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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I want to build a Screwzer.

It's Not quite a Scooter, and Not quite a Cruizer.

I would like to find a Burg650 05'+ could be one that was laid over and all/most plastic is damaged, but is still Very Ride able, and in good condition other than its plastic tupperware.

I would pull off all plastic anyway, down to the frame, that means the under seat storage would be gone too, so will the extra daughter frame section that is piggybacked on to the frame, the upper section above the gas tank and around under seat storage would also be gone.

I may use Two gas tanks the B650 Oem tank on the bike, and the 5 to 6 gal. steel tank, that i have several of, for approx. 9 gallons of gas total.

I like to avoid gas stations, I still take rest stops, just hate to have to stop for gas.

9 gallons of gas at 45-50mpg would provide me 400-450 miles between fill ups

I have several steel gas tanks in the 5-6 gallon size, and several single cruiser seats.

I also have some Faux Tanks from 80's Goldwings that could be used for storage, but then I would be back to the OEM tank at 3.96 gal. is a little small, and does not meet one of my criteria, More miles Before/between fill ups,

Again I take breaks and rest stops the larger amount of fuel is Not so I can go for extended, uninterrupted Long run riding all in one shot, with no stops as i have to get off the bike when i need to.

I hate being out exploring and cut the fun short because i have to go find a gas station, that is a fun spoiler for me.

The goal is to get the SINGLE Seat LOW! and back, I would add some highway pegs, then go with some thin sheeting for the lower frame/engine/trans.

I am 6' tall so this is not because i am height challenged, it is more to build something different, and more of a traditional cruiser look.

I have some Cadillac coupe deville tail lights, and also have some 59' caddy tail light, i think that either or both would have a very cool retro look to it

The single seats i have are a couple from the Honda valkyrie and a couple from the Yamaha cruiser.

The soft throw over saddle bags i saw here in another thread on this site may also be a nice addition Nelsen Rigg CL855

Now to find a decent Plastic Only Damage B650 2005+ with hopefully not to many miles, for a reasonable price.

I have a 05' B650, that runs great, so i am covered for storage, and i dont want to sacrifice a bike with good plastic for this naked cruiser Project.

Although I may put on a small Positive pressure windscreen, similar to a madstad, but alum. shield would be clamped to the upper fork tubes, this would put the shield much closer to your face, I think closer is better, as with My madstad shield while riding if you hold your hand 6" away then 8" away from the shield then 10" away, at some point the farther you get away from the shield, some buffeting starts to creep back in, it seems to me 6"-8" is optimal distance away from the shield, when using positive pressure shield.

I have a few round head Lights 8" & 9" diameter to select from, i would use bar end mirrors and bar end front turn signals.

I have Goldwing handle bars they are the same size as the Suzuki in diameter, but would offer me more room to move back further.

Currently a Goldwing that I removed all the front fairing, saddlebags and trunk taking it down to naked and converted to single seat, has made me

I want the weight that is left on the bike to be Very LOW, By taking off all of the plastic, the B650 is a VERY LOW SLUNG bike, getting the body down lower, seat height will be approx. the height of the rear shock top mount, this should be much lower than stock.

The Highway pegs will be out some where near the engine head/radiator area.
 

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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
In looking at some pictures of the Burgman 650 Naked, getting the seat height down to 26" does not look like a problem, moving it back far enough, for the proper leg room does not look like a problem.

I think the seat height without the oem gas tank could go lower, maybe 23" height, But I dont think I want to go any lower than 26" seat height, and will have to do some ride testing, to verify comfort.

I would like to mount the seat so that it adds to the comfort of the bike,

I wonder what the seat height is for a Miata.

My goal, is to get the weight mass down low, bikes are much more fun to ride, when they are LOW!!! and as much of the mass is on, or very close to it, the Center Axis.

The B650 already has a lot going for it, and being a CVT auto trans, turned into a cruiser, seems like a great choice.

Absolutely every item on the bike that is Not absolutely functional, and needed will be removed, this includes covers, nuts bolts, this bike will be on a reduction of every ounce possible at the same time.

I would need to measure the top of the Oem Gas tank, to the floor to see what that height is.

I was looking at the Honda Grom, very small, very short, very narrow.

That is the goal for this B650 very Low, Very short, very narrow, and as light and trimmed down as it can be.

I do have several HD mufflers, I may opt to gut the Oem Muffler, but still try the HD muffler.

I was thinking the oem Air filter air box is too large, unless i could Mod it, maybe a Pod Air Filter, as it would not interfere with the new gas tank.

The new gas tank has a fairly large tunnel running up the center under side of the gas tank so some things could be stored in that area, I may try to move battery, relays, other electrical into that area.

The Ignition switch, would be my next hurdle, and i have a few ideas for that.

The Suspension parts internally Front and Rear will be mostly Goldwing parts.

Remember each Tank can be filled up, or not all the way up, or only one tank filled, its up to you, but now there are choices.
 

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Sounds like an interesting design exercise. It would do away with most of the reasons why I bought the 650 in the first place so it would not appeal to me but sounds like it would do what you want it to.

These pictures might help you with determining how low you can get it and still retain the stock tank.

 

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Here is another picture of the stripped bike with the upper seat frame back on which also might help





I pulled these pictures from the thread from when I replaced the belt in my CVT. If you have not already discovered it you will find lots of pictures of the bike stripped down in it. http://burgmanusa.com/forums/15-burgman-650/47782-cvt-belt-replace-10.html

I'm not sure you will be able to meet you goal of making the bike really short. The power train module is rather long and no way to shorten it. That will keep the length on the long side. Making it low and narrow will not be a big problem. Making it short will be more of a challenge.

Two things you mentioned as possible problems, the air filter and the ignition switch I agree with. The air filter housing location hanging under the left handle bar will conflict with your design. I don't see how you will be able to modify it so a total replacement with something else will probable be needed.

If you have access to the machining equipment you could probable modify the ignition switch housing to make it shorter so that it more easily fit into your design concept. The electrical part of it is quite small and is located at the bottom end of that big housing. Most of the length of it is just a shaft to transfer the motion of the key at the top down to the switch at the bottom.

Edited to a add: This picture also shows you that you cannot totally do away with the seat sub frame if you want to retain the OEM fuel tank. You will have to build a modified sub frame to provide clearance over the tank but do away with the part that surrounds the trunk.
 

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Basically what you talking about is a SUPER Big Ruckus which is some thing that if I live long enough will do . Look at the side view it's pretty much a no brainer . I think there is more than enough room to leave the present gas tank in and just have an auxiliary tank with a shut off behind it . I wouldn't remove the OEM tank and fuel pump if I were you , because it has EFI the tank has to be pressurized . It can be done but it adds a lot to the cost .

TheReaper!
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks guys for the pictures.

Since i already have a Modified B650 that will remain as my touring bike, i thought it would be nice to have another B650 as a much different bike, more like a City Cruiser.

My thought for the dual tank bike was to shorten the filler tube on the OEM tank to Very short, add a new mount for it, and add a tube to the neck, I am bnot sure if it is steel or alum. my thought is it is steel, weld a tube to it and have a gravity feed from the higher Steel tank to the Oem B650 tank.

The steel gas tanks I have, are Honda Valkyrie, 2002' + Yamaha Star Royal Venture, and a Suzuki M109R tank, I also Have a few Faux Tanks from 80's Goldwings,

The Faux Goldwing tank would be the easiest to mod and make fit, as I would only have to use a cutoff wheel on a dremel and remove what is needed to fit/wrap around the front of the frame.

This would add some storage, but only have 3.96 gallons which may be enough.

My other thought is to hinge mount the rear of the steel tank, so i can lift it from the front to access the Battery, relays, fuses, that would reside under it, in the under tank well.

With two quick pull pins to mount for the front of the Steel tank.

I did a duel tank setup on one of my goldwings, I also converted it to single seat, and 59' Caddy tail Light and couple de' ville tail lights on another Goldwing

I would also like to paint the frame, but maybe not with proper placement of covers.

I like the Delorean, the look of the body in stainless steel, No paint, polished Stainless Steel panels, the body panels would be very samll anyway as the steel tank would cover up some.

Only other thought is mounting and location of stock gauge pod, maybe just above the tank as far forward as possible, in front of the triple tree, It would have to be low enough that it would not contact the during steering, that may be a problem, maybe to the back of the triple tree, it would turn when you steer, that may work.

Front fender, would need to be Trimmed down for a cruiser style front fender look, or maybe a HD sportster front fender, Rear fender Hugger using some sheet plastic
 

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Here is a thought , MJR is looking for a set of plastics and you are looking for a rolling running chassis . Maybe you two could get together on a deal ? He lives in California you live in Oregon , it could happen .:D

TheReaper!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Anyone have a weight for the drive-train,

ie: engine, trans, rear drive, and wheel/tire all together, or broken down.
 

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The fuel filler neck is steel so you should not have any problems with modifying it.

Have you considered what you are going to so with the fuse panel. It's location under the air filter is not going to work with your concept and the wiring harness is not going to give you a lot of slack to move it very far.

I've never seen any published numbers for the drive train weight. With the drive train separated from my bike and supported like in this picture I could lift up on the front of the engine to reposition the jack with out to much difficulty. A wild guess would say it weighs somewhere in the neighborhood of 200 lb.
 

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Assuming "touring" equals long distances, and "city" is associated with multiple short distance rides, I don't understand how a 180 mile range touring Burgman and a 400 mile city Burgman is going to solve your aversion to gas stations to any great degree.

Then again, creative wrenching, as opposed to say, therapy, is an infinitely better way to deal with this "petrol issue." ;)

I am intrigued, and look forward to your progress reports!

As a non-wrencher, I am simply jealous of your imagination and skill.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
maybe city bike is a wrong term, as i am in a rural area, i do have a gas station less than 1/2 a mile from my house.

Next gas station is maybe 10 miles, then another 10 miles for the next one, so i have plenty of them around.

But, it is really so i dont have to visit the gas station so frequently.

I may end up using a goldwing Faux tank, and just deal with the oem range of the B650

The B650 I currently have has done fine for range.

Just not Different, with a certain cool too it that no one else has.

The ruckus is a long the same lines except i want the Tank up front and single cruiser seat to give the Cruiser look.

I would have some of the frame tubes covered by panels, like most other bikes.

I would think a double or triple take would be in order to figure out what the heck it is, and you would still probably be clueless.

I want a auto shift, Low slung cruiser, that looks more motorcycle looking than scooter looking, and that has a range of 400 + miles to empty.

Not that I dont Like my Burgman 650, or have any bad feelings about it.

I just want something different.

I want to have more wind on me while riding, on the new cruiser, and be more protected from the wind, when riding my full bodied oem B650.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
That smaller tube going off of the fuel filler main tube, anyone know if that is going to a evap can,/charcoal filter?

If so that could be my Gravity fill from the other top steel tank.

I may have to use a fuel pump from the steel tank to the lower oem tank for filling.

In the picture it looks as if it is a overflow drain, when filling and it routed to vent to the ground.

There is a filter inline, so maybe it just vents fumes.

I like the looks of the swing arm without the cover on it.

I would like to mod the exhaust at the header end where the muffler attaches, and angle it down some, and re weld the pipe, getting rid of some of the up angle in the back, for a slight rake instead of so extreme, but keeping plenty of ground clearance.

Also Once i expose the rear wheel as much as i am I would like a much shorter Muffler, i have several Harley mufflers, that are much shorter.

Sounds like an interesting design exercise. It would do away with most of the reasons why I bought the 650 in the first place so it would not appeal to me but sounds like it would do what you want it to.

These pictures might help you with determining how low you can get it and still retain the stock tank.

 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Here is a picture of one of my Goldwings that i converted to naked.

It had a Full Front Fairing, saddle bags, and a trunk, a lot of plastic, up high on the bike.

It went from 700-lbs to 550-lbs, but the weight was taken from the upper half of the bike, now this bike rides like a much smaller bike, it is no longer so top heavy, It handles GREAT!! Now, it stops much faster, and it is much faster from a dead stop, and it feels small and very flick-able when riding.

Well it is a 100-h.p. bike and 80 + Lb/ft of torque

Those are HD Mufflers on that bike, I bought them off of a brand new bike, the owner wanted a after market exhaust, $25.00 for the pair, they looked like brand new, i looked inside no exhaust residue in them.

Those are similar to the muffler i would use.

Those tail lights are the 1959' Caddy tail lights, with a short rear fender, and a Modified Front fender, I reshaped the front fender making it smaller and more shapely.

That is one of the earlier Faux gas Tanks That I am talking about. It did not come on the bike, i had to mod it some to make it fit.

That Single seat came off of a Honda Valkyrie, it is VERY COMFORTABLE to ride Long distances, no pressure points are in pain after a long ride
 

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There are actually two smaller lines there.

The one that wraps around the filler neck and goes to the small hose leading to the tank is a vent line. It lefts air out of the tank as you run gas in so that you can pump gas in at an acceptable rate. You could use it to carry fuel from your second tank but you would have to come up it a method for venting air from the tank as you fill it. Depending on how your filler neck ends up looking that might not be a problem though.

The one that goes from the back side of the filler neck and leads to the hose hanging below the bike has one of the two pressure control valves in it. The pressure control valve is that small black and gray canister looking thing mounted in the line. The other pressure control valve is located on the right side of the bike and it is orange and black. The valves are direction specific so you do not want to mix them up.
 

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That is a nice looking conversion on the wing.

One big difference between doing it and the 650 will be dealing with the electronics and computer on the 650. A lot of that stuff is cross connected like the instrument cluster and the computer. If you don't get it right the computer doesn't like it. One member on here reported problems just using a different year model instrument cluster on his 650.

Speaking of the computer, have you decided where you are going to mount it. The stock setup puts if under the instrument cluster behind the headlights. Your going to have to keep it fairly close to that spot because of wiring harness limitations.

You've also got some relays mounted on the right side on the sub frame that supports the front fairing.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
My thought for the instrument cluster is.

If it is that high, and in front of the handle bars, I would like to move it to the rear of the handle bars, and Just above the steel fuel tank.

This should allow me some more wiring as it will now be closer to the main wiring harness.

I would have to do some re-routing of wiring but should not be that big of a deal.

As i wanted the gauge cluster lower anyway, this should allow me to fit the ecu under the Fuel tank well, but i am not sure how long the wiring is between the cluster and ECU.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I will have to look at to see if I can put a Tee in line of the oem vent line, and on one side a gravity to; and the other side of the tee, a vent from;

I will have a three position valve that comes on the steel tanks, that can be turned to off, till you want to gravity feed the lower tank then turn the valve to, run, or reserve for fill, then back to OFF.

Turning the valve to off would eliminate the lower tank from a over fuel fill, causing a fuel leaking situation.

But if you were paying attention that should never happen.

There are actually two smaller lines there.

The one that wraps around the filler neck and goes to the small hose leading to the tank is a vent line. It lefts air out of the tank as you run gas in so that you can pump gas in at an acceptable rate. You could use it to carry fuel from your second tank but you would have to come up it a method for venting air from the tank as you fill it. Depending on how your filler neck ends up looking that might not be a problem though.

The one that goes from the back side of the filler neck and leads to the hose hanging below the bike has one of the two pressure control valves in it. The pressure control valve is that small black and gray canister looking thing mounted in the line. The other pressure control valve is located on the right side of the bike and it is orange and black. The valves are direction specific so you do not want to mix them up.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
My other thought, I would not mind having a third B650 No Plastic body work on this one either.

I also would not use the Frame that the bike came with.

and adapt a VW Bug front suspension mounted to a new frame, mounted to all engine mounting points of the power train.

Making it into a reverse trike configuration, two wheels out front, and single wheel with car tire in the rear.

If the B650 powertrain, engine, trans, rear drive/swing arm, and rear wheel, were to be in the 250-lbs range, and the VW front beam suspension is approx 150Lbs including brakes, and steering gear box, with swaybar.

That is approx 400-lbs, but does not include a very short tie in frame, or gas tank, wiring, front wheels, lighting, and some small amount of body work.

I think it would come out close to the stock curb weight, of the b650.
 

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The back of the ECU has a really big plug on it with a bunch of wires. They are bundled together then feed into the main harness then back out to different things like the instrument cluster. The main harness has many branches to go to the different locations it needs to feed. Looking at this fiche for the 05 harness will give you some idea of what you will be dealing with. http://www.partshark.com/fiche_sect...gory=Scooters&make=SUZUKI&year=2003&fveh=2071

The problem you will run into is you will be separating things that are now bundled together in one branch because they are close together. You may be able to split the covering on the harness and separate the individual wires out so you can move them around as needed.
 

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One thing I can see as a possible problem with you "T" fuel line setup is how you are going to get air out of the OEM tank so fuel drains out of the reserve tank. The upper end of the line is below the filler cap so that it does not vent when the cap is in place. That allows pressure to build up in the tank until the pressure control valve releases it. The pressure control valve might handle it, don't know just how much pressure trips it. At best that will have fuel flowing in gulps as the pressure builds up and releases though. It's not going to work like it would with a tank that is open vented to the air like tanks use to be. Of course if you are doing it with the engine off you could just open the OEM filler cap while the fuel runs in.
 
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