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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Electrical Problem! Reversed Polarity. URGENT!!!

My 2009 AN400 was in my driveway last night, minding it's own business when someone needed to jump it off. Well, someone hooked a jumpbox up, but in the dark, attached the cables backwards. Only lasted about 3 seconds, due to immediate spark and sizzle. Now not even a light will come on. No horn. NOTHING!!! Went to AutoZone this morning. Battery checked out excellent. Charged the battery anyway. Put it in my JetSki...started right up. Still nothing, not a flicker of life, on AN400. Checked all fuses. Great. Checked Main Fuse. Perfect. NOTHING. Can anyone help me??? Please? Oh, by the way, I called the local Suzuki dealer this morning at 8:50. Got the mechanic on the phone. He did not know where the main fuse was. He had me hold while he looked it up in the service manual. Came back and told me--"I am stumped. Even the service manual doesn't say where to find it. I have no idea where it is. But that's what it has to be. No power could get past that because it would pop it. That is the worst it could be."
All I can say is Thank God for YouTube!!! And since he mis-called it on the Main Fuse, I fear he is off on that "worst" part too!
 

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Rectifier is fried most likely, they do not take kindly to having the flow reversed.

It is also possible that there are shorts in wires.
 

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You may have also fried the ECM.
 

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Jim, the main 30a fuse is beside the starter relay. Are you sure it's ok? Ignition was off at the time this happened I hope? You may still have fried the ecm and damaged the alternator. It only takes a second. Lets hope not. Please confirm the ignition was off and we'll see what else to explore.
 

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Jim, I did the same thing on a dark night after leaving my key on in a parking lot. The battery was about five years old and, when it wouldn't jump start, I initially thought the battery was toast. I walked to a nearby auto parts store, ready to buy a battery. A guy there suggested I check the main fuse so, I purchased one while there, walked back over and, sure enough it was blown. Replaced it and jumped again...same thing. I replaced it again and got better light on the terminals and..."Oh [email protected]*&!" I reversed the cables and she started right up with no problem. Whew. I know you said you checked the fuse but, make sure it is the main, 30 amp one.
 

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I was not aware that the Burgman had stealth technology! :cool:

ECM{electronic counter measures} http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Electronic_countermeasure

I think you meant ECU. But you are right, it is possible it was fried.
That is the problem with using Wikipedia for a source, it's only as accurate as the span of the knowledge of the person that happened to type the article.

ECM in the automotive world is the acronym for "Engine Control Module" and yes ECM is what I intended to say as that is the most accurate term for the black box on the 400.

On the 650 it is technically more accurate to call it a PCM (powertrain control module) because it controls both the engine and the transmission. However most call it the ECM there too.

ECU (electronic control unit) is just a generic term that can refer to either a ECM or a PCM.
 

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Never heard anybody call it an ECM before, I have always heard the term ECU or PCM. Maybe the reason why many don't use the term ECM is because it can be confused with other terms. ECM can also mean Enterprise Content Management BTW.

I only used wiki to explain what I was talking about not to figure out what you were talking about.
 

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My experience is just the opposite, I hear the term ECM a lot more than I do the term ECU.

Anytime you use an acronym it can be confusing because it can mean different things to folks in different disciplines. ECU is also the acronym for European Currency Unit in the finance discipline and the names of several universities in the education discipline. You have to look at the context to know the meaning.
 

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Plus don't forget that PCM is "pulse code modulation".
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yes...Ignition was off. I purchased a new main fuse, just to be on the safe side, though I put the multi-meter on both it and all the 8 regular fuses, and all showed good continuity.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
The more I think about it I am not truly certain if the ignition was on or off! Can you tell me the difference in terms of potential damages?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Jim, the main 30a fuse is beside the starter relay. Are you sure it's ok? Ignition was off at the time this happened I hope? You may still have fried the ecm and damaged the alternator. It only takes a second. Lets hope not. Please confirm the ignition was off and we'll see what else to explore.
I am not entirely certain as to whether or not the ignition was off or not. Can you tell me what the difference would be in terms of potential damages? As for the main fuse, I replaced it with a new one, just to be safe. All the regular 8 fuses test well on continuity with a multi-meter.
 

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If the key was on you are more likely to have blown things like the ECM, alternator, diode and rectifier.
 

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Jim I sent you a pm this morning.

I'm +1 with Buffalo and inferno. Sorry to hear the problem continues. I suspect something big has happened although have you gone through to the end of the battery cables to check the connections especially the earth. Take a look.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Updates!

I have checked all fuses and tested continuity...all good. But, I decided to replace them anyway. Had my battery checked at 2 different Autozones and an Advance Auto Parts: All sad good at 11.7 and 120 amps. Eventually bought a new one, just to satisfy myself. Visually inspected neutral battery cable (as that is where sparks and sizzle occurred) and it appears to be intact. I thought perhaps it was not grounding. There is still not even a spark of life (no pun intended) in her. I have found a rectifier on eBay, and I hope it is the right one. I also hope I can do this. Any other ideas? Thanks so much! I have 3100 miles on her and not a scent of a problem until this. :mad:
 

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It may not be as bad as it seems.

Headlights, horn, turn signals are all things that require little more than voltage to operate. Same with the starter motor.

I clipped a portion of the electrical diagram. A link to this clip is here

You should check carefully the highlighted connections as I think they are most likely to be your issue. Basically, the wire coming off the positive battery terminal to the starter relay assembly. Check for continuity (or check for 12VDC at the input to the starter assembly). Check for voltage coming out of the starter relay assembly on the red wire. Check for 12VDC at the fuse panel. Once you have 12VDC to the fuse panel you should have some lights. If I was a betting man, I would put my money on or around your ignition switch.

You can find a K7 schematic in the knowledgebase. It's a real handy thing for this type of trouble shooting.
 
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