Tyre pressures
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Joined
·
409 Posts
I run 36F and 40R. I'm 185 lbs.
Joined
·
5,363 Posts
Suzuki recommends 33 psi front, and 36 psi rear solo / 41 psi rear with a passenger.
I was running 31 psi front and 36 psi rear, since I've been riding solo almost all the time.
My front tire is holding up fine, but my rear tire wore out at 5300 miles. Several folks have said that they get better tire wear using the higher pressure setting. So, with the new rear tire I am running it at 41 psi - I'm leaving the front at 33 psi.
It is important to check tire pressure at least weekly. With variances in outside temperature, tires pressures can be effected. And, of course, tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold - before riding. An electric air pump is a worthwhile investment so that you don't have to ride to a station to adjust pressure. If you don't have anywhere to plug in an electric pump, try to use a station within 3 miles of where you keep the scoot. There are also cannister type devices. (You take them to a station occasionally and charge the tank with air.)
I was running 31 psi front and 36 psi rear, since I've been riding solo almost all the time.
My front tire is holding up fine, but my rear tire wore out at 5300 miles. Several folks have said that they get better tire wear using the higher pressure setting. So, with the new rear tire I am running it at 41 psi - I'm leaving the front at 33 psi.
It is important to check tire pressure at least weekly. With variances in outside temperature, tires pressures can be effected. And, of course, tire pressure should be checked when the tires are cold - before riding. An electric air pump is a worthwhile investment so that you don't have to ride to a station to adjust pressure. If you don't have anywhere to plug in an electric pump, try to use a station within 3 miles of where you keep the scoot. There are also cannister type devices. (You take them to a station occasionally and charge the tank with air.)
Joined
·
5,363 Posts
Yes you can, but the scooter should be running. The accessory plug only works with the ignition on (at least on my 650). So the combined drain of headlights, taillights, fuel pump, ignition, etc in addition to the draw of the air pump - lead me to believe that you're much better off with the engine running & the battery being charged. Of course you'd want to set the hand brake to keep that rear wheel from spinning...Ted White said:
I have a direct lead coming off of the battery, with the plug sticking out under the seat. I use it for my electrically heated vest and gloves, my Battery Tender Jr charger, and my air pump. It is live all the time, since it is wired straight to the battery terminals. If I'm only adjusting pressure up a pound or two, I don't bother starting the engine.
Two minor problems. All of these devices use different plug types. A couple of inexpensive plug converters solved that one. Then, some of these devices use a very low rated blade fuse (Battery tender is only 3 amp fuse - but the electric clothing draws 15 amps). So, obviously I had to ensure that the blade fuse in the battery hookup was 15 amps (or whatever is required by the device that draws the most current).
I like that setup, so I never use the glovebox accessory plug.
1 - 9 of 9 Posts
Join the discussion
Join now to ask and comment!