[csachs1]

If tried a bunch of places and couldn't seem to find the 90w gear oil. I've seen some that saw 80-90 or 85-90 but not the 90w called for in the manual.

Is it available or do I just need to use one of the others, thanks!

 

[Timothy Ma]

Use a good gear oil 80W-90

You can use any good quality 80W-90 gear oil. Go for Quaker, Valvoline or Castrol and you'll be covered. I think the multigrade, if you can call this multigrade, is better especially when the temperature gets colder. I don't think I've ever seen a 90W gear oil. Since the oil is only about 300 mLs (check for sure) even going to full synthetic would work very well.

 

[lilleyen]

Oil types

I've been told by many that we should break in the engines before going to synthetic oils. (15000 or so Kms)
I'm assuming this is so the rings can seat and the cylinder walls get scored/honed to fit the pistons etc.
Seems logical to me.

I'm curious.
Can we put synthetic oils in our final drive right away?
i.e. no break in required.

Do synthetic oils come in 80-90 as mentioned above?

Better wear charactersistics/performance?
Certainly would be better in really cold weather I assume.

How about the other places on the scoot, synthetic or regular lubes?

 

[pauljo]

I went to synthetic in all 3 oil compartments at 4000 miles. I use Silkolene products. It is expensive stuff, but I get a special break on it due to my maintenance agreement. They make an 80-90 wt synthetic gear oil. I would not use synthetic anywhere in the 650 until it has at least 3000 miles on it. You do want to make sure everything has worn in properly. That is more crucial with the engine than with the transmission or final drive, but there is no good reason to move to a synthetic any earlier in the drivetrain. With my motorcycle, synthetic oil made a big difference in the smoothness of shifting the manual transmission. With the scooter, you will feel no difference.

 

[ted clement]

I like synthetics and use it on my 2cars, 1truck, 2 tractors and scoot. Amsoil is my favorite and I pay $20 a year for a "preferred customer" card that allows me to buy at a discount. I have a dealer nearby that stocks about everthing so I don't have to order it...which would add too much to the costs. Unless you use a lot its not worth becoming a preferred dealer and its best to pay the retail price. Actually I probably break even, but I get monthly news letters and information on the oil industry which I like.

An example of prices: Motorcycle specific Amsoil in 10-40 costs me $4.55 or 5.85 retail. 80-90w gear oil is 5.85 or 7.65. They also have a 75w-90 which might be good for cold climates. They sell a lot of oil filters and probably have one for the Lardy 650. I use these on my small airplane.

They have a web page; Amsoil.com if you want to find a dealer in your area.

 

[Jim]

I also use 80-90 Synthetic in the final drive, and Mobil one in the engine and Trans., most automotive stores have it. It seems quiter and works less.
Just remeber, when you fill it (on the centerstand and a level surface), turn the wheel by hand a few times, and check the level again. You will need to add a bit more. It won't over fill because the oil level hole will drain off the excess.

I do the same for the engine and trans. I run it a bit (then wait about 2-3 min. after to allow for the fluids to settle) and find the level changes.

 

[csachs1]

good tips, thanks.

Also do any of you fill the transmission with the lower hole that is used for the fill indicator rather than removeing the panel and using the recommended fill hole?

 

[Jim]

Yup, I never have removed the panel. I use an oil can and squirt it in through the oil level plug.