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Discussion Starter #1
On another thread I tried asking for a little advice about valve adjustment and received Norman's obnoxious reply instructing me to "rtfm." Another member echoed Norman's oh-so-clever comments, then no more posts were made, perhaps because my question was buried in a thread that ran its course.

After having read over many of the posts to this forum, I frankly expected better, and can't quite understand why the question I asked would elicit such a rude response. Perhaps I overstepped some boundary that I, as newbie, might be unaware of? If so, my apologies, but somehow I doubt it.

In the meantime, I thought I'd try again and see what others might have to say. My original question was a bit vague (I asked for any suggetions regarding valve adjustments) but was intended to find out if a valve adjustment was necessary on the AN650 at 600 miles and if it was a complicated matter best left to a real mechanic, or one I might be able to tackle myself? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
 

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Brad said:
On another thread I tried asking for a little advice about valve adjustment and received Norman's obnoxious reply instructing me to "rtfm." Another member echoed Norman's oh-so-clever comments, then no more posts were made, perhaps because my question was buried in a thread that ran its course.

After having read over many of the posts to this forum, I frankly expected better, and can't quite understand why the question I asked would elicit such a rude response. Perhaps I overstepped some boundary that I, as newbie, might be unaware of? If so, my apologies, but somehow I doubt it.

In the meantime, I thought I'd try again and see what others might have to say. My original question was a bit vague (I asked for any suggetions regarding valve adjustments) but was intended to find out if a valve adjustment was necessary on the AN650 at 600 miles and if it was a complicated matter best left to a real mechanic, or one I might be able to tackle myself? Any suggestions would be much appreciated.
Guess I missed your other thread? Sorry. Just had my 600 Mile service done at my dealer for my 650 Burgman. Does NOT call for any valve adjust. When that time DOES come, it will require a dealer as I have NO ability to deal with it. Please let me know if I can help with anything else. Doubt this will help you? By the way, I have no idea what "rtfm" means either? Mike

Homepage:
http://members.cox.net/mikecartwright/
 

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Brad,

I edited your post a bit. Explicit use of the "f-word" is not acceptable on this forum. I know NormanB used the acronym that I substituted. Referring to other forum members as jack-asses is also totally unacceptable and I removed that also. If you must communicate in that manner, please do it on some forum other than BurgmanUSA.

That said, I'll answer your question. Valve adjustment on an AN650 is not scheduled until 14,500 miles. This is shown in the maintenance table in your owners manual. It is a job best left to an authorized Suzuki mechanic.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Paul,

I found the meaning of the acronym, including the "F" word, posted on this forum without any editorial comment following it so I assumed it must have been acceptable. My apologies if my use of it offended you or anyone else, but I do not see how using an acronym for a curse word is anymore appropriate then using the curseword itself. A little like saying its OK to flip someone the bird, but not OK to say F you. My comments about jackasses simply referred to anyone who might issue a response like the one I received earlier telling me to RTFM. I'm a bit surprised I didn't hear from you then.

Once again, however, my apologies to anyone this offended.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sorry to keep posting, but I want to clarify what I wrote originally. I used the F word only to explain what RTFM meant (Read the F'ing manual) and found the meaning by searching for RTFM on this site. Also, I did not mean to suggest that Norman or anyone else is a jacka--. I don't know Norman, and I'm sure he's a lovely guy. Nevertheless, I think the word fit wll with the response I received. Again, if I've offended anyone let me know and I'll bug off.
 

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OK Brad. I probably should have PM'd you instead of going inline in the thread. Folks do use the acronyms and special character substitution for letters from time to time, and we let that fly. We have edited others before for explicit use of certain words - you aren't the first. What we do try to maintain is a friendly tone in the forum, and your message as originally worded didn't fit that. Perhaps NormanB was also riding the line with his original rtfm response to you too. I think everyone understands what happened at this point, so lets cap the issue as far as discussion in the thread goes. You are free to PM me if you need to.

Thanks
 

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Brad said:
Again, if I've offended anyone let me know and I'll bug off.
Hi Brad do not do that!
I will post, reply and explain in your original thread.
:)
 

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Hey Brad.....stick with us. A good and very helpful bunch of guys on this forum.

I made the original post concerning the 600 mile check up and valve adjustment on my burgy.......which is the 400 burgy.....not the 650. The two engines have different valve designs. It seems the 400 design requires more frequent checks and adjustments than the 650. Sorry about any confusion.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
It does seem like a great bunch, and thanks for clearing everything up. I'll try to relax now.
 

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Hey Brad,

Do you have the 400 or 650? Thats not clear from these rantings here because if you want some constructive advice on performing a valve job thats an important distinction.
 

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650 valve jobs.

It is very important that everyone knows that the 650 doesn't require any valve work until 14,500 miles/24,000km.

I posted in another thread that the information from Suzuki that dealers use for pricing does say it's required, and I was charged for it, but the service manual and owner's manual clearly say it is not.

And I did get a refund from my dealer when I pointed out the error.
 

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Actually - reading the manual IS the best place to start. And RTFM is commonly used by people not intending to be rude - but just trying to be cute and still make an impression that you need to read about it and decide for yourself. Sometimes it helps to be a little thicker skinned (I need to be a little thinner skinned - because I'm just plain dense). :) Norm's a good guy - you just didn't take it in the playful spirit I'm sure he intended.

Anyway...

If you are familiar with shim in bucket valve systems then you will find checking them to be simple once you get the bodywork off. You will of course need to have a gap gauge and know how to use it. Now as for adjusting them, you'll need to invest in 4 sets of shims. Removing the head cover without damaging any gaskets is usually the hardest part of fiddling with shim in bucket valve systems (or screw type adjusters for that matter). I haven't opened my Burgman's head to look at them yet - but I have Read The Fine Manual that Suzuki puts out for it (Hmmm, is Fine the word in question?).

If you've never done anything beyond changing a tire - then you should probably have the shop do your valve check/adjust. If you used to set the points on your motorcycle or car (and it ran well afterwards) then you may want to try it once. If you've replaced a cam chain before - then adjusting the valves is simple... Get a copy of the manual, read the section on it and take off the bodywork to see what it's talking about - and then you decide if it's something you want to do.

Okay - why does the Burgman 650 come with such a cool CVT, excellent fuel injection, but cheapo shim in bucket valve adjusters? Can I put hydraulic valve adjusters on the wish list to send to Suziki?
 

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I'm a bit late getting into this discussion but I'm way behind in my reading due to some fine riding weather. 8) The rtfm thing, to me, means Read the factory manual so should be okay in any forum.

The main reason for using "shim under bucket" valve adjustment, going way back to when Kawasaki first used them on the KZ550, was so they couldn't be spit out at high revs like the KZ900 used to do. A more up-to-date reason is that, once set properly, they almost never change. I had my 24000 km service done at the shop and all the readings were in the centre of the range. I expect, at 100,000 miles it will still be the same.[/quote]
 

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Glad to hear Wes and I like your RTFM explanation . I just passed 18000kms this morning (still on the OEM tires Lycheed and Pauljo :tongue1: ) and I think I will tear mine down this winter once I put it away for the season and check the tolerances. Good to hear that yours didn't need any adjustment.
 
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