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OK, power goes from the Stator to the Volatge regulator.
Then from there it is over to the battery on a 10 Gauge Red wire.
From the battery it goes up to the ECM on a second 10 Gauge Red wire.

Those two wires are UNDER the BATTERY TRAY and have a connector for each UNDER the battery. There is a 3rd 10 Gauge Black wire and connector under there too.

The connectors are well known to corrode. You have to remove the battery and its tray box to get to the 3 connectors.

If those 3 connectors under the battery corrode, it will manifest an issue exactly like what 2talltoo is having.

This is a troubleshooting step that can not be hurried. You must go step by step from one point to another and use the wiring diagram as a guide. It requires a good Volt/Ohm Meter (VOM). With a VOM you check for voltage drops at each connector and fuse.
Colorado is a bit too far for me to ride over and help. But I bet there is a local community college Automotive Technologies student that would be glad to receive a Pizza/Beer donation of $25-$50 to help.
 

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So why Dave is everything working except for the instrument panel fed from the same fuse as the underseat light (we think) the one that we have not got an answer as to wether it's working or not. I would have thought that the main battery wiring would have affected more than just the instrument panel, correct me if I'm wrong.
 

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If I were trouble shooting this the first thing I would do is follow the under seat light wire down to the plug and unplug it. That would eliminate it as the possible source of your problem. You should be able to do this without removing the seat. If the wire is pushed to far down then you might have to remove the battery box. Then I would replace the signal fuse with a new one just to make sure I had a good fuse in that location. Then I would turn on the key to see if the dash display cycles and comes on. If so then it should crank.
 

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Buffalo, if it doesn't come on with a new fuse? does that supply from the fuse run straight to the instrument pod or does it run somewhere else, would it go anywhere near the seat where it could possibly get trapped /break. Does it stop off on it's way to the dash to supply that underseat light via the seat switch. Could there possibly be a connecter down there that has come apart.
 

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Hard to say, you can't actually see the wires as they are bundled in the wiring harness. Near as I can tell the wire goes from the fuse then branches as it passes each thing it feeds. The seat light is probably one of the last things on the wire. Branch wires coming out of the harness end in plugs that the individual components plug into. One of those plugs is the one for the seat light.
 

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CrashBikeDummy said:
Colorado is a bit too far for me to ride over and help. But I bet there is a local community college Automotive Technologies student that would be glad to receive a Pizza/Beer donation of $25-$50 to help.
Just not that nasty brown stuff DaveJ drinks, get the good 6 dollar a case kind.
 

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Your symptoms remind me of the time I switched the terminals on top of the relay that sits right above the positive battery terminal. the screw on the right goes directly to the battery, the screw on the left goes to the starter. Something you did needs to undone. I don't know how your buddy was able to ride it if a wire was on backward, but a loose connection would be possible.
 

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I have not seen any mention of the rectifier being bad, I went through a couple on my 07. Not enough juice was making it to the computer to function correctly, so some things worked and others did not. Also the battery did not charge.
 

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Discussion Starter #52
Thanks everyone, I just got back from a camping trip and will work on my lovely new scoot on Monday. I'll keep you posted and let you know if there is a box of bolts and skeleton of a low mileage scooter for sale in Denver area.
 

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I just had an experience that was really similar to yours. My wife and I went on a short ride we stopped to look at the map, and when I went to start all I got was a click when I press the starter button. No amount of jiggling brake levers key switches or kickstand would make a difference. I had an emergency battery jumper pack and as soon as I connected it to the battery terminals it fired right up. This morning when I checked the voltage in the battery with my DVM I saw the voltage fluctuating from 10 to 12 volts. It would climb up then drop back. I've never seen that happen so I'm declaring this battery bad and replacing it.
 

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While you have the battery out check the three electrical connectors under the battery tray for corrosion. If you find corrosion put your battery on a charger while cleaning and applying dielectric grease to electrical connectors. When battery is showing proper charge reassemble and test,

If you still have troubles see if your parts store can beat this price :

 

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Discussion Starter #55
Thanks DarisP I have a fully charged battery and connections are good. All fusses are good I pulled the front end off. Did find a bad switch that the spring was broken on the left brake. It is a sealed unit must be different than Ledude's bike he talked of cleaning the contacts. Ordered switch and the B sits and waits.
 

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Either brake should allow the bike to start. You could connect the wires to see if the bike starts but if your brake lights come on with the other brake the dud brake switch is not the issue
 

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Thanks DarisP I have a fully charged battery and connections are good. All fusses are good I pulled the front end off. Did find a bad switch that the spring was broken on the left brake. It is a sealed unit must be different than Ledude's bike he talked of cleaning the contacts. Ordered switch and the B sits and waits.
I’m glad your making progress ....but my last blurb was directed to bcoil he too is suffering the same fate and I wanted to give him a cleaned up version to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #58
Parts are hard to come by in a timely fashion these days. I did get a new rectifier put in this morning and that is not the problem. Le Dude and another member had reported this part as a weak link for my year Burg. I turn the key on and have lights oil and abs lights and a blank instrument screen. All fuses on the entire bike are good. I assume the seat switch is for the trunk light only? I am getting to know my new bike intimately but have not riden to know if we are a match. Your thoughts and suggestions are always appreciated.

I am not in Sturgis because some things you see there can never be erased from our memory. That and a pandemic. It would be fun to ride in with a group of scooters. We will need a fearless leader next year when it's safe. I'm but a follower. Thanks again, 2 darn tall too.
 

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Have you physically checked the fuses as in using a volt meter. Had many a fuse look good only to be dud. Have you checked the fuse locations power supply especially the instrumrets all have 12v. If you have 12v in and fuses are good the prioblem may be the instruments circuit board. You just need to be methodical
 

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I can't understand why you are fitting a rectifier. The blank screen is your problem. Concentrate on getting the screen working before you waste more money. Re-check the supply to and from the signal fuse.
 
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