[whiteknuckler]

Has anyone here changed out there phillips head screw end for the bar weight to a allen head?

If so how did you do it?

Thanks

Steve

 

[momule]

Should be as simple as taking the phillips head screw to a good hardware store that has all the little boxes of screws etc that you can buy individually and matching the size with a new one with an allen head. Make sure that the screw pitch is the same as well as the diameter and length. Since you could have one of any number of weight ends that are available it's difficult to give you much more help than that.

By the way, the Burgman runs so smoothly that with riding gloves you really don't need bar end weights. You could just put a plug in there and forget about it.

 

[InfernoST]

I usually take the screws to Homedepot or Lowes to get an exact measurement (they have test nuts & bolts in both sae and metric with different thread pitches) then order the bolts I need online where there is much larger selection.

 

[Marv]

Has anyone here changed out there phillips head screw end for the bar weight to a allen head?

Why would you want to change them. If they work loose and you feel you can't get them tight enough with a screwdriver try tapping them with an impact wrench. After doing this mine have never worked loose.

 

[InfernoST]

IMO head of an Allen screw is less apt to strip out as easy as a Phillips head.

 

[LeDude]

I haven't done it but you can give it a quick try.

The only bell that goes off in my head is whether the allen head screw would be flush with the end of the handle bar weight
and cover the exposed cavity in its entirety.

 

[MJR]

Well if you have the factory bar ends you'll need a metric screw and the stock ones are counter sunk. You'll probably want stainless and the Ace Hardware stores around me have a much better selection than you'll find at any Home Depot.

 

[Dave_J]

While its out do a simple mod. Take the inside apart. The nut that the screw goes into needs about 1/8 inch ground off the side that fits in the rubber part. Then get a large nut that will fit inside the handelbar and place it between the weight and the rubber part, reassemble. I got a brass nut that would not fit till I ground the corners off a bit. Brass does not rust. This puts the expanding rubber part farther in the bar and makes it more stable. SEE THIS VVVVVVV.

[attachment=0:vfl5tlms]Bar end.jpg[/attachment:vfl5tlms]

 

[whiteknuckler]

I haven't done it but you can give it a quick try.

The only bell that goes off in my head is whether the allen head screw would be flush with the end of the handle bar weight
and cover the exposed cavity in its entirety.

Good thought

 

[whiteknuckler]

Trouble is my local Suzuki dealer uses an impact wrench to remove and tighten the bar ends

There was a suggestion that when the bar weights are off to turn the rubber core around as it could remain in one shape that does not hold the bar weight snuggly

 

[ErikDK]

I haven't got any bar ends, since I bought mine used with Kuryakyn iso grips, which have closed ends.

I've just purchased Oxford heated grips, but they are somewhat shorter than the Kuryakyns and have open ends.

Should I just use rubber plugs from a bicycle?

 

[Dave_J]

Erik, I would. You can find bar end weights but I am sure they are overkill on our bikes and not needed.

Now on my sons Kawasaki Ninja 500 I added melted lead to his bolt on bars and added a set of Burgman's weights. Made so much less handelbar vibrations that would normally numb the hands and arms.

WARNING!!! Melting lead (Pb) is dangorus.
Lead fumes and dust WILL cause brain damage.
Wash all exposed skin and clothing after working with lead.
Do so at your own risk. WARNING!!!

 

[MJR]

Lead fumes and dust WILL cause brain damage.

Personal experience?

 

[Dave_J]

Lead fumes and dust WILL cause brain damage.

Personal experience?

I ben wrkn wth lead me hole lif. :twisted:

 

[Dave_J]

Lead fumes and dust WILL cause brain damage.

Personal experience?

I ben wrkn wth lead me hole lif. :twisted:

I have been a Telephone Repair tech for 38 years. Back in the early days all the way up into the 80's Lead was the outer sheath to use as it kept water, bugs and rodents out. The cables had a inner pulp (crude paper) insulation on the pairs. If the sheath seal failed and allowed a drop, yes a drop of water in it would do damage. The water caused a short that heated up and burnt the paper off and then that heaver shorts heat would vaporize the water drop. But the water vapor would just condensate to a new spot and so on, and so on....

I have been tested for heavy metal, I like smooth jazz better and hate CRAP, I mean RAPP.

 

[johnny ro]

Putting this on my list to buy for today. Can chamfer a square seat bolt so it holds ok on the weight.

I have DL650 handgards on my AN650. They come with weights that have long bolts and the rubber plug goes way far inside the bar.

Saw DaveJ's brass nut trick above in this string (Thanks Dave) and went to garage and improved on that by using basic black tape wrapped around the bolt, next to weight. Cost- nothing, as I have a surplus of tape. 3m super 33 is nice tape.

Adjustment method is to add or subtract tape layers to get perfect fit, instead of machining a brass nut.

Although Dave has a pair of brass nuts and I don't.

 

[Fatjock]

Well if you have the factory bar ends you'll need a metric screw and the stock ones are counter sunk. You'll probably want stainless and the Ace Hardware stores around me have a much better selection than you'll find at any Home Depot.

+1

 

[RussL]

I took my bar weights off when I changed grips... I do not notice the difference...