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I always use a I use a torque wrench

  • I use a torque wrench about 50 % of the time

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  • Whats a torque wrench ?

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I voted "What's a torque wrench". Of course I do really know what a torque wrench is, and I even own one. But it is huge, and it isn't calibrated right for use on the scooter - so I never use it.

I need to get one that is smaller, easy to set/read, and calibrated in the same scale that the Suzuki service manuals use. Then I would use it 50% of the time...

Any suggestions on a great wrench?
 

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ditto

what Pauljo said....except that I didn't vote.

Al
 

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My son bought one to save money by changing his transmission fluid & filter.
Net savings- Cost me $3000 to replace transmission after bolt heads fell off. Had to drive 150 miles each way to pick him up & then again to pick up car after it was fixed.
Reminds me of Jed Clampett telling Jethro. "Don't help me boy."
 

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I use my torque wrench whenever I can. This means for most standard bolts. I havent got an Allen Key socket to fit all the metric sizes required for the Burgman so I go by feel and a dab of blue loctite.
 

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pauljo said:
I voted "What's a torque wrench". Of course I do really know what a torque wrench is, and I even own one. But it is huge, and it isn't calibrated right for use on the scooter - so I never use it.

I need to get one that is smaller, easy to set/read, and calibrated in the same scale that the Suzuki service manuals use. Then I would use it 50% of the time...

Any suggestions on a great wrench?
Mine only goes "down to" 10 ft pounds. Craftsmen has a NICE DIGITAL fron only 5 ft pounds up to 80 for $89.95. I just don't need it though when I consider I only know of 1 single bolt that is UNDER my 10 ft pound existing wrence. That's my Tranny drain plug at 8 ft pounds. Think I'll GUESS and save the $90.00 + tax for Beer?
 

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Pappy said:
Mine only goes "down to" 10 ft pounds. Craftsmen has a NICE DIGITAL fron only 5 ft pounds up to 80 for $89.95. I just don't need it though when I consider I only know of 1 single bolt that is UNDER my 10 ft pound existing wrence. That's my Tranny drain plug at 8 ft pounds. Think I'll GUESS and save the $90.00 + tax for Beer?
I'll have to check Sears - most of my tools are Craftsman. I wonder how much of that $90 is for the digital feature... I may not need that.

Do any of these torque wrenches work in a way where you preset the torque you want, and then they clutch slip when that torque is reached? Or do you always have to read the torque off of an indicator or dial?

My old wrench has a pointer that moves along a scale. I don't find it that easy to read. But that wrench is over 20 years old - and I doubt that it was top of the line even back then.
 

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pauljo said:
Pappy said:
Mine only goes "down to" 10 ft pounds. Craftsmen has a NICE DIGITAL fron only 5 ft pounds up to 80 for $89.95. I just don't need it though when I consider I only know of 1 single bolt that is UNDER my 10 ft pound existing wrence. That's my Tranny drain plug at 8 ft pounds. Think I'll GUESS and save the $90.00 + tax for Beer?
I'll have to check Sears - most of my tools are Craftsman. I wonder how much of that $90 is for the digital feature... I may not need that.

Do any of these torque wrenches work in a way where you preset the torque you want, and then they clutch slip when that torque is reached? Or do you always have to read the torque off of an indicator or dial?

My old wrench has a pointer that moves along a scale. I don't find it that easy to read. But that wrench is over 20 years old - and I doubt that it was top of the line even back then.
The following show 3 wrenches. I have the 1st, NEED the 2nd, THINK you may have the 3rd?
Sears Catalog - Torque Wrenches
 

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I checked with my shop Forman today (auto repair shop) about using an "extension" along with a torque wrench. The shop agrees, torque setting does NOT have to be "ADJUSTED" in any way to compensate for using any extension. The change would be "negligible". My guys are NOT genius, but for THIS, I trust em enough, Mike
 

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Pappy said:
The shop agrees, torque setting does NOT have to be "ADJUSTED" in any way to compensate for using any extension. The change would be "negligible".
As long as said extension does not add or subtract to the length of the arm of the torque wrench, there will be no change needed.

But if the extension does add or subtract to the length of the torque wrench, then there will be a need to do some math.


Where
Tw = Torque indicated
Ta = Torque applied
L = Lever Length of wrench
E = Arm length of adapter

When adding to the length of the torque wrench;

Tw = Ta * L / L + E

When subtracting from the length of the torque wrench;

Tw = Ta * L / L - E

I don't know where they get "Neglible" from, it's either no change, or considerable change, depending on the type of extension being used.

I guess that's the difference between car/bike mechanics and aircraft mechanics. If the car/bike breaks because of a mistake the mechanic makes, the mechanic gets more money from the customer. If I make a mistake, I get fined and/or jail time. (Not to mention the guilt for the rest of my life... Plus my license would be yanked.)

Oh, as far as using torque wrenches on the bike. Naaah, not yet. I'd use it on the wheels, and if I overhauled the engine, but not for drain plugs and the like... Have yet to have something fall off. I have several different types of wrenches for different reasons, click type, deflecting beam, dial indicator, all calibrated for seven more months, or until I drop 'em. (That automatically voids the current calibration)
 

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Kias said:
Pappy said:
The shop agrees, torque setting does NOT have to be "ADJUSTED" in any way to compensate for using any extension. The change would be "negligible".
As long as said extension does not add or subtract to the length of the arm of the torque wrench, there will be no change needed.

But if the extension does add or subtract to the length of the torque wrench, then there will be a need to do some math.


Where
Tw = Torque indicated
Ta = Torque applied
L = Lever Length of wrench
E = Arm length of adapter

When adding to the length of the torque wrench;

Tw = Ta * L / L + E

When subtracting from the length of the torque wrench;

Tw = Ta * L / L - E

I don't know where they get "Neglible" from, it's either no change, or considerable change, depending on the type of extension being used.

I guess that's the difference between car/bike mechanics and aircraft mechanics. If the car/bike breaks because of a mistake the mechanic makes, the mechanic gets more money from the customer. If I make a mistake, I get fined and/or jail time. (Not to mention the guilt for the rest of my life... Plus my license would be yanked.)

Oh, as far as using torque wrenches on the bike. Naaah, not yet. I'd use it on the wheels, and if I overhauled the engine, but not for drain plugs and the like... Have yet to have something fall off. I have several different types of wrenches for different reasons, click type, deflecting beam, dial indicator, all calibrated for seven more months, or until I drop 'em. (That automatically voids the current calibration)
Appreciate the expertise here! My guys meant negligible in regard to ME screwing up 8 ft pounds on a drain plug on a scooter. They understand I will probably drop MYSELF as quick as the wrench! They also are just waiting for me to break something so they can make me PAY to "EXTRACT" that soft Suzuki bolt they KNOW I'm gonna snap..... :?
 

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Pappy said:
The following show 3 wrenches. I have the 1st, NEED the 2nd, THINK you may have the 3rd?
Yes sir. That cheap one is what I have. I just went to look at it and it is actually a Craftsman. I guess if I have to spend $60 or $70 for the one you have, I should consider spending $90 for the best one. I'll go down to Sears and look tomorrow. That way if I think the one you have is OK for me, I can at least catch it on sale. The one I have is just taking up space in my toolbox - I never use it.
 

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billmeek said:
Pappy,

If you are going to post really long links, might I suggest using the format below :

www.some-really-long-url.com/the-really-long-url-page.htm]Link text to display[/url]

Using one really long link on the page forces the page to be sized where it requires a lot of scrolling left and right.
Bill,

I could probably edit his post & fix it for him, but I don't quite understand the format. The [] brackets enclose the entire link? Or just the first line which ends in "productcompare.isp?"? And what exactly is the "Link text to display" before the trailing [/url]? Is it all the other stuff in the link beginning with "compare="?

I agree that the wide scoll is about as annoying as using a bad torque wrench. But I don't want to mess up Pappy's post if I don't fully understand what I'm doing. I'm html challenged...
 

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In the first URL tag you add an equals sign followed by the entire link. The 'link text to display' is the blue hyperlink that appears on the page.

For example the code :

The Burgman USA Website

will display as :

The Burgman USA Website

and links correctly to the BurgmanUSA homepage.
 

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gruntled said:
My son bought one to save money by changing his transmission fluid & filter.
Net savings- Cost me $3000 to replace transmission after bolt heads fell off. Had to drive 150 miles each way to pick him up & then again to pick up car after it was fixed.
Reminds me of Jed Clampett telling Jethro. "Don't help me boy."


LOL!!!!!!!! That is funny.
 

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pauljo said:
Yow! It worked! Scroll is gone, and amazingly, the link still works.

Pretty slick. Thanks for the help Bill. :wink:
No problem. The tough part was getting the example to display on one line as code and as a working example on another. If you ever need to use brackets in the forum and not want to have it converted to BBcode, [ is a left bracket and ] is a right bracket in html.
 

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You could've also put
Code:
[url=http://some.long.uniform.resource.locator]The Link[/url]
which would give you

Code:
[url=http://some.long.uniform.resource.locator]The Link[/url]
Of course if everyone had a VP2290b Monitor running at 3840x2400, we probably wouldn't even have to worry about it.
 

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pauljo said:
billmeek said:
Pappy,

If you are going to post really long links, might I suggest using the format below :

www.some-really-long-url.com/the-really-long-url-page.htm]Link text to display[/url]

Using one really long link on the page forces the page to be sized where it requires a lot of scrolling left and right.
Bill,

I could probably edit his post & fix it for him, but I don't quite understand the format. The [] brackets enclose the entire link? Or just the first line which ends in "productcompare.isp?"? And what exactly is the "Link text to display" before the trailing [/url]? Is it all the other stuff in the link beginning with "compare="?

Thank you for the tip[.help. But, I'm lost here. Would it help if I use Tiny Url instead? Just discovered that. A bit of work but I don't want to goof this site up! And I thought I was a spaz with a Torque Wrench!!! Mike

I agree that the wide scoll is about as annoying as using a bad torque wrench. But I don't want to mess up Pappy's post if I don't fully understand what I'm doing. I'm html challenged...
 
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