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It sounds like a Bad Gear!! in the Trans Gear Box, Or The Clutch May be Making Contact Or Belt Could be rubbing Some thing, I had that Same Sounds years ago, it turned out to be the CVT Gasket that was making Contact with the Belt!! When you remove the CVT Cover you will See a Metal Gasket, I,v Dumped mines it's not needed!!

Have you ever opened up your CVT before!! you better Open it and have a look!!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks, Elliot.
I did have the cover off a little while back but didn't check out the sound at that time because I thought it was normal -until I was reading the other thread.
I hope it's not a gear!
I'm wanting to do a 1,600 mile trip soon and was going to replace the belt and rollers (with sliders). I'll check it out then.
If I get the clutch and variable thing off and it still makes the sound, I guess it in the gear box, eh?
 

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itlives, even if it's the rear transmission bearing or gears thats the problem, it's pretty easy to fix yourself. It's all done in situ, the engine does not have to be removed as with a conventional modern motorcycle. There is really very little one cannot do to these machines with just some good basic tools. If you have the workshop manual it's an easy step by step fix for anyone who can hold a spanner and feels confident enough to have a go. Just take some photo's as you do it. Many of us on here have lots of experience at fixing that sort of thing so just ask if you get stuck.
 

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I had the same noise (exactly). Here is what I found to be the cause. It was the inner roller bearing of my clutch. It is dead easy to fix and was about $25.00 for the bearing and a buck or two for bearing grease.

Here is how I did mine...by the way, my Burgman 400 is a 2004, but the clutch is similar if not the same in this area. Remove the CVT side cover, then remove the retaining nut on the Variator, remove the outer face. This enables you to remove the drive belt. Next remove the nut holding he clutch to the shaft. Once this is done, slide the entire clutch assembly off its shaft. The inner roller bearing on the clutch is viseable and can be removed quite easily with a hammer (mallet if you will) and a long drift pin, driver, or similar. I personally used a 12" extension from my socket set and a mallet. You insert the driver through the shaft hole from the outside of the clutch so it contacts the inner bearing surface. A few well aimed blows and the bearing will come right out. Grease a new bearing, inspect the bearing seat inside the clutch, clean it and install the new bearing. I have a "C" press, but it can be carefully tapped in. Once it is fully seated, install the clutch, belt and outer Variator face and spin your rear tire. The noise should be gone.

I hope this helps..
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
QM - thanks a bunch for that info. I actually lost sleep last night wondering how much this would cost if I can't do it myself. On the other hand, now I have the best reason to spring $100 for the shop manual!

Roger- Thanks to you. also. I am fairly handy with doing these types of things. I have a great shop (not tool wise, but do have access to whatever I need). It's a 30' X 50' which half is used for doing these sorts of things. (The other half is a gym)

Now, off to Ebay to get a manual and a bearing. Even if I don't need the bearing, I like to have spare stuff for my stuff.

Thanks guys!

Edit- just remembered, can someone tell me the torque's for both the CVT and the clutch. I'm going to get some of those torque bar things (can't remember the actual name) you put on a impact wrench. Seems a lot easier than making a holder for the cvt and clutch.
 

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Torque sticks, 61.5 lbs-ft (85 Nm) clutch bell; 76 lbs-ft (105 Nm) cvt. You will get all these figures with the manual
 

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That Torque Fixed driven face Bearing is So small, and expensive, The cost was way to high for something that small, there are about 7 or 6 Long Wide rollers Pins, Called the Needle bearing, Did not see any wear on this one, But best to use a Thick Heavy Grease on it,.....

Elliott,
 

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Torque sticks, 61.5 lbs-ft (85 Nm) clutch bell; 76 lbs-ft (105 Nm) cvt. You will get all these figures with the manual
Are those torque sticks available in 24mm? How do we convert it up from a 17/19/21 mm torque stick?
 

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I found the bearing you will need. The cost is pretty cheap. It is from cheapcycleparts.com. Here is the information.

11BEARING, FIXED DRIVEN, RH
21214-15F00
$25.25

It is dead easy to install.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Well, good news for me. It's not a gear! It is both bearings in the clutch. I have a couple of pictures (because I like pictures) and comments or questions.
What's the procedure for cleaning up these faces. There are not ridges but more like smooth indentations around all of them. I know they are wear points. Do you have to get them re-surfaced like a brake drum? If so, does Suzuki usually do it?


The clutch pads look good. Just a little de-glazing will do here. But, if you take off that HUGE nut, will the thing fly apart? I put it in a vise and tried to turn it a little but it didn't budge. I need to replace inner and outer bearings. is there a kit available for that?


This Malossi belt I bought said on the package it was for the Burgman but it isn't as long or thick. I was wondering does it being narrower off-set the length with the pulleys?


Thanks guys for any and all help. I love being able to do whatever work I can on all my vehicles. It's why my truck is 34 years old and it's my newest cage I've owned in the last 15 years.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Roger -thanks for that (I just looked back a few posts and saw it). I'll go check if they have both bearings as I could feel some "grumpy" rolling on both.
 

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Maybe it was a Burgman 400 Belt But An '06 Belt, Possible

As far as the Surface Just use Fine Course Sand Paper in a Circular Rotation.

Elliott,
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I ordered the bearings from Oneida Suzuki. I read in the manual where they don't reuse many parts that I do. I mean, who doesn't reuse a circlip? No wonder the dealers wind up charging so much -going by the book (and they have to) will break an average Joe.
 

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Start at 1:30


To assemble it back you'll need to compress the spring somehow and hold the base. I am using a rectangular metal frame that presses down the clutch by two 3/8" opposite bolts to a wood platform.
 
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