquid polish to get rid of the foxing and something to seal it like a metal polish.
ACF50 is good on corrosion proofing pretty much anything metal but can’t say I’ve used it on that part.

—————————-
The number you noted - 14790-15G00 >PA6-GF15
14790-15G00 is the part number.

PA6-GF15 is the material = acromid

Boring bit:
PA means it’s a polyamide
6 refers to the specific monomer used (Caprolactum)
GF = glass fibre reinforced
15 is % of fibre content

It resists heat damage and very stiff, even at high temperature

Most plastic components will have a code identifying the material

 

[Hugo 2006]

I tend to use a liquid polish to get rid of the foxing and something to seal it like a metal polish.
ACF50 is good on corrosion proofing pretty much anything metal but can’t say I’ve used it on that part.

—————————-
The number you noted - 14790-15G00 >PA6-GF15
14790-15G00 is the part number.

PA6-GF15 is the material = acromid

Boring bit:
PA means it’s a polyamide
6 refers to the specific monomer used (Caprolactum)
GF = glass fibre reinforced
15 is % of fibre content

It resists heat damage and very stiff, even at high temperature

Most plastic components will have a code identifying the material

Thank you. Boring to some, but believe me, info like that gives me a buzz. I really appreciate it thanks.

 

[Bluebottle]

Some people dislike hearing from nerds in vehicle sciences so I thought I’d give you fair warning

 

[Charbroil]

ABS PA plastic gets coated in copper and the galvanic chrome plated - very thinly.
The copper underneath oxidises so you get greenish corrosion products bursting through

edit: it’s PA, not ABS

Technically it’s PA6, with a 15% glass fiber fill.
Straight PA , aka “nylon”, is not recommended for plating, such as chrome plating.

 

[DarisPakar]

Technically it’s PA6, with a 15% glass fiber fill.
Straight PA , aka “nylon”, is not recommended for plating, such as chrome plating.

Your such a nerd in vehicle sciences 😁

 

[Bluestrom13]

Technically it’s PA6, with a 15% glass fiber fill.

Your such a nerd in vehicle sciences

There's an echo in the thread..

PA6-GF15 is the material = acromid

Boring bit:
PA means it’s a polyamide
6 refers to the specific monomer used (Caprolactum)
GF = glass fibre reinforced
15 is % of fibre content

 

[Charbroil]

Pardon me…. Missed it

 

[Bluebottle]

Technically ...Straight PA , aka “nylon”, is not recommended for plating, such as chrome plating.

That doesn’t sound right.
Some PA is nylon others aren’t

PA and nylon are categories of polymer.
the initial ”straight” nylon would be PA66, or Nylon 66, not PA

PA (or nylon) is the prefix
The first number is the number of diamine carbons

edit: “nylon straight“ to “straight nylon”

 

[Bluebottle]

...PA6/Nylon 6 doesn’t get a second number because it’s monadic.
PA6,6/nylon 6,6 is dyadic - derived from both diamine and diacid so you get a diacid number.

There are other nylons with other numbers, they all follow the same naming convention

 

[JRoss]

🤯

 

[Dave_J]

This is like hearing a forgien language and not understanding anything until they say Pizza or Beer.

 

[zrx212]

Several guys over at SW600 have done the vinyl wrap on the muffler shield and end cap with good results, carbon fiber print looks good. You can mix colors or do inlays, etc. Just sand rough spots smooth, buy extra material to practice and/or FUA (fudge up allowance).