[Edwljoseph]

Last weekend I changed the oil in my 650 along with the transmission oil. Everything went well until I put in the overflow bolt for the transmission. I believe I stripped it. Nedd help and ideas.

My thoughts:

1. Helicoil
2. New bolt with a different thread pitch

BTW What is the bolt size and thread pitch

All of your thoughts and ideas appreciated

 

[allwalk]

You nailed your options right on the nose.

I believe the thread size for the filler hole plug is 8mm - 1.25 but I'm not 100 % on that size. Just 80 % sure Looking at the torque list it's rating is in the 8mm section.

I would go with a helicoil first myself. If that doesnt work then I would go to a larger size. Its used to correctly identify the oil level in the transmission so your best option is to end up with the same size hole, which means helicoil.

An oversize hole would actually start flowing oil earlier. Now I don't think the difference in that small hole size would really effect the volume of oil in there to any great significance. But it's something to think about.

 

[NormanB]

Is not the bolt for the drain the same size as the filler/level one?

I ask because you could identify the thread, buy a 'tap' (thats what we call a female thread cutter over here) and try and 'reset the thread' - it may not be perfect afterwards BUT it may just work and be oil tight - could save a whole lot of heartache and apart from the cost of the tap you will be no worse off than you are now.

Coat the 'tap' in heavy grease to retain any cuttings.

Just my 'quids' worth :wink:

 

[burg650]

NormanB making new threads probably the best thing to get a tight fit with a new bolt but my concern would be while tapping the hole would it not cause shavings off the metal to get in the case. If this happen how would you flush out the case to make sure none is left inside before you fill and start running again, can just see little fragments of metal mixing with the oil and start going all around inside the case.

 

[Stormsteed]

Never mind.

 

[NormanB]

NormanB making new threads probably the best thing to get a tight fit with a new bolt but my concern would be while tapping the hole would it not cause shavings off the metal to get in the case. If this happen how would you flush out the case to make sure none is left inside before you fill and start running again, can just see little fragments of metal mixing with the oil and start going all around inside the case.

Whichever!

If you tap to existing size you are going to create shavings.

If you helicoil you are going to create shavings.

The 100% solution is to do it on the bench either way.

The 99% solution is to use heavy grease to trap the shavings.

In the event the shavings fall inside the gearcase they are soft aluminium - my guess is they would sink to the bottom and draining the oil would carry most out, any that that remain are likely to be harmless to the gearing - but that's just my opinion.

FWIW when I recently sheared a valve cover bolt, I drilled and used an eazi out using strategically placed cloth and heavy grease to catch the debris.

 

[Edwljoseph]

Although I used a torque wrench I believe I over tightened it and stripped it. All your ideas are sound. My thought is to use the same size bolt with perhaps a 1.50 thread pitch and a self tapper. More thoughts?

 

[allwalk]

I just had a second thought.

Is it possible to get a rubber fastener very similar to our windscreen grommet, where you could put it in the open hole and as you tighten it down it expands sealing the hole tight? Just thinking outside the box.

 

[dero]

Removed

 

[Edwljoseph]

Ray:

I used 8 lbs as the setting on the torques wrench.

I tightened it with a wrench until it felt tight. Then I torqued it. It felt tight then loose. I redid it again with the regular socket. Again tight then loose.

It is holding in place but I don't trust it to stay.

Your idea for a longer bolt may work. Any thoughts as to keeping the same diameter but changing the thread pitch

 

[seatec]

I dont think I would use a different thread, may jam in , but just my 2 cents. Others will have a better answer :idea:

 

[Randy]

When you have the size & pitch--get a thread chaser and put it through there--it's just like a tap except it is made more to clean up the threads then cut them, sometimes it works, also I would get a new bolt no matter what..
If that does not work then just "tap" to the next size you should not have to drill the old hole since alum. will cut easy. But check with a machine shop first, it may be better to resize the hole.

 

[Greg]

Edwljoseph,

Some more suggestions ...

If there is more thread in the case then there was bolt length you could simply buy longer bolt same thread and clean up strip thread with bolt with two cuts done the shank to make a cheap tap ...

And or (In Australia that is) buy thread repair putty like aluminium paste to rebuild thread ...

Greg ...

 

[dero]

Removed

 

[Stormsteed]

Never mind.

 

[skootertrash]

torque

seems odd to me that one would need to torque a bolt that is not a fastener. a bolt that don't hold your bike together.

 

[RobK]

Same thing to my Helix...

Eddie,
I did the same thing to my Helix!

I tried the Helicoil... but there is a groove cut into the treads four threads up in the front side of the hole (to alow more oil to drain). The helicoil would not thread past the cut notch. A waste of $$. I ended up getting an "oversize" bolt which taps itself. I put a sealing washer there also...

So far so good -- good luck

Rob

 

[Edwljoseph]

I'm just going to buy an oversized self tapper. metric or sae whichever is closest in size.