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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Last August I bought a 13 year old (2008 k8) Burgman 400 with only 5500 miles on it. I have since put 2500 miles on it, and recently I noticed the variator assembly action has changed. It used to keep the RPM at 4000 to 5000 when doing full throttle up to 50 MPH or so and then the RPM would climb in sync with the road speed.

That has changed. Now it will do 4500 to 5500 to about 25 MPH and then quickly climbs to 6000 to 6500 RPM. It then syncs at 65 MPH road speed like before. At light throttle and low speed it acts as before and the motor lives at 4000 to 5000 RPM as before.

I love the difference, the scooter now has a lively response but I am slightly worried. Any ideas what happened or what to look for? I will be opening up the variator to de-glaze the clutch and bell, do an overall inspection and lubrication, and at least a belt change because of its age.

I have a few thoughts.
The motor was poorly broken in with too much light loading (indicated by clutch squeal and shudder) when new and under my ham handed throttle twisting I finished the break in or blew out a lot of carbon thereby pulling harder on the secondary sheave and opening it up somewhat.

The variator assembly from crankshaft to transmission input shaft needs cleaned and old lube removed and replaced with new.

The drive belt is slowly shredding on me and getting ready to break on me while I am in the center lane of a freeway in Columbus, Ohio, at rush hour.

Any thoughts?
 

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Most likely the belt, as you're on borrowed time assuming it's original. I would just plan on replacing the belt and rollers or sliders (18gm Dr Pulley sliders are good...will give you higher rpm on takeoff and lower cruising rpm). Wouldn't hurt to disassemble the driven pulley/clutch assembly and lubricate the torque adapter and related parts if you have the tools and are feeling adventurous.
 
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And while we're at it, how old are the tires?
 
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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
And while we're at it, how old are the tires?
All has been checked out. Back one is new, the front one is 13 years old and it's going to stay there until it wears out. No weathering, no cracks, no bulges, runs down the road with no shake, shimmy, wobble. Its appearance, and the whole machine indicates dry indoor storage. It stays.

Now before you ask, the brake master cylinders, the caliper seals, brake hoses, coolant hoses . . . they are 13 years old and show no weathering, no cracks, no bulges, no leaks, and all operate properly. What have I missed?

I do keep an eye on these things and service them as needed, but I don't buy into the OH MY GAWD! IT IS OVER X YEARS OLD! REPLACE IT OR YOU ARE GOING TO DIE! school of maintenance.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Most likely the belt, as you're on borrowed time assuming it's original. I would just plan on replacing the belt and rollers or sliders (18gm Dr Pulley sliders are good...will give you higher rpm on takeoff and lower cruising rpm). Wouldn't hurt to disassemble the driven pulley/clutch assembly and lubricate the torque adapter and related parts if you have the tools and are feeling adventurous.
That is what I plan on doing. I was checking in to see if I missed anything. Doing an R&R on the works inside the variator cover is something I have done before and it is not particularly adventuresome. Now, adjusting the valve lash involving removing the cams, that's adventuresome!

I was wondering about the DR Pulley sliders. Now I know what weight to get. I will try to work that into my budget.
 

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Yes, I'd pull the CVT apart just to see the condition of all those spinny parts. Probably the variator has belt dust in it. Check belt width.
My choice of DP sliders was 19g. Now about 40,000 miles on them, holding up well, the bike feels just right 🙂
 

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dont know what year they changed ,but older 400s had 21g rollers i have a 2019 that had 19 g stock . i replaced with DP 19g sliders. WOW same performance with about 1200 rpm less at cruzing speed 75 mph 6400
wind resistance and me 215lbs limit top end 94 mph
 

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Your belt is barely at it's half life. I replaced my 2008's belt last January with almost 18,000 miles on it. It still measured within spec, had no cracks and showed no sign of delamination. The stock rollers looked new with no wear. All pulley surfaces had considerable wear. I installed 19 gram tech pulley sliders, and a malossi belt. That was money well spent. I wouldn't pull out components with a ton of life left to do these changes, but when the time comes it is money well spent.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Last August I bought a 13 year old (2008 k8) Burgman 400 with only 5500 miles on it. I have since put 2500 miles on it, and recently I noticed the variator assembly action has changed. It used to keep the RPM at 4000 to 5000 when doing full throttle up to 50 MPH or so and then the RPM would climb in sync with the road speed.

That has changed. Now it will do 4500 to 5500 to about 25 MPH and then quickly climbs to 6000 to 6500 RPM. It then syncs at 65 MPH road speed like before. At light throttle and low speed it acts as before and the motor lives at 4000 to 5000 RPM as before.

I love the difference, the scooter now has a lively response but I am slightly worried. Any ideas what happened or what to look for? I will be opening up the variator to de-glaze the clutch and bell, do an overall inspection and lubrication, and at least a belt change because of its age.

I have a few thoughts.
The motor was poorly broken in with too much light loading (indicated by clutch squeal and shudder) when new and under my ham handed throttle twisting I finished the break in or blew out a lot of carbon thereby pulling harder on the secondary sheave and opening it up somewhat.

The variator assembly from crankshaft to transmission input shaft needs cleaned and old lube removed and replaced with new.

The drive belt is slowly shredding on me and getting ready to break on me while I am in the center lane of a freeway in Columbus, Ohio, at rush hour.

Any thoughts?
OK crew, I have been into the variator case. I found the belt was like new, but I put the new belt on since I bought it and I replaced the rollers with DR Pulley 19g sliders. The old belt is now the spare. What I did find was an unbelievable amount of black powder in the front pulley packed in and restricting the movement of the variator. I realized I was too eager to put it back together. I go back in tomorrow to remove the burr on the edge of the roller ramp plate. I put everything back together dry. I was going to put small dabs of assembly lube on the works but seeing all the dust convinced me that was a bad idea.

All was well on the driven pulley mechanism, everything works smoothly and the lube has not dried up. I did have to go over the clutch bell and clutch shoes with sandpaper. The shoes were glazed, but lucky me, the clutch bell was not blue or warped so it got a light sanding to break up the slight glaze. I'll finish up tomorrow and wait for the rarest of days this time of year, temps in the 40s, dry, with and wind speeds under 30 MPH to try out the new sliders.

Compared to a decade working on Yamaha maxi scooters, a TMAX 500 and a Majesty 400, this Burgman is a dream to do drive line maintenance on. Only one easy to remove panel to remove, no hard to get at bolts, consistent screw types, bolt head sizes and head types, threaded hole jack points to remove the belt cover . . . wonderful.
 

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Compared to a decade working on Yamaha maxi scooters, a TMAX 500 and a Majesty 400, this Burgman is a dream to do drive line maintenance on. Only one easy to remove panel to remove, no hard to get at bolts, consistent screw types, bolt head sizes and head types, threaded hole jack points to remove the belt cover . . . wonderful.
Consider yourself lucky, plenty of different stories on CVT cover removal :mad:, yes filling ramp plate edge a must do IMO with DRP sliders, I learned this the badway o_O, IAC a light coat of high temp anti-seize on cover bearing bore, cover bolts and dowel/locator pins, bonding gasket to cover and replacing foam filter are all good ideas. On my 2014/5k miles the grease was all dried up inside rear pulley, oem grease (n), IAC mostly PSA/JIC.
 

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All has been checked out. Back one is new, the front one is 13 years old and it's going to stay there until it wears out. No weathering, no cracks, no bulges, runs down the road with no shake, shimmy, wobble. Its appearance, and the whole machine indicates dry indoor storage. It stays.

Now before you ask, the brake master cylinders, the caliper seals, brake hoses, coolant hoses . . . they are 13 years old and show no weathering, no cracks, no bulges, no leaks, and all operate properly. What have I missed?

I do keep an eye on these things and service them as needed, but I don't buy into the OH MY GAWD! IT IS OVER X YEARS OLD! REPLACE IT OR YOU ARE GOING TO DIE! school of maintenance.
Die, probably not. Just betcha it'll leave you 60 miles from a bike shop that doesn't have the tire you need on Saturday at 7pm. Oh and PLEASE remember 90% of bike shops have no Monday hours. Easily 4 to 5 days out for a tire? Even with perfect storage your 30% over the max life for any tire. I hope your X-ray vision is in working order. Tires decay internally worse than externally at times. A less expensie Shinco or like tire a better choice. A tire failure always happens when it's least convenient. I'm wishing you the best in your really bad decision. IMHO. BEING A FRONT TIRE, THATS YOUR STEERING, WHO OR WHAT ARE YOU GOING TO HIT? Words from someone who cares.
 

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Yep, pretty easy to get me GOING on old tires and ZDDP IN OILS.
Good thing you missed my thread on my 8 year old 16k miles, front tire.

“I'm wishing you the best in your really bad decision.”
That’s still the best line I think I’ve read here in a while 😂
 

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... snipped ... the front one is 13 years old and it's going to stay there until it wears out. No weathering, no cracks, no bulges, runs down the road with no shake, shimmy, wobble.
... I do keep an eye on these things and service them as needed, but I don't buy into the OH MY GAWD! IT IS OVER X YEARS OLD! REPLACE IT OR YOU ARE GOING TO DIE! school of maintenance.
Null, appears we went to the same school. I look at maintenance consumables on a case by case basis. I'm just finishing off a couple of 13 year old tires on my new-to-me SWing that are as "symptom free" as you described your front tire is.

Having said that, I'm replacing all four of the low mileage Michelins on my SuperDuty truck despite having almost 1/2" of even wear, measured tread remaining. Why? ... because they're starting to show signs of sidewall deterioration after 8 years.

If you haven't had issues with that 13 y.o. tire in the 2,500 miles you've ridden on it ... odds are it will die a natural, used up death.
 

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Null, appears we went to the same school. I look at maintenance consumables on a case by case basis. I'm just finishing off a couple of 13 year old tires on my new-to-me SWing that are as "symptom free" as you described your front tire is.

Having said that, I'm replacing all four of the low mileage Michelins on my SuperDuty truck despite having almost 1/2" of even wear, measured tread remaining. Why? ... because they're starting to show signs of sidewall deterioration after 8 years.

If you haven't had issues with that 13 y.o. tire in the 2,500 miles you've ridden on it ... odds are it will die a natural, used up death.
In my readings old tires quite often catastrophically fail, which is why they are so dangerous, especially in the front.
 

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We only seen the success stories on here. Those that don't make it never seem to post back, so it's skewed data.
 

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We only seen the success stories on here. Those that don't make it never seem to post back, so it's skewed data.
Exactly !! (y)
 
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