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Discussion Starter #1
SO I'm on a Sunday ride of 75 miles or so and at a certain point on the way home get a faint smell of burning rubber. No other problems though.

The next morning on the way to work I start to notice what feels like a very slight bump as I just start to get moving good from a stop.

I think ok it may be time to check the belt.

On the way home I feel the same bump and start to hear a definite rubbing/grating sound that seems to be coming from the transmission so I park at my girlfriend's apartment (where it still sits) and it takes a few days to get into it.

The belt doesn't seem to be worn down too much according to the cheap plastic harbor freight caliper i have and it doesn't seem to be too much narrower than the new belt I ordered from Scooterwest.com.

HOWEVER... I have the big black streak around the outer edges of the variator and that lil bit of groove in them just inside where that black marking is.

Changed the final drive oil and blew out a lot of dust. I havent removed the clutch to look at those pulleys.

Mechanic I know at the Honda dealer where I bought it says I need new variator pulleys but from what I have read on here that groove seems to be normal from where the belt rides the most.

Another wrinkle is that my auto mechanic looked at it as I happened to be talking about it with him while at his shop and he buffed the faces of both front variators and removed the black markings. He used a buffing pad on an air tool. He didnt sand it but you can see where it was buffed. Removed almost all of the black strak though. I can add a photo later.

So Im wondering if I should just put it all back together with or without the new belt and see how it goes or do I risk shredding the belt because of buffing the variators or what?

Do I order new variators now? I've got about 12,500 miles on it.

I'm also thinking about Doc pulley sliders but am unsure what weight would be best for me. The 18g?? I am 6 ft and about 290 pounds and ride to and from work plus a lot of weekend fun riding.

Any help is appreciated!

-Scott
 

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Put it back together. Cleaning it out will have corrected the "bump" as it is unrelated to the "grooves". The "groove" (put a flat edge across it and you'll find it is barely a scratch) is just normal wear, from the belt's Kevlar backbone which projects slightly when the rubber face of the belt is loaded. Kevlar is quite abrasive, we made rope of it years ago and had to switch from chromed to ceramic guides to achieve acceptable maintenance cycles.

If you were to replace the pulley faces you would find that withing a few thousand miles they would look just like those you now have. Mine was just as you describe at 12.3k miles when I got the scoot, now at 27k miles it is no worse...
 

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Have you had a look at the clutch in the rear pulley.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
cliffyk said:
Put it back together. Cleaning it out will have corrected the "bump" as it is unrelated to the "grooves". The "groove" (put a flat edge across it and you'll find it is barely a scratch) is just normal wear, from the belt's Kevlar backbone which projects slightly when the rubber face of the belt is loaded. Kevlar is quite abrasive, we made rope of it years ago and had to switch from chromed to ceramic guides to achieve acceptable maintenance cycles.

If you were to replace the pulley faces you would find that withing a few thousand miles they would look just like those you now have. Mine was just as you describe at 12.3k miles when I got the scoot, now at 27k miles it is no worse...
Yeah I was thinking I'd just put it back together and see how it ran.

Ya think I should just put the old belt back on or go with the new one?

Do I need to worry about the fact that I buffed the black stuff off the pulleys?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ralph M said:
Have you had a look at the clutch in the rear pulley.
Kind of... I've only seen what I could while it was on the bike as I haven't removed the back pulleys. Guess I should remove and inspect but was not looking forward to putting it back on.

I dont have a tool to keep it from rolling and was going to rely on the parking brake and a big strap wrench when torqueing the pulleys back on.

Hoping that works ok.
 

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To me at least it sounds more clutch than belt and for the extra work it's got to
be worth a look and maybe a little grease in the bearings wile your there.
 

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slingerr said:
...I dont have a tool to keep it from rolling and was going to rely on the parking brake and a big strap wrench when torqueing the pulleys back on...
That was my thoughts a few years ago...to use a strap wrench. Then just before putting a lot of torque on the variator nut, I noticed something. The place where the handle attaches to the strap was going to be forced hard into just one of the fins. It was sure to snap off.

That's when I started looking at using an impact wrench. You can pick up an electric impact wrench at Harbor Freight for $49.99 on sale right now. If you don't feel particularly comfortable with not being able to check the torque, (or your ham-fisted ;) ), they have their "Torque Limiting Extension" sets on sale too for $70.

You use the same socket for both the variator nut and the clutch nut. You could pull the clutch bell off in just a few minutes (really...like 3 minutes) while you're in that area and look at the condition of your clutch shoes. I'd also use a light and see if you can look at the clutch springs. At your mileage, they should be fine. But at your mileage, you shouldn't have felt that "bump". The only thing I can think of that would cause a "bump", is a broken clutch spring or loose clutch pad.

As the others have said, the black mark is normal. Don't sweat it. You will want to clean out the area behind the variator where the weights lie. They'll be packed in black dust. Don't breathe the stuff in, or you could be a candidate for one of those commercials about mesothelioma. I can't imagine the dust is good for you. If you decide to go with Dr. Pulley weights, I'd recommend the 18 gram weights.

Chris
 

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You use the same socket for both the variator nut and the clutch nut. You could pull the clutch bell off in just a few minutes (really...like 3 minutes) while you're in that area and look at the condition of your clutch shoes. I'd also use a light and see if you can look at the clutch springs. At your mileage, they should be fine. But at your mileage, you shouldn't have felt that "bump". The only thing I can think of that would cause a "bump", is a broken clutch spring or loose clutch pad.

As the others have said, the black mark is normal. Don't sweat it. You will want to clean out the area behind the variator where the weights lie. They'll be packed in black dust. Don't breathe the stuff in, or you could be a candidate for one of those commercials about mesothelioma. I can't imagine the dust is good for you. If you decide to go with Dr. Pulley weights, I'd recommend the 18 gram weights.

Chris[/quote]
agreed, variator should be ok, belt, if it's still in tolerance, ok but that clutch really needs investigating more thoroughly and it is too easy to do not to do it, a lot easier than growing new skin , and if nothing is wrong, you haven't even wasted the time because you will have given it a good cleaning, which it needs occasionally if you have belt dust accumulation , the tutorials here are magnificent for doing this sort of thing and if you have a laptop and wifi, it's like having a mechanic standing over your shoulder,

if not just bring it in the house, don't worry about belt dust in the carpet or furniture, the girlfriend will have it all cleaned up before you visit next time
 

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hey daboo why the 18gr weights? am 6"1' 240 pounds what u recommend am more looking for accleration but wouldnt mind a lower rpm when doing a 70mph or 75.... thanx for th help in advance
 

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You could go with 19 gram DPS weights. I use them and prefer them. The difference doesn't seem to be that dramatic between 18 and 19 gram weights. The 18 gram weights will give you a bit more sprightly acceleration in town if you twist the throttle enough. Both will raise your in town rpms about 300-500 rpms over what you'll have with the OEM roller weight. Both will lower the highway cruising rpms from what the OEM roller weights will give you.

The 19 gram DPS weights will lower that highway cruising rpm (assuming a new CVT belt) to about 5300. The 18 gram DPS weights will lower it to about 5500, if I remember right. At the same 70 mph indicated, the OEM roller weights will be at about 6800...again, if I remember right. It's been a couple years now since I used the OEM roller weights. The point is that either the 18 and the 19 gram DPS weights will lower the highway cruising rpms by about 1000 from what the OEM roller weights will do.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #11
UPDATE: Finally fixing it this weekend. COld weather has a way of slowing me down, LOL

The noise was my clutch. Got a new clutch coming in and mechanic friend says he can buff out or turn the bell housing so we can reuse it. Ill attach photos.

Mechanics at Honda dealer next door to my job said I needed new front and back pulleys but since many of you guys seem to be saying not to worry about the spot where the belt rides I'm gonna forgo that for now and concentrate on the clutch.

Hopefully I can get by with out spending $200 on the clutch bell housing.




Thoughts anyone?
Plan on also adding doc pulley sliders.
 

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It oughta feel & run a lot smoother with a new clutch
& a cleaned-up clutch bell.
Has the belt ever been changed?
 

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That is the "infamous" 2007 3-shoe clutch, one of those things that really has to make you ponder the acumen of Suzuki's engineers. I am astounded that is wore that much in 12.5k miles.

Everything else visible in the photos look fine (very clean), the bell will be OK with just a touch of Metalite cloth to break the odd glazing. If the proposed replacement is another 3-shoe clutch "just say no" and tell 'em you want a 5-shoe unit...
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Duster said:
It oughta feel & run a lot smoother with a new clutch
& a cleaned-up clutch bell.
Has the belt ever been changed?

No I don't think the belt has been changed and I do have a new one.
However the old seems to be in very good shape.

May hold off on changing it for now.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
cliffyk said:
That is the "infamous" 2007 3-shoe clutch, one of those things that really has to make you ponder the acumen of Suzuki's engineers. I am astounded that is wore that much in 12.5k miles.

Everything else visible in the photos look fine (very clean), the bell will be OK with just a touch of Metalite cloth to break the odd glazing. If the proposed replacement is another 3-shoe clutch "just say no" and tell 'em you want a 5-shoe unit...
I would have ordered the five shoe clutch but was told by the place I ordered it from that the five shoe clutch needs the newer bell housing and because I am attempting to "recondition" my old bell housing I went with the old three shoe clutch.

If we can't recondition the old bell housing I'll return the three shoe and order the five shoe and a new bell housing to go with it.
 

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I had less noise and shuttering with my 07 400 clutch than with either of the 08s I owned. I traded it at +20K miles and the shoes looked good at that time. I also was running lighter rollers and for a while a J Costa, so the rpms at take off were higher than stock for those +20K miles.
 

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I would take it to a trusted Suzuki dealer, one that sells a lot of Burgman 400's-----replace clutch parts with OEM, 6 year old bike needs new belt-----my 2011 left over required new front pulley and rollers, spun outer rear clutch bearing------all at 20,000 miles--I did get 20,000 out of belt-----Warrany paid of all but belt which is considered wear item----having put near 300,000 rubber band drive scooters, since 1990----their drive line problems and expenses of new belt every 14,500 miles can be a very expensive hobby----if you ride a lot. The right motorcycle can be cheaper to run.....but your feet get wet.
 
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