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Discussion Starter #1
The bike started just fine this morning I traveled to my gate turned it off to unlock the gate got back on tried to start it...it wouldnt start.

Suspected the battery so hooked up my optimate which told me the battery was fine.

Came home from work this evening took it off the side stand turned the key the dashboard lit up as normal (no error messages) I depressed the brake lever hit the starter switch heard a click then nothing the dash then faded.

I turned the key to off position waited a while then turned it back on, nothing on the dashboard lit up.

Disconnected the battery terminals, reconnected them turned the key this time the dash lit up pressed the starter switch, again heard a click then nothing.

Any ideas guys could it be the starter switch or the starter motor thats at fault???
 

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I suspect you have a bad battery assuming all connections are clean and tight. Since you have an 03, was the ignition switch recall done? You need to do a load test to be certain the battery not the culprit.
 

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I'd suspect the battery too based on the dash going out after pressing the starter button but you can hook up either a test light or voltmeter across the battery had see what they show when you hit the starter button. If the test light goes dim or voltage drops below 10.5-11 volts it need a battery.

If the voltmeter stays above that or the test light stays bright then it could be the switch, starter, or relay.
 

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I’m having a similar problem on my ‘07/650. It’s happened several times, that when I turn the key to the on position, the dash flickers and goes blank. I then return the key to the off position, giggle it a bit and try again. The dash comes on and I can start the bike. I was thinking that because so much is engaged by the ignition switch that my switch might be mechanically going bad (i.e. a bad contact point. ) Should add that I replaced the battery six months ago.
 

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Agree sounds like battery to me. :thumbup:
 

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Sounds like a wonky ignition switch to me (the end piece with the electrical contacts) has been a recall item in the past.
 

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Mine had the same problem, back in Aug 2012. so I played with the ignition switch go slow while turning the key, if your lights come on, STOP at that point, if you go any further then the lights will off again, if this happens start from the beginning. It should start my switch had to be replaced, 1 wk for repairs, waiting for the part.
 

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The only real test for your bike battery is a tong test (which tests it under a resistive load). However, you can easily eliminate things by jumpering from a known good car battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Fingers crossed its looking like the battery is the problem.I took it to work today and the mechanic ran a series of tests on it and found a problem with it releasing its charge.

I've ordered a new one which should be here tomorrow,I'll let you know the results.

I really didnt expect so many replies, thanx guys if its not the battery you've given me food for thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
peelbrow said:
The only real test for your bike battery is a tong test (which tests it under a resistive load). However, you can easily eliminate things by jumpering from a known good car battery.
Hey peelbrow just noticed your from my neck of the woods,if your ever round these parts feel free to drop round for a snifty :thumbup:
 

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[quote Hey peelbrow just noticed your from my neck of the woods,if your ever round these parts feel free to drop round for a snifty :thumbup:[/quote]

Hi there! I've sent you a PM. :thumbup:
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It was the battery that was the cause the new one came today hooked it up and she started first time :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanx for all the advice guys :cheers: :cheers:
 

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bilbo674 said:
It was the battery that was the cause the new one came today hooked it up and she started first time :thumbup: :thumbup:

Thanx for all the advice guys :cheers: :cheers:
Watch it for a week. I would not go on a long trip till time proves it was the battery.
 

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Do yourself a favor and verify that it charges the battery.

There are many stories here about people replacing a flat battery only to find that a defect in the charging system caused the battery to go flat.
 

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Bilbo, if you have a volt ohm meter (VOM) its a quick test. With the bike at an idle you should have over 13 Volts DC and at about 2500 RPM over 14 volts DC. Over 75% of Burgman riders dont have a VOM, I'd bet......
 

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Dave_J said:
Bilbo, if you have a volt ohm meter (VOM) its a quick test. With the bike at an idle you should have over 13 Volts DC and at about 2500 RPM over 14 volts DC. Over 75% of Burgman riders dont have a VOM, I'd bet......

I don't have a VOM, so I guess I'll just have to make do with my DMM (Digital Multi-Meter). :lol: :lol:
 
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