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Changing perfectly good bearings is a bad idea in my book, because every time you pull out the old and push in the new, the seating in the wheel wears a bit, and eventually the fit becomes to loose and the outer races will start to rotate in the wheels.

If the bearings really need to be changed that often, you are doing something wrong, pressure washing to near the bearings and/or deforming the bearings during installation.
 

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38,000 miles on the original bearings.
 

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whiteknuckler said:
Is it just me are these new SKF bearings making my Burgman 650 ultra quiet in motion and I feel like I have a tail wind (push)?
When the orignal set of front bearings failed on my 2003 I replaced them with SKF's from Carquest auto parts store. They were much quieter than the ones that were failing. :D That was at 15K miles. Then the front one failed agian and the rear was getting more noiser so I bought the next set, front and rear from Applied.com for a lot less. I got Koyo brand. They were "Off Shore" but guess what, so is 90% of the whole bike. The seat strut is made in USA. :D Bothe sets made my 03 ride super quiet.

From back then.

ME said:
At 49,700ish miles I just had a rear bearing start to grind so I did some shopping around for two USA made SKF 6204 2RS. WOW what a price difference. Carquest wanted $26.90 each and NAPA was $23.86 each. I found a bearing supply house called Applied Inc ( http://www.applied.com/ ) that had USA SKF's for $9.22 each. I opted for two Japan Koyo's at $6.33 each. DaveJ
 

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sO WITH 44500 MILES ON THE BURG 650 (2005) im getting a heavt whirrling sound from the front area at 60 mph. It reduces a bit as I go faster and also when doing a curve turn on the hwy at same 60 mph speed. The tires have low miles and are inflated correctly. Could this be a front wheel bearing problem? Thanks for any help! Acerken in N.C.
 

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acerken said:
sO WITH 44500 MILES ON THE BURG 650 (2005) im getting a heavt whirrling sound from the front area at 60 mph. It reduces a bit as I go faster and also when doing a curve turn on the hwy at same 60 mph speed. The tires have low miles and are inflated correctly. Could this be a front wheel bearing problem? Thanks for any help! Acerken in N.C.
Sounds just like it.

Read thru this topic above and get the part numbers for the two bearings and seals. If you do a search in your area for Applied Bearings you'll find 5 in N.C. They can get real good bearings for much less than the dealer. Just make sure that you ask for dual sealed. You do not need any special high speed ones so save some money there. And OFF SHORE ones work great. Your bike is OFF SHORE made.
 

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I dont know how many of you know about Nachi (japanese) bearings. They are pretty hard to beat, but they dont always make the size you want, so the easy way would be to take your old bearings into them so they can measure and match, or do this yourself and call them. Little story for you.......... i meet an engineer who was in charge of maintaining the water pumps for a towns water supply, he used to replace the water pump bearings every year (some times not even lasting a year) with well known common brands you all would know like skf nsf timkin etc, the longest any bearing would last is 2yrs, then he replaced the bearings with nachi deep groove bearings and 12yrs later they are still going and no odd sounds or play. http://www.nachi.com
 

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During my travel over last few week, I had dinner with old friend who have work about 30 year with SKF bearing company, he suggest when we replace burgie wheel bearing use 6203 RSH & 6204 RSH Explorer serie bearing , these better than 2RS1 serie as have better grease that less affected by water or wash out by water and better seal as RSH Explorer have double lip seal keep dust/dirt water out.

He believe these probably last life of bike if mounted correctly as RSH version engineer with motorcycle use in mind.

Hope this help many BUSA member with replacement wheel bearing.

Here is info:

http://www.skf.com/group/system/SearchR ... 3+explorer
 

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The Problem is a LOT of counterfeit bearing's are out there on the market.

SKF had a right up on it to make sure when you buy any brand of quality bearings to make sure you buy from a reputable source.

As you may think you are buying SKF, Timkin, or any other brand name.

But you maybe getting a Chinese, India, manufactured counterfeit, or worse, that has soft parts instead of hardened, high precision parts you expect.

SKF went on to say that the counterfeit bearings were so good, that even they could not tell the difference by looking at them.

So I decided not to buy from Slease bay, and to go to a bearing house like Motion ind.
 

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When I first bought bearings from Applied INC, the tech behind the counter asked me if I wanted on shore or off shore. I asked him to explain. He said "Some offshore manufactures make clone sub-standard copys. We do not sell that crap. All our offshore bearings are top quality from true manufactures." So I went with the Japanese Ones I have listed way above on like page 2 of this thread. Never had anymore problems. I ran them from 20,000 miles to 54,000 and then put that rear wheel (with my Potenza DARKSIDE tire) on for another 10,000 miles.
 

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How much were your bearings? My new front bearings from the dealer were $20 apiece.

I picked up an extra rim, so it makes it easier getting tires changed and not giving up the bike...
 

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Finally got around to wrapping up the wheel bearing issue on my 2003 650.

I went with the SKF electric motor grade bearings,..6204 2RSJEM's on the rear and 6203 2RSJEM's on the front. I also put some new seals on,..although they're purpose is little more than cosmetic now that I have double sealed bearings on the wheels.

The electric motor grade SKF bearings are rated to 11,000 RPM, have waterproof grease, and are engineered to run exceptionally quiet.

There's other good bearings out there, but in my opinion, the double sealed SKF electric motor bearings are more than good enough to allow you to forget about any wheel bearing troubles for the life of your bike.
 

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Looks like I will finally be changing the rear wheel bearings on my 07 650. I was on a ride today when I noticed the rear of the bike did not feel exactly right. Stopped and checked the rear tire and it was fine. Put the bike up on the centerstand and found there was a little bit of side to side play in the wheel. It still turned smoothly and didn't make any noise but I suspect one or both wheel bearings is going south. Road it the remaining 60 miles of the ride with no problems. Parked it on the lift when I got home. I'll get out in the next few days and pull the rear wheel off to check the bearings. I've got 102,443 miles on it now.
 

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Pulled the wheel off today. Left bearing was still in usable condition but the right one was shot. The seal on the outside had come out and the grease was mostly gone. Bearings and/or races were worn so much that when I went to pull it the interrace pulled out leaving the outer race stuck in the wheel. After fiddling with it most of the day I decided I needed a different tool to get the race out. Looks like a pilot bearing puller should work but could not find anyone locally that had one big enough for any kind of reasonable price. Found one on Amazon for $18.25 that will expand out to 2 inches so ordered it. Will now have to wait until it comes in before proceeding.
 

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The job is always easier when you have the right tool. With the pilot bearing puller I had the stuck race out in no time at all. If you have a bearing come apart when you try to remove it I can recommend this as a good method to get the remaining race out. The puller I bought was the Tekton 5740 3-jaw pilot bearing puller.

Now I'm going to give the wheel a real good cleaning and then start putting it back together. Can't remount the wheel just yet though because I could not find a local source for the dust seals. Ended up having to order them from Suzuki and they will not be in until Mon or Tues. I found the bearings at my local NAPA Auto Parts for less than 1/2 what Suzuki wants for them.
 

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I'd say 100k+ miles on a set of wheel bearings isn't bad ;)
 

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Rear seal question

This might be a candidate for "Sticky message" since it gets asked.

The Wheel bearings for the Burgman 650 are:

Rear 6204-2RS
Front 6203-2RS

Front seals:

1 22 x 40 x 7 for the left side
1 24 x 40 x 7 for the right side

Rear seal:

1 28 x 47 x 7 for the right side
Am I missing something?

This post shows a rear seal Dim as 28x47x7 but if you do a search for a 6204 seal it shows a dim of 20x47x14.

Is there that much difference between an 04 and 07 650.

So which is it?

d-20mm D-47mm B1-14mm
 

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Well, last night on on the way home my front wheel was chattering a bit. I ordered 2 new bearings and was on the way to pick them up and front wheel was skidding so I made it the two blocks back home. Two 6203 FF for the front of a Burgman 650. At Orileys they are $6.95 each and are listed as 203FF. Got to take the cage to work. An added 1 hour each way. :rolleyes:
 
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