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I have a 2003 400. I bought it last year and it has 4000 miles on it. So I thought it is time to change all the fluids. Found the thread that showed me the correct final drive oil is 10w40. Great so far. Flushed out the anti, purged the air out everything is fine. Removed the brake M/C covers sucked out the old fluid with my brake fluid tester, added nice new fluid, opened the bleeder on the rear caliper, it dripped out a cup then I pumped out a cup. then I pumped the brake up and purged all the little air bubbles. Great rear brakes no problem. put cover back on M/C. Moved to front caliper, hey there are 2 bleeders? Strange but must be a reason. Opened both bleeders and guess what? You will have to guess because If any one knows the answer to the problem that is about to take place you never put it in type, or I just never saw it. The bottom bleeder will not even drip one drop. The top bleeder drips out a cup and I decide I will pump the M/C to get the bottom bleeder flowing. Well nothing comes out the bottom. The top bleeder is flowing nicely. I dig out me vacuum bleeder Mighty Vac, and hook it to the bottom bleeder. Nothing comes out. Now I am confused so I break the banjo bolt free, and find yes there was fluid in the lower part of the caliper. I tighten the banjo bolt and can not vacuum even one drop from the lower bleeder. So I lock every thing down and fill everything up to find i do not have any brakes. I come to the forum and learn nothing except speed bleeders work. ( I made these up 30 years ago with a hose and one way check valves to self bleed brakes) Ok I make up a set and attach to the 3 bleeders. Yes they fixed the problem. But I had to know what failed on my first attempt. I started over and then discovered what had happened. It had nothing to do with my bleeding skills. It had everything to do with.....THE FACT THE LOWER HALF OF THE FRONT CALIPER IS CONNECTED TO THE REAR BRAKE, NOT THE FRONT. Why didn't anyone ever mention this? It would have saved me hours. I must say I now must have the cleanest brake fluid in the world. How do you bleed the front caliper? Simple use the top bleeder only. How do you bleed the rear brakes? Open the lower bleeder on the front caliper and the bleeder on the rear caliper. Simple, easy, no air, done in 10 minutes. You can thank me for that hour I just saved you, and the 15.00 for the speed bleeders. TQ
 

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I'm certainly no mechanic, but I recently bleed my brakes and on my 07 model 400, the brakes are not linked and thus, no cross bleeding. One leaver, one brake. That's it.

Given the few number of 06 and earlier 400 models on the road, I'm guessing there wasn't a lot of info on the subject.

Sorry for your frustration.
 

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Yes the front caliper is actually two calipers built in one unit. The upper pistons and pads are the main front brakes operated by the right lever and the lower pistons/pads are linked to the rear and operate with the left lever.

BTW the linked front do not engage as fully as the main ones do. I have not found a Suzuki source for the ratio but it is probably 30% or so with the rear. Also the front does not seem to engage until you squeeze down a fair amount on the left lever, very useful for only using the rear in parking lots and such.
 

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I am having a problem right now where the pressing left lever do not engage any break force at all. Bought the brake kit and change the bits in the brake pump and still the same no brake force. Any ideas what could be the problem? Is it the brake combo point at the behind the headlights? I thinking of delinking from the combo and making the left a standalone rear brake. any problems if I go this way?
 

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I am having a problem right now where the pressing left lever do not engage any break force at all. Bought the brake kit and change the bits in the brake pump and still the same no brake force. Any ideas what could be the problem? Is it the brake combo point at the behind the headlights? I thinking of delinking from the combo and making the left a standalone rear brake. any problems if I go this way?
The point where the brake link is done is item 4 on this fiche. It is bolted to the front forks. There is a slim chance that your problem might be in that valve. The flex line marked 6 is the one that goes down to the front caliper. The hard line marked 9 is the one that goes to the rear caliper

If I were going to unlink the brakes I think I would replumb things so that the right hand lever worked both pistons on the front caliper.
 

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For a 2003 is the correct final drive oil 10/40? I know it is for the later ones but thought it was different for earlier!
 

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Yes, Its been mentioned, it's in a post here or there. Not too easy to find though. I discovered it while searching on how to do my brakes. To bleed the front cylinder on the "rear" side, I just used the rear bleeder screw, but pumped the front brake handle.
 

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Is bleeding only the top screw then the only way to bleed the front brake caliper?
 

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The point where the brake link is done is item 4 on this fiche. It is bolted to the front forks. There is a slim chance that your problem might be in that valve. The flex line marked 6 is the one that goes down to the front caliper. The hard line marked 9 is the one that goes to the rear caliper

If I were going to unlink the brakes I think I would replumb things so that the right hand lever worked both pistons on the front caliper.
I posted this morning then went off to do some other stuff. Just got back to this and noticed I failed to add the link to the fiche I was referring too. http://www.babbittsonline.com/oemparts/a/suz/508c0605f870020498e369c4/rear-brake-hose
 

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Yes, Its been mentioned, it's in a post here or there. Not too easy to find though. I discovered it while searching on how to do my brakes. To bleed the front cylinder on the "rear" side, I just used the rear bleeder screw, but pumped the front brake handle.
Is bleeding only the top screw then the only way to bleed the front brake caliper?
When I bleed the linked brakes on my 400 I bleed the rear caliper first then the linked portion of the front brake. There are two bleeder valves on the front caliper. The top one on the larger piston is the one that you open to bleed the right brake lever system. The bottom one on the smaller piston is the one you open to bleed the linked left brake lever system. You have to pump the left brake lever to properly bleed this portion of the linked brake system not the right brake lever.

Bleeding the linked system is like bleeding the brakes on a car that all work off of one master cylinder. You bleed the one furthest from the master cylinder first and the one nearest to it last which is why you bleed the back first then the front.
 

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Thanks....how does the parking brake leverage on the combo brake system? Does it come into the equation when bleeding the combo brakes?
 

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I've found that when I bleed the rear caliper I get better results if I set the parking brake first. The only reasoning I can come up for this is that there are some internal passages inside the rear caliper that activate the parking brake adjuster when you apply the parking brake. My conjecture is that setting the parking brake opens up these passages and allows any air trapped in them to escape.
 

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When I bleed the linked brakes on my 400 I bleed the rear caliper first then the linked portion of the front brake. There are two bleeder valves on the front caliper. The top one on the larger piston is the one that you open to bleed the right brake lever system. The bottom one on the smaller piston is the one you open to bleed the linked left brake lever system. You have to pump the left brake lever to properly bleed this portion of the linked brake system not the right brake lever.

Yes, this is exactly how I did it. In much better detail ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #16
For a 2003 is the correct final drive oil 10/40? I know it is for the later ones but thought it was different for earlier!
I do not know where I found it on this forum, but Suzuki sent the 03-04 Burg 400 owners new pages for there owners manuals showing the correct oil for the final drive is 10-40. You can print the PDF file if you find it.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
BTW the linked front do not engage as fully as the main ones do. I have not found a Suzuki source for the ratio but it is probably 30% or so with the rear. Also the front does not seem to engage until you squeeze down a fair amount on the left lever, very useful for only using the rear in parking lots and such.

Once I figured this system out I loved it. What I noticed was if you would over brake the front brake by snatching a big handful with the front lever, you would be happy when the front suspension did not bottom out and your front wheel traction did not drop to less than 1/2 of normal in a split second of over braking. Instead you get a very modest front brake that becomes aggressive when you start to apply the rear. Very smart setup and great for wet or gravel roads.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Is bleeding only the top screw then the only way to bleed the front brake caliper?
Yes is your answer. If you are asking is the top bleeder the only outlet for the fluid in the front M/Cylinder. To bleed the entire front caliper you would need to bleed both, which would mean using bother front and rear m/c.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I've found that when I bleed the rear caliper I get better results if I set the parking brake first. The only reasoning I can come up for this is that there are some internal passages inside the rear caliper that activate the parking brake adjuster when you apply the parking brake. My conjecture is that setting the parking brake opens up these passages and allows any air trapped in them to escape.
I can never remember they have parking brakes.
 
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