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Discussion Starter #1
hey guys. ive searched high and low and just cannot seem to find the specs for the timing for this scooter.its a 2006 burg 400 i mean the specs as in timing marks and locations of them and how to check them. first scooter for me and dont know nothing about them. its different compared to turbo ls engines and my r1. anybody know them off hand or where i can find them.
appreciate the help in advance.
Thanks!!!:D
 

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Are you trying to install the cam or are you trying to get it aligned to set the valve?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
i got the scooter non running. died on decel one day according to the previous owner. its currently shooting flames out of the intake. thought the valves were stuck open but thats not the case. im assuming the timing chain has jumped causing a spark as the intake valves are opening. just trying to verify the alignment before i go buying parts. the scooter was free so im not opposed to spending money on it and getting it running correctly.
 

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If you are trying to align the cam to set the valves then you first need to get it to TDC. To do that look on the back of the generator cover and you will find a plug with a triangle beside it. Remove the plug and turn the engine until the line engraved on the rotor you can see through the hole aligns with the triangle.

Now check the cam. On the chain end of it there are two lines engraved. These should align with the top edge of the head.
 

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I posted while you were posting. The instructions I gave should answer your question though.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
okay i just ran out there to look at the cam gear. there are no marks engraved into the sprocket, only two screws holding on what looks like a moon shaped piece of metal. not sure where to go from here.
 

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The marks are not on the sprocket, they are on the end of the cam it's self.
 

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The lines to which Buffalo referred are on the camshaft, not the pulley:

On the left the view through the generator cover port;
On the right the "lines" on the camshaft:
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
okay the cam is lined up with the head and my mark in the generator cover is lined up and my intake valves are open just a hair. that makes me think that the gear has some how slipped on the camshaft itsself. i know that the cam gear is seperate from the camshaft itsself. is it possible the two have spun on one another?


wife was helping and not following directions. lol cam and crank are perfect. still no start and flames from intake. does anyone know if these bikes had a problem with coils?
 

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okay the cam is lined up with the head and my mark in the generator cover is lined up and my intake valves are open just a hair. that makes me think that the gear has some how slipped on the camshaft itsself. i know that the cam gear is seperate from the camshaft itsself. is it possible the two have spun on one another?


wife was helping and not following directions. lol cam and crank are perfect. still no start and flames from intake. does anyone know if these bikes had a problem with coils?
You have the engine positioned at TDC of the exhaust stroke, the intake valve is just beginning to open in preparation for the intake stroke. It starts to open before exhaust TDC during a period in which both the exhaust and intake valves are open (valve "overlap") so that the vacuum created by the mass of escaping exhaust gasses can be utilized to enhance intake flow.

It is quite unlikely that the cam sprocket has "slipped" on the shaft as it is mounted on two locating pins, and fastened by two bolts:





Turn the crankshaft one more revolution and make sure all valves are closed.

I would next look to things that might affect ignition timing, the crankshaft position sensor being the only sensor that affects spark timing on the 400 (the 400 uses a "wasted spark" ignition system, I.e. the plug fires at TDC of both the compression and exhaust strokes)...
 

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The 400 has an automatic decompression release on the camshaft. That is the thing marked as 1 on the second picture in Cliff's post above. There is a very slim possibility that yours might be sticking. To check it you have to remove the camshaft and manually test that the cam plate 1 moves smoothly and the pin 2 rotates with it.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
mine is not sticking. clean and free. the exhaust rocker is pretty work from the looks of it.
but spark is there because it just shocked me. i discovered the ht lead was partly broken. i fixed the arcing issue i found and she "tried" to start but kept getting the flames from the intake. note that i have the throttle body off but all the sensors and what not are still connected, so no fi light. im not sure where the crank sensor is located. dont have a manual for this thing. anybody know where its located and have any idea what the specs are? thinking i may just go through the whole bike and check every electrical component there is.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
the previous owner told me that he was getting white smoke from the exhaust indicating there was oil getting by the rings. havent compression tested it yet but that may be the next step to find out if the rings are bad.
 

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Yeah, I would run a compression test. It may have swallowed a valve or burned a hole in the piston.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
i noticed when i put more gas then needed down the intake itll puff a little like it wants to start. then the flame show starts. tried pulling the head to inspect valves but cant get the dang timing chain off the cam gear...
thanks for the help this far. learned some good information for next time she breaks.
 

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mine is not sticking. clean and free. the exhaust rocker is pretty work from the looks of it.
but spark is there because it just shocked me. i discovered the ht lead was partly broken. i fixed the arcing issue i found and she "tried" to start but kept getting the flames from the intake. note that i have the throttle body off but all the sensors and what not are still connected, so no fi light. im not sure where the crank sensor is located. dont have a manual for this thing. anybody know where its located and have any idea what the specs are? thinking i may just go through the whole bike and check every electrical component there is.
It will not run with the TB off, if you are just dumping gasoline into the intake and cranking it over then it is behaving just as I would expect it to.

Service manuals are all over the web, here's a link to one on a Russian site...
 

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Discussion Starter #18
thank you for the link cliffyk.
im gonna check that out. didnt think it would matter that its off. i got a few small flames from the intake before the throttle body was even off. thats why i took it off. no change in starting with it on or off. but if i pour more than whats needed itll chug like its trying to start then dies out. compression test this evening and a new piston and rings are headed this way just because it has 30xxx miles on it. could use a "freshen up" im sure.
 

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thank you for the link cliffyk.
im gonna check that out. didnt think it would matter that its off. i got a few small flames from the intake before the throttle body was even off. thats why i took it off. no change in starting with it on or off. but if i pour more than whats needed itll chug like its trying to start then dies out. compression test this evening and a new piston and rings are headed this way just because it has 30xxx miles on it. could use a "freshen up" im sure.
I just today turned 60,600 on my '03--runs like new.

The cranking compression will be somewhat low for a 10.2:1 compression ratio--122 to 128 psi is the spec, with a 88 psi service limit--because of the compression relief mechanism...
 

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Discussion Starter #20
okat cool deal. thanks you for the information!!! will report back when this dang rain stops and i can do some more work to her.
 
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