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Discussion Starter #1
after replacing ECM scoot still running bad. Will start on center stand and rev up to red line. Will idle for several minutes then die like I turned it off . Took a ride yesterday around the block and it ran perfectly for about 3 blocks then bogged down and got home only at enough throttle to keep it moving.. I now suspect a short in the wiring harness leading into the ECM.
Please offer suggestions on how to trace back from the Ecm.
Another option I am considering is replacing the wiring harness. Please share with me any experience or suggestions . Time and effort is not a concern to me as I am retired and working on the scoot provides good exercise both physical and mental.
Dealer said I needed to replace the STRVA. Have made an offer on a used STRVA but I think mine is working properly. I turn the key and can hear the strva engaging...takes about 2 seconds for it to cycle...the scoot then starts .
Occasionally I let it run on the center stand for several minutes...if it dies i sometimes have to engage the dealer mode switch after which she starts right up.(I have installed the mode switch in the panel.)
Thanks for your thoughts, Wicker in San antonio
 

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When you say it revs to redline is that on its own or are you revving it? I'm not convinced it is a wire problem. It sounds like it starts acting up consistently when it warms up. Intermittent wiring issues tend to be more random, like it will be fine for an hour and fail, and next time after 5 minutes, then work fine for a day, for example.

That said, by far, the most common wiring harness issues are a bad connection in a connector, or an abrasion where the harness rubs against the frame or a sharp edge. (Assuming there are no unusual circumstances like rodent damage or the bike has been submerged.) With a little time and effort you should be able to check for those things. If you examine every part of the cable, and cycle all the connectors (checking for loose wires and corrosion) and it still behaves just the same, you need to look elsewhere.
 
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Really, you need a wiring diagram of your bike, a good Volt/Ohm meter and time to go one wire at a time and check EVERY connector in between.

I have seen a corrored connector that worked 100% until it heated up due to resistance and then 'POOF' it went 60% bad in a split second. When cooled down, back to 100% good.
 
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Discussion Starter #5
you have an error code?
Error code “f1”.
When you say it revs to redline is that on its own or are you revving it? I'm not convinced it is a wire problem. It sounds like it starts acting up consistently when it warms up. Intermittent wiring issues tend to be more random, like it will be fine for an hour and fail, and next time after 5 minutes, then work fine for a day, for example.

That said, by far, the most common wiring harness issues are a bad connection in a connector, or an abrasion where the harness rubs against the frame or a sharp edge. (Assuming there are no unusual circumstances like rodent damage or the bike has been submerged.) With a little time and effort you should be able to check for those things. If you examine every part of the cable, and cycle all the connectors (checking for loose wires and corrosion) and it still behaves just the same, you need to look elsewhere.
It will rev to redline with throttle input not on its own. I can run it up to 40 mph on the stand and it will run fine until I shut it off. But when I run around the block,it will falter after about 2-300 yards and cough and sputter and not advance above 1500-2000 rpm...then I have to nurse it back home. It makes me think that the vibration on the street may be causing a wiring short. When I get back in the garage and on the center stand it will start up and run fine...although I may have to use the dealer mode switch to start up.
There are no abrasions in the wiring harness and it looks good...never been exposed to water flood or the like.
Afterthought- I did run over a curb which put me down and broke the windscreen after whichi started having problems. I rode the bike home with no problem..only damage was scuffing on the front fender. Rode it for several weeks before I started having my current problems.
I have a wiring diagram diagram and a voltmeters. Think I will strip the wiring harness back starting at the ECM connector and see what I find.
Thanks for the suggestions,Wayne wick
 

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Wayne, before you spend any more money trying to fix this, maybe a local San Antonio member can drop over and help.
Buffalo is about 300 miles Northeast of you so too far but there are a few in your area.
 

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from the very smart folks here, I learned that its an "Fi" code fault indication warning. you have to put it in dealer mode so you get a readout of the code/problem, example, c28, do you have a dealer plug in module? use a paper clip if you need to. search it here at the top on how to.

"although I may have to use the dealer mode switch to start up."

explain this please? never

wiring harness/ckp/throttle body (stva) those are the things that need to be checked.
since spark is consistent and doesnt cut out, maybe ckp is not the issue. I did have spark cutting (ckp issue) when it would go over bumps. but it would cut out and not start till after a while. afterhwile it wouldnt at all.


as Dave said, youll have to check the wiring. I think its something with stva or even dirty injector. didja try some seafoam?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
from the very smart folks here, I learned that its an "Fi" code fault indication warning. you have to put it in dealer mode so you get a readout of the code/problem, example, c28, do you have a dealer plug in module? use a paper clip if you need to. search it here at the top on how to.

"although I may have to use the dealer mode switch to start up."

explain this please? never

wiring harness/ckp/throttle body (stva) those are the things that need to be checked.
since spark is consistent and doesnt cut out, maybe ckp is not the issue. I did have spark cutting (ckp issue) when it would go over bumps. but it would cut out and not start till after a while. afterhwile it wouldnt at all.


as Dave said, youll have to check the wiring. I think its something with stva or even dirty injector. didja try some seafoam?
Explain why use mode switch to start....sometimes when I have run it on its stand pretty hard and it dies, then it won’t start but if I use the mode switch it starts immediately . I have the switch permanently mounted so if it dies when I am test riding and won’t start , the mode switch has always worked for me??? I am curious why..makes me think the ecm is wacky but I have switched that out just recently.
 

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F1 is not a DTC (diagnostic trouble code). The FI (Fuel Injection) DTC (Diagnostic Trouble Codes) are CXX (XX being a number). You need to get that code to begin to diagnose what the ECM thinks is wrong. Until then, you're just guessing and doing expensive tryagnostics wasting time and $.

91420
 

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Discussion Starter #10
from the very smart folks here, I learned that its an "Fi" code fault indication warning. you have to put it in dealer mode so you get a readout of the code/problem, example, c28, do you have a dealer plug in module? use a paper clip if you need to. search it here at the top on how to.

"although I may have to use the dealer mode switch to start up."

explain this please? never

wiring harness/ckp/throttle body (stva) those are the things that need to be checked.
since spark is consistent and doesnt cut out, maybe ckp is not the issue. I did have spark cutting (ckp issue) when it would go over bumps. but it would cut out and not start till after a while. afterhwile it wouldnt at all.


as Dave said, youll have to check the wiring. I think its something with stva or even dirty injector. didja try some seafoam?
I think my STRVA is working fine although the dealer wants me to replace it. I have removed the STVA ,and it is in excellent condition,the white plastic teeth are perfect. When I start the bike I turn the key on and then the red start button and listen for the strva to engage and run through its cycle..about 2 seconds....then engage the starter.. she starts up like new.
Wick
 

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Discussion Starter #12
J, how do I access these codes? I am getting no codes matter I can’t even get my mileage to come up on the display. Someone else reported the inability to get his mileage to come up.
Thanks. Wick San Antonio
 

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Wayne, THIS LINK would be quite helpful if you do not already have it. Save the pdf for future reference.

Didn't you say in post #8 that you have a dealer mode switch? When you turn power the bike on and the FI light is on, activate that switch, the dash should then display the DTC in a few seconds.

Below in pictures is what my 07 did when I unplugged the fuel injector connector...

Key turned on, engine not running. FI light illuminated (blinking) and FI displayed on dash
91421


Jumpered the black with white stripe wire and white with red stripe wire of the dealer mode coupler (this is what the dealer mode switch does)
91422


FI on the dash changes to C32 Fuel injector signal
91423


Reconnected the fuel injector connector and cycled power, C00 (no faults present) is displayed on the dash
91424
 

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Finding bad wire, As the Marines are fond of saying about a true tale, This is no shiP, I once had to find a break in a wire in an aircraft section 30 ft long, 20 ft high and 15 ft wide, We opened what access panels we could, disconnected the components on both ends of the wire, and attached a 24 volt humongous battery to both ends, and looked for the smoke, we found it!
Luckily that wire was the only one damaged and the reprimand I got was verbal , the commendation was written ,but didn't mention smoke.
 
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Discussion Starter #15
you have an error code?
Finding bad wire, As the Marines are fond of saying about a true tale, This is no shiP, I once had to find a break in a wire in an aircraft section 30 ft long, 20 ft high and 15 ft wide, We opened what access panels we could, disconnected the components on both ends of the wire, and attached a 24 volt humongous battery to both ends, and looked for the smoke, we found it!
Luckily that wire was the only one damaged and the reprimand I got was verbal , the commendation was written ,but didn't mention smoke.
Wayne, THIS LINK would be quite helpful if you do not already have it. Save the pdf for future reference.

Didn't you say in post #8 that you have a dealer mode switch? When you turn power the bike on and the FI light is on, activate that switch, the dash should then display the DTC in a few seconds.

Below in pictures is what my 07 did when I unplugged the fuel injector connector...

Key turned on, engine not running. FI light illuminated (blinking) and FI displayed on dash
View attachment 91421

Jumpered the black with white stripe wire and white with red stripe wire of the dealer mode coupler (this is what the dealer mode switch does)
View attachment 91422

FI on the dash changes to C32 Fuel injector signal
View attachment 91423

Reconnected the fuel injector connector and cycled power, C00 (no faults present) is displayed on the dash
View attachment 91424
I received the replacement STVA from Matt on eBay today and installed it . Scoot will start now and idles about 1800-2000 rpm... a little rough but runs.

I am getting 2 codes C21 IAT sensor and C40 idle air control valve. Can’t find any information on that except Haynes says to check resistance between the wire coupling a and the contact points on the valve. Have tried that but don’t get any reading on my voltmeter.. the manual says it should be 80 ohms.
I am probably not touching the right points for the test. I stuck a safety pin in the connector and touched the probe to it then touched the black probe to the pin in the valve (according to Haynes instructions)
Would appreciate any tutorial on this procedure or any other check u suggest.

PS anybody else is welcome to contact me from hot San Antonio.

Milagratsi, Wick from hot San Antonio
 

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Idle RPM - This may be a manifestation of the C40 DTC. Try an idle relearn or what the Service Manual calls ISC valve pre-set. See page 1C-6 (143 or 475) in the link I provided previously. This may be what is setting the C40 DTC.

C40 Idle Air Control Valve - Double check the connectors on the throttle body. See pages 1A-21 Engine General Information and Diagnosis, 1A-55 Engine General Information and Diagnosis, and Engine Electrical Devices: 1C-6 ISC Valve Inspection B705H11306027 Inspect the ISC valve.

C21 IAT Sensor - I'll wager you've had the airbox removed, perhaps the sensor is not connected? If not, see page 1A-39 Engine General Information and Diagnosis in the link I posted previously.

The beauty of a proper pdf of the Service Manual is it is searchable. Press ctrl+f and type what you want to find.
 

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The wires on the IAT sensor come out easily and that particular connector is a pain to separate. Check the wires are still securely crimped and that it is securely connected.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Idle RPM - This may be a manifestation of the C40 DTC. Try an idle relearn or what the Service Manual calls ISC valve pre-set. See page 1C-6 (143 or 475) in the link I provided previously. This may be what is setting the C40 DTC.

C40 Idle Air Control Valve - Double check the connectors on the throttle body. See pages 1A-21 Engine General Information and Diagnosis, 1A-55 Engine General Information and Diagnosis, and Engine Electrical Devices: 1C-6 ISC Valve Inspection B705H11306027 Inspect the ISC valve.

C21 IAT Sensor - I'll wager you've had the airbox removed, perhaps the sensor is not connected? If not, see page 1A-39 Engine General Information and Diagnosis in the link I posted previously.

The beauty of a proper pdf of the Service Manual is it is searchable. Press ctrl+f and type what you want to find.
J, I do have the air box removed. I I’ll connect the sensor and just set the box near enough to reach....putting the box back on is a pita.
I will look up the refs u suggested.
I have used the mode switch reset several times...in fact if I can’t get it to restart I try a reset and or disconnect the battery one usually works. Since I installed the strva I got on eBay it starts very good....only just now on short trip it ran like a top until I applied a lot of throttle and it bogged down and limped home. It is funny I can rev it up to red line on the center stand with no hiccups. And when I leave the house it takes throttle right off up to 30mph or so but when I try to accelerate more it coughs and sputters and I have to nurse it home at idle speed.
Haynes says to check the IACvalve resistance pos to blk/lt green....neg to green terminal should read 80ohms...I can not get any reading but I am no sure I am doing it right. I have stuck safety pins in the connector and just touched the pins...but no reading.
Then it says pos probe to pink/white wire and neg to white/black wire terminal. I cannot get reading from either test. I have 3 voltmeters and the all do the same
Thanks for the pointers, I will now see if I can find your references in the maintenance manual👆Wick
 

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Discussion Starter #19
J, I do have the air box removed. I I’ll connect the sensor and just set the box near enough to reach....putting the box back on is a pita.
I will look up the refs u suggested.
I have used the mode switch reset several times...in fact if I can’t get it to restart I try a reset and or disconnect the battery one usually works. Since I installed the strva I got on eBay it starts very good....only just now on short trip it ran like a top until I applied a lot of throttle and it bogged down and limped home. It is funny I can rev it up to red line on the center stand with no hiccups. And when I leave the house it takes throttle right off up to 30mph or so but when I try to accelerate more it coughs and sputters and I have to nurse it home at idle speed.
Haynes says to check the IACvalve resistance pos to blk/lt green....neg to green terminal should read 80ohms...I can not get any reading but I am no sure I am doing it right. I have stuck safety pins in the connector and just touched the pins...but no reading.
Then it says pos probe to pink/white wire and neg to white/black wire terminal. I cannot get reading from either test. I have 3 voltmeters and the all do the same
Thanks for the pointers, I will now see if I can find your references in the maintenance manual👆Wick
J,my grandson who is a mechanic for Holt caterpillar helped me run the test on the IAC valve and it gave a good reading 80-90 ohms😄. I plan to remove the ISC valve and inspect valve ,clean and lube it and see if that helps🤞..
I had it running today and it ran horribly...would not accelerate above 2500 rpm and coughed and chocked down to barely idle. I removed the strva , reset it by mitch’s Method and next I plan to work on the ISC valve.
Wish me luck, wick
 

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Is the FI light off now?

If yes, I'm thinking you have a fuel supply problem. What's the inside of your fuel tank look like? I'm guessing you have enough tupperware removed, pull the fuel pump out and look inside...you might need a mirror, but I'm thinking there's grit garbage inside the tank and the fuel filter inside the fuel pump assembly is plugged. Just a WAG...
 
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