[Badgator]

FIXED DRIVE FACE, MOVABLE DRIVE FACE, MOVABLE DRIVE SPACER, MOVABLE DRIVE PLATE, MOVABLE DRIVE PLATE DAMPER, DRIVE V BELT, tOTAL ON THESE ITEMS COME TO 270.48 FOR OEM PARTS IS THERE A RECOMMENDATION OUT THERE FOR SOMETHING A TAD BIT BETTER .that won't cost me more $$$$'s but willing to pay a lil more for something that might last a lil bit longer this does not include my Roller weights which i have already purchased and my new clutch as always i appreciate and look forward to some great HELP :thumbup:

 

[Duster]

For a better price on a 400 drive belt, check
http://www.ScooterWest.com
item #DB30-GAT...Burgman 400 GATES brand Drive Belt..$89.95 for 2006 & prior.
They have some pretty good prices on a number of Burgman parts.
These are the folks I got my Leo Vince 4Road exhaust system from
when it was on sale.
Also check Ebay...there is currently somebody listing a new Malossi drive belt
for a Burgman 400 for $75...don't know how long that listing will be there.

 

[Badgator]

Should i put OEM parts back in it or should i use Malosi parts if so does Malosi make it for the 2004 burgie and does anyone know where i can get a Scooter Clutch-Spring Compressor and a socket to get this massive nut off my old clutch

 

[NormanB]

malossi parts Linky

 

[Duster]

Clutch parts from '03 to '06 are all the same...interchangable.
The Malossi belt specified for those years will work fine.
In the How To thread here, micbergsma has posted a video
on changing clutches, & how he compresses the spring
to get the big nut off....the nut itself just takes a big
wrench or socket.
Check out the How To thread...lots of good information there.

 

[Daboo]

Sorry, I took longer than NormanB or Duster to finish the post, so you'll see some duplication here.

I don't have the older model 400, but I really wonder if you need all those parts. Can you post some pictures of your existing parts that need replacing? One that would be very revealing, is if you can put a straight edge against the face of the variator you want to replace. If you have problems with posting those, just PM me and we can work it out.

Your profile shows you have 27 miles. Is that missing a few digits? I took the advice of a vendor who used to be on here a couple years ago and ordered all the parts you have listed. When I got to about 29,000 miles and put the new variator pulleys in...and noticed no difference. I took them back out and left the originals in till I sold the bike at 49,000 miles. Any "groove" that had been there, wore off as the belt moved over the ridge till it was smooth.

You could buy Malossi parts. They are good...but more money. I doubt they'll give you that much more "bang for the buck". A better investment would be to buy the 18 gram Dr Pulley Sliding weights.

Regarding the clutch spring compressor...it's not needed. Take a look at Mitch's (micbergsma) video on replacing the clutch. It is for the 2007+ model, but it shows a couple still pictures of me holding the clutch down as I thread the nut on to the driven pulley. That huge looking spring isn't hard to hold down with your feet. Just make sure you put something on the floor under it so you don't mar the driven pulley on the bottom surface.

One note...I tried to take a short cut, thinking it would make no difference...and almost ruined a pricey part. I started the threads by hand, then instead of tightening the nut the rest of the way, I just used the impact wrench on it. I'd advise tightening it as far as you can by hand, then with a socket wrench. Then use an impact wrench if that's the way you're doing the final "torque". Also, you might want to look at the rest of Mitch's video. While it is for a 2007, it will be very helpful for ideas as you do the same on your 2004. Mitch also did some videos for the earlier model 400 and might have one specifically for yours.

Chris

 

[Badgator]

yeah i'll take some pics

 

[Badgator]

here's a few more to follow ty

 

[Badgator]

more ty

 

[Badgator]

last one's

 

[Badgator]

its suppose to show on there 27,776 not sure why only 27 sorry for the incovenience and the messed up profile

 

[model28a]

Not sure, but I believe if you put a coma in(27,776) it will only show 27. Try putting 27776 in and I bet it will work.

 

[Badgator]

i think i just did straight up 27000 now

 

[cliffyk]

I do not see anything there that would call for replacement of the drive pulley faces, or the spacer--they can all be cleaned up to as good as new. Use crocus cloth on the spacer.

To refurbish the drive and driven pulley assemblies I would order these parts (see diagram below):

 #4 - 21124-15F00   seal, movable drive                        $6.39 x 2 = $12.78;
#14 - 21245-15F00   O-ring, movable driven                     $3.03 x 2 = $6.06
#15 - 21247-15F00   seal, movable driven                       $6.66 x 2 = $12.32;

#11 - 21214-15F00   roller bearing (inner driven pully)        $23.68;
#22 - 08123-69047   ball bearing (outer driven pulley)         $11.75
#23 - 08331-4137A   cir-clip (may be damaged in removal)       $1.34

and perhaps

 #7 - 21481-14F00   damper, movable drive                      $4.39 x 4 = $17.56
        (if worn or deformed)
#29 - 09262-35064 ball bearing (outboard driven)               $35.25
        (if not operating smoothly)

The clutch bell needs to be inspected. It should of course not be badly scored, its inner diameter should be 150.0 to 150.2 mm, with a 150.5 service limit--per "the book". However I would not buy a new bell if it were at that limit and it still worked well...

 

[Aladinbama]

When faced with changing the clutch I just took it to the dealer and they did it for $20 bucks (housing etc. removed from the bike). I thought it was worth not getting a headache over. You may want to replace the rear bearing AFTER you get it back though - I think they tinged mine when they pulled the clutch.

 

[Badgator]

would everyone agree i should replace the roller weights with 2613-18g i had 20g's but they seem might be to much for my 04 dunno

 

[cliffyk]

would everyone agree i should replace the roller weights with 2613-18g i had 20g's but they seem might be to much for my 04 dunno

It depends on what you want in terms of performance: maximised acceleration or lowest possible engine rpms at higher speeds . The 18g sliders will improve acceleration with some reduction in high speed engine rpm, but not as much as the 20g sliders. Here is more about my experience with the 18g sliders versus the 19g OEM rollers.

A related issue is that I and others have found that the hooked tip of the "fingers" on the variator ramp plate need to be ground down to prevent damage to the sliders. Here is more about that.

With the aggressively modified ramp plate the engine will rev to 6000 to 6200 rpm at full throttle take-off and hold that up to 60 mph. As the engine's maximum torque output is attained at 6000 rpm this is the optimal arrangement for maximum acceleration--which was my goal. This can, with a lot of "heavy wristed" take-offs, knock the fuel economy down to 55 mpg; however generally I get 60 mpg quite consistently--65+ with a lot of 70-75 mph highway miles per fill-up...

 

[Badgator]

i also have another question .the little cover that you put on last with the 4 screws it has 4 little metal tabs should these tabs be up a lil or down to hold plat better in place

 

[Badgator]

would everyone agree i should replace the roller weights with 2613-18g i had 20g's but they seem might be to much for my 04 dunno

It depends on what you want in terms of performance: maximised acceleration or lowest possible engine rpms at higher speeds . The 18g sliders will improve acceleration with some reduction in high speed engine rpm, but not as much as the 20g sliders. Here is more about my experience with the 18g sliders versus the 19g OEM rollers.

A related issue is that I and others have found that the hooked tip of the "fingers" on the variator ramp plate need to be ground down to prevent damage to the sliders. Here is more about that.

With the aggressively modified ramp plate the engine will rev to 6000 to 6200 rpm at full throttle take-off and hold that up to 60 mph. As the engine's maximum torque output is attained at 6000 rpm this is the optimal arrangement for maximum acceleration--which was my goal. This can, with a lot of "heavy wristed" take-offs, knock the fuel economy down to 55 mpg; however generally I get 60 mpg quite consistently--65+ with a lot of 70-75 mph highway miles per fill-up...

so cliff your running the 2613-18g then

 

[cliffyk]

so cliff your running the 2613-18g then

Yes.

As for the fingers on the retainer, I have come to believe that they are just an assembly aid used at the factory. Bent inward to hold the variator partially closed, so that the rollers do not fall out of place on the assembly line. The retainer is thin gauge mild steel, I.e. there is no way those fingers can/could serve to limit the movable pulley face's range of axial travel. In fact I purposely bent them inward to 30° or so in once; and on next disassembly found them bent outward 10 to 15°.

Others here have had one or more break off and have been running without them for thousands on miles...