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Re: Wheel bearings and seals` another source

Just received a wheel bearing and seal set from CBRbearing.com for my 650. I carry them with me on long road trips.
I've been getting bearings from them for years for my ST1100's and SWing, always the right bearing the first time.
Just tell Charlie what bike you have...he knows what it takes.

The fronts were NSK 6203VVC3E NS7S made in Japan
The rears were NSK 6204VVC3 NS7S "

They were $56 + $8

Whitster
 

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Nope. Later models don't seem to have this problem. I'm still running the original bearings in my 07 and it has 58,000+ miles on it now.
 

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Craig,

I respectfully - because I enjoy reading your posts, and consider you a Burger expert - beg to differ on this one. See my post within a thread here: http://burgmanusa.com/forums/viewtopic. ... 95#p429427 .

Executive summary: I have an '07, had less than 30,000 miles on it at the time (earlier this year), never power-washed it (or used water on it, at all, for that matter, outside of riding in the rain), and had a rear bearing go. Now, there's always the possibility that a shop managed to damage the bearing during a tire change - I've used (seemingly competent) shops, an independent one and a Suzuki dealer - so I guess I'll never know.

In order not to get stuck again for two to three extra days in the middle of a trip from now on, I've since ordered, received, and carry front and rear All Balls sets.
 

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As the bearings are available at most auto parts stores, I'm not to worried about getting stuck somewhere for several days. My experience is not unique, I don't know of anyone in my local Burgman riding group of about a dozen riders that has had a wheel bearing go bad and there are a number that have 40,000+ miles on their bikes and a couple like me that have 50,000+. I just changed my rear tire last week and I checked the rear bearings when I had the wheel off. They are just as smooth and tight as they were the first time I pulled the wheel somewhere around June of 07.
 

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I have just removed my rear wheel bearings as I suspected them to be shot, imagine my surprise therefore to find that they are as good as the day they were installed at the factory still tightly packed with grease but as I have spent the money on a new set of SKF's (WHICH SHOULD ARRIVE SOON) I have decided to install the new ones. My bike is a 2008 UK model with 5600 miles only. I was surprised to find that the bearings were only dust proofed on one side.

Now to try to find out what else could be causing the horrendous squeak coming from the area of the rear wheel. :banghead:


 

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I used these guys for my bearings . . . http://www.performancebearing.com/

They were custom made in a few days and shipped quickly! :thumbup:

I chose ceramic balls with no cage, just spacers, double sealed.
 

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herbeckg said:
Using ceramic bearing in your wheels seems like overkill and only for people with to much money.
Perhaps, unless you never have to revisit them again for the life of the bike.
 

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I tend to agree. We bought a Yoshi ceramic knife a couple years ago and it is still razor sharp after daily usage for 2 years.
 

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I am in the market for new bearings for my 2003 650 and have been doing a lot of reading online, both here and on other forums, and also browsing manufacturer websites and news articles. I became very concerned about several articles mentioning the burgeoning problem with counterfeit bearings flooding the markets. Buying a set of bearings to insure my safe riding, then having them be fakes and give out on me at 60+ MPH is not my idea of a good time. Thankfully, I have found a SKF AUTHORIZED Distributor in my area that will sell them to me. They are also $10 a bearing cheaper than the NAPA store I checked with for the rear bearings. Parts store was asking $26+ per bearing, distibutor is asking $15.33. I pick them up Monday. I would recommend that anyone looking to buy bearings for their Burgie, try to find an authorized distibutor for the brand of bearing they are looking to buy to save a few $$, and to be assured that you are actually buying what you think you are. Better safe than an ornament on a guardrail. Just my 2 cents worth. :D

Rick.
 

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Well about to remove and replace my front and rear bearings on my 07 650

Skf bearings: check

Oem seals: check

I have the blind hole bearing puller (loaner)

NOW-just try to find a 12 mm hex socket anywhere in town-they all stop at 10mm (online or snap-on dist. next)

Doing the rear first as I have the tools now (front-need that illusive 12 mm hex)

Now what have you all used to seat the new bearing?

I hear there is the socket method and I have tried to put together Le Dudes bearing seater thing a ma jig but the compression pvc does not look like it will work (will try)

Thanks in advance

Steve
 

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ErikDK said:
I bought a set of oil plug removal sockets, including a 17mm hex.


6 sockets HEX: 8, 9, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17MM
9 sockets SQUARE: 7, 8, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14MM, 5 / 16 ", 3 / 8".
1 T-handle with slide
1 10MM female square
1 triangle socket

I had some of the hexes beforehand, but not the 12 and 17 mm for the Burgman.
The squares and the triangle will probably be useful one day, if not for me, then for my son.
 

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Knuckler, I went through the same thing a couple of weeks back when I put new SKF bearings, new OEM seals, and new front and rear Shinkos on my Burgie. I had a real tough time finding a 12MM for the front. Sears, (full sized store), carried a 12MM allen wrench style that I picked up for about $10 in case I didn't find anything better,(gonna return that on Monday). I found a nice little kit that fit a 1/2" rachet (so I could torque it back to specs), that included a 12mm and a 17mm hex head socket along with 4 or five other smaller sizes. I found it at Harbor Freight for about $13, it would be less if you get one of their 20% off coupons. Worked great, and I gave the kit to my brother as he let me work in his shop, and it will be there next time I need it anyways. Scoot seems to move/roll around easier since the bearing change, even though the old bearings still had grease and looked pretty good. I feel a lot more secure knowing I have new double sealed bearings on it. Got a couple of hundred miles on the new Shinko tires, and so far I am liking them a lot. Like LeDude says, they are a lot quiter than the OEM tires, and handle very well. Good luck finding the size you need and with the bearing replacement.

Rick.
 

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Well I found a 12 mm hex bit socket at a mom and pop specialty tool store today via a phone call

$20.00 :shock:

Its a 1/2 inch drive

I heard of all the options (HF and the rest)

I have an addaptor from 3/8th to 1/2 if needed

Just got tried of looking and I want to get this job over with by the weekend
 

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I just changed my front wheel bearings and seals today... My neighbor Will helped me as I was a bit confused... the pack I bought had 3 seals in it... We took our time but had it all done and road tested in under 2 hours plus cleaned the front wheel...
The little howl is gone... The bearings that were in there were getting a bit dry but all is good...
Thanks to LeDude for the tutorials on front wheel removal and bearing removal... :cheers:
 

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Well I have been working on my front and rear bearings for about a week on my 07 650 (ok I have been slacking for a few days)

I got my new bearings at a Applied parts house

I went in and asked for two SKF 6203 2RS (front) and two 6404 2RS (rear) and walked out

When I got home I noticed after the 2RS of the bearing package it added JEM (example 6204 2RSJEM)

Well I talked with SKF on Monday, both there industrial and automative dept.

I gave them the Suzuki part numbers and they came back that I needed a SKF 6204 2RSJ (rear) and 6203 2RSJ (front)

Now after talking to both SKF depts. and Applied I find out that the EM at the end stands for electric motor

They say it is a quieter bearing with water resistant grease and rated at 11,000 rpm's

I told them all it will be used in a motorcycle wheel application

They all came back saying it's a little over kill and it will be fine

Now after that was settled let's get back to bearing install

Just an FYI is to remember to measure in your own way before removing the bearings to measure the distance from the stock bearing to the top of the wheel bearing housing and put the new bearing in at the same distance

The service manual for the front bearings shows a "clearance" between the bearing and the bottom of the wheel bearing housing and no mention of clearance for the spacer

Now for the rear wheel the service manual shows "clearance" for the bearing/housing and spacer(spacer just a millimeter or two from the bearings)

The rear bearings are the most fun because the bearings have to to be spaced just right for clearance for the wheel spacer and final gear drive spacer so the wheel drive gears and the final drive gears are all the way engaged and to get the wheel back on and the brake calipers lined up

I did not see this mentions but just what I found out over the days

So is this :thumbup: or :?

Thanks for listening

p.s. thanks LeDude for your DIY and videos
 

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I just the have shop change my wheel bearings while they are putting new tires on, about every second tire change.
Last time a had them put on 90 degree valve stems too.

All is right with the world now... :D
 
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