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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys. My 2005 400 Burgman was nearly stolen by kids but they failed

They’ve taken two wires from the ignition plug (black and red are unplugged from the plug), and there’s 4 or 5 blue wires unplugged which appear to be from the horn and the rusty block shown in the picture

Does anyone know which order to put the black and red wire?

And does anyone know what the small rusty block does, and maybe which wires go where on the blue wires?

Thanks 👍🏻
90554
90555
 

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uh, your wiring seems very customized.

The blue wires and that fastons seems really something home made (something you buy at big stores).
I'd also take more image of the "rusty" block from different angles.
 

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Yes, that's an add-on part, possibly a relay for lighting or other added accessory? Since it isn't factory, none of us can tell what it is for or how it's wired just by that pic. You'll need to trace out where the wires go, then we may be able to offer some help.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I’ve found a picture of the ignition wire plug and have got the red and black in the correct places, but I can’t see anywhere this plugs in. Can anyone confirm it’s location?

The bike has 2 horns which aren’t plugged in, each has 2 terminals so I’m guessing these four blue wires are this, suspect the thieves unplugged the horn in case an alarm went off
 

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oh, ok.
You should take images of that rusted part so we know what it is.
Given the two horns, it could be a relay for them or, if you have some sort of alarm, an accelerometer or .... dunno, we need images.

Anyway, given how bad is that "rusty thing" and supposing it's just a relay, i'd redo that wirings. It is not an hard thing to do, with some good images i'm positive we could guide you.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
oh, ok.
You should take images of that rusted part so we know what it is.
Given the two horns, it could be a relay for them or, if you have some sort of alarm, an accelerometer or .... dunno, we need images.

Anyway, given how bad is that "rusty thing" and supposing it's just a relay, i'd redo that wirings. It is not an hard thing to do, with some good images i'm positive we could guide you.
2 new pics attached

there’s an empty terminal on this rusty thing, and there’s a thick red wire nearby that’s not plugged in to anything, the other end of this red wire goes to the battery positive so I’m assuming it goes on this rusty thing to power the blue wires
90557
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Discussion Starter #7
I’ve also traced the four blue wires
Two of them are grounds which connect to the frame

The other two go from this rusty thing, to the main look itself right behind where your right foot sits when riding

do these bikes have 2 horns as stock?

im guessing this rusty thing let’s you add another live to something else, the two blue wires from the main loom would reach the two horns, it seems someone’s fit this to act a 3 way splitter?
 

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ok, that rusty thing is definitively an automotive relay that has lost is cap.


I bet it was in the same box of the two horns: usually they are provided with 'cause they absorb much more current than the stock one (and without the relay it will burn the pushbutton).

That thing is "dead": buy a new one and redo the connections. Meanwhile, be sure to cover that red wire.
 

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Now, what you'll found is that the original wires (the ones that were once connected to the original horn) now goes (perhaps with some blue wire added) to the 85 & 86 pins of the relay: they now switch the relay on and off.

The added red wire from the battery goes on the pin #30, and the blue wires goes from 87 to the horns.

To explain why it is this way, the relay absorb very little current, so your horn push button can "pilot" the relay. Also, the relay contact is able to handle the strong current for the new horns, so when you push the button you switch the relay on, which means that the relay "push is own button" that finally makes the horns honks.

(sorry for my english)
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Now, what you'll found is that the original wires (the ones that were once connected to the original horn) now goes (perhaps with some blue wire added) to the 85 & 86 pins of the relay: they now switch the relay on and off.

The added red wire from the battery goes on the pin #30, and the blue wires goes from 87 to the horns.

To explain why it is this way, the relay absorb very little current, so your horn push button can "pilot" the relay. Also, the relay contact is able to handle the strong current for the new horns, so when you push the button you switch the relay on, which means that the relay "push is own button" that finally makes the horns honks.

(sorry for my english)
Makes total sense, you’re a clever man Parduz!

I’ll order a new relay soon, do you think 30a will be enough?

And do you know where the ignition wire should plug back in to?
 

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I’ll order a new relay soon, do you think 30a will be enough?
Yes, but if i were you (and, i'm guessing, without any electrician experience) i'd go to an ... electrician-for-cars (what's the word?) and do everything new.
For what it look, your wiring is very amateurish and prone to give problems. Insulated fastons (that things at the end of the wires) should be the minimum improvement.
As you're having the wiring already exposed (i mean, there's no plastic to remove), for an experts it's a job that takes less than 30 minutes.

And do you know where the ignition wire should plug back in to?
My guessing is at the far end of the Key/Fork-locking pipe (which is visible behind the red wire in the very first image); if not, then anywhere on that piece. I've a 650 and it is there.
 
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