Some might disagree, but I see nothing wrong with your Mobil1 choice,
I run the 10w40 Royal Purple fully synthetic in mine....I believe in
synthetic motor oil AFTER break-in. The worst thing that some people
say is that you are wasting your money.....I happen to disagree with
that statement, I will continue to run synthetics as I fully believe that
they lubricate much better than petroleum based oils, so do your
After I crossed the 2k line, before it was time to chnge the oil, I started using Mobile1 mixture of 10-30 and a bit of 5-30 (it gets really cold in Colorado). I've just about crossed 3k on my 400 and she is so quiet. Synthetic all the way for me (afterr the 2k mark!).
According to Covert, we shouldn't jump into synthetic oil at the first 1000.
I believe his word on this and I'll wait until about 3000 to 4000 before I consider it.
Also, I don't recommend any other oil for a Burgman engine than oil that
is specifically designed for a motorcycle.
Several different bike mechanics have over the years stated to me that
motorcycle oil has better shearing qualities than car oil. This will make for
longer viscosity retention over the life of the oil.
Price should never be a consideration for motorcycle oil unless you can get a
better price for the same "best quality" motorcycle oil.
Reason I was given for motorcycle oil was it was needed for the clutch.
I suspect it may also be because of the higher RPMs. That may explain why the local Harley shop charges less for their oil since they run at lower RPMs.
This is an excellent question. One that I have been pondering myself since I will be approaching my first oil change. Firstly, I am not a big fan of synthetics even though they do perform very well at maintaining their viscosity after hard use in an engine. This brings to point... does the 400's engine stress the oil like a GSXR spinning at 14,000 rpm. I don't think so but if you did use synthetic would it offer better lubrication.
Uhm...I looked closely at the schematic of this engine and the first thing that hit me was it is a low pressure oil system because the crankshaft spins on roller bearings and the piston has needle bearings as well. This is a very good thing. Remember the GS series of engines (750, 1000 and 1100's of the 80's) that were used for dragstrip bikes. This was why they were used because they were so very durable. Also remember that there is no transmission like a conventional M/C engine that can stress an engine's oil from shearing by the transmission's gears. The engine is also liquid cooled and therefore temperature control will greatly aid the engines longevity. I really think you probably can even get away with using a SG rated dinasaur oil from any manufacturer. So think about it. Synthetics...they make lots of money for the oil companies. Just like gas if it doesn't knock don't waste your money.
This is a hot button topic but let's make it simple for everybody. Use an oil as recommended by Suzuki for your bike. For the AN400 it is service grade SG, SH. The Mobil MX4T (Motorcycle synthetic) 10-40 is that grade, the automotive Mobil 1 is not. I don't think it will be an issue with the Burgmans but Mobil makes a product that is the right grade why not use it? Yeah, it's 8 bucks a quart but synthetics are far superior to petro based oils.
Got mine w/7200 on the clock. I will be using Castrol Syntec at the next oil change. I've been running it in the Lightning for years and am very happy with the performance & the price point.
My aim is to use it in the entire drive line.
My main reason for using synrthetics (Castrol in particular) is that since I started using it in the truck, when oil comes out, it looks way cleaner than the dino oil I used for the break in period.
I do not advocate using synthetics to break in a new engine, reason being that the seals & gaskets need time to absorb oil and swell slightly to do thier jobs properly. Synthetics are by and large thinner than dino oil and can migrate past the seals if they haven't swelled sufficiently during break in. This is somrthing I have seen in building and maintaining race engines (after I retired, I owned a speed shop for a time).
Whether you agree or disagree, this is my experience, and I am aim to use it to my best advantage.
Yes, it is OK. I've never had to top up my 650 between oil changes, but the 400s seem a bit more prone to using oil occassionally.
Many manufacturers sell dino oil, full synthetic oil, and semi-synthetic oil (which is a blend of the two). If it is convenient, I think I'd top up with the same stuff I'm running. But if I got caught on a road trip needing a top up I wouldn't hesitate topping up with dino 10W40 from a convenience store.
I had a good independent mechanic servicing my Kawi Concours for 6 years. I discussed this with him once and he agreed. It won't hurt anything to top up with dino oil if you need to.
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