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I'm looking at a 2008 400 and the guy selling it says the bike does not start to move forward until the rpm's reach a little over 3000. Is this normal? I did not ride the bike, but sitting on it in his driveway it did not move until reaching that level.
Thanks for your help.
 

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It may start moving a bit of 3000 RPMs, but if you don't blip the throttle to around 4,000 - 4,500 RPMs you'll end up glazing the clutch.

These are a centrifical clutch so the shoes have to be "thrown out" against the clutch bell to make contact.
 

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happytech said:
It may start moving a bit of 3000 RPMs, but if you don't blip the throttle to around 4,000 - 4,500 RPMs you'll end up glazing the clutch.

These are a centrifical clutch so the shoes have to be "thrown out" against the clutch bell to make contact.
+5 :thumbup: :thumbup:
 

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up on center stand back wheel is not supposed (required) to move until 2800 to 3200 rpms, don't worry, the bike gets up to killing speed quite quickly and without strain
 

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mikeyMarine said:
up on center stand back wheel is not supposed (required) to move until 2800 to 3200 rpms, don't worry, the bike gets up to killing speed quite quickly and without strain
+1
 

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karl1952 said:
Thanks for the help. This information is very helpful.
this is a great site, we can answer a lot of stuff, a heck of a lot of accumulated knowledge here , and an unbelievably astounding amount of accumulated bullhockey :cheers: welcome aboard
 

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mikeyMarine said:
karl1952 said:
Thanks for the help. This information is very helpful.
this is a great site, we can answer a lot of stuff, a heck of a lot of accumulated knowledge here , and an unbelievably astounding amount of accumulated bullhockey :cheers: welcome aboard
Bullhockey.??????? I think that you mean "BULLPUCKEY
 

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happytech said:
If you don't blip the throttle to around 4,000 - 4,500 RPMs you'll end up glazing the clutch.
I have a few questions regarding this. Can you please give a detailed description of the process?

1) How do you do this without taking off like a rocket?

2) After you blip the throttle, is it safe to let the RPMs come bake down and then slowing take off, or must you accelerate while the RPMs are around 4,000?

3) Is this process only needed during your initial take-off, or should this be done every time you come to a stop?

4) I have a 2011 400. It has a snorkel coming from the CVT filter cover to an air hose to bring in cool air to the CVT. Do I still need to be concerned with the clutch bell overheating if I don't blip the throttle?


Thanks!
 

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sube5186 said:
happytech said:
If you don't blip the throttle to around 4,000 - 4,500 RPMs you'll end up glazing the clutch.
I have a few questions regarding this. Can you please give a detailed description of the process?

1) How do you do this without taking off like a rocket?
YOU KEEP BOTH OF YOUR BRAKES ON.
2) After you blip the throttle, is it safe to let the RPMs come bake down and then slowing take off, or must you accelerate while the RPMs are around 4,000?
NO.........NEVER LET THE RPMs COME DOWN OR YOU WILL CRASH3) Is this process only needed during your initial take-off, or should this be done every time you come to a stop?
NO- 1 TIME IS GOOD ENOUGH4) I have a 2011 400. It has a snorkel coming from the CVT filter cover to an air hose to bring in cool air to the CVT. Do I still need to be concerned with the clutch bell overheating if I don't blip the throttle?

YES- CHECK COLOR OF CLUTCH BELL AFTER EACH RIDE
 

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v8eyedoc said:
2) After you blip the throttle, is it safe to let the RPMs come back down and then slowing take off, or must you accelerate while the RPMs are around 4,000?
NO.........NEVER LET THE RPMs COME DOWN OR YOU WILL CRASH
I'm a little confused. So I'm supposed to release the brakes while the RPMs are at 4,000-4,500 and abruptly take off at that speed?
 

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v8eyedoc is just kidding! You shouldn't have any problems at all in just revving her up to 4000rpm and (without brakes being used to hold her back) she'll take off nice a smooth and you will be incontrol. Keep the throttle constant until you feel the transmission fully engage and you can then wind on more throttle or less. If you need a speedier take off then take her to 4500rpm initially. The bike shouldn't just wizz off uncontrollably, it should all be nice and smooth.
 

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+1

Chris
 

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OK, so all jokes aside, let me see if I have this right. I quickly rev the throttle up to 4,000 RPMs (WITHOUT holding the brakes) and back down, then I can gradually pull off normally?

I also have a sense of humor, but just remember you're dealing with a neophyte. What others obviously see as a joke, I may take literally. :D
 

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sube5186 said:
OK, so all jokes aside, let me see if I have this right. I quickly rev the throttle up to 4,000 RPMs (WITHOUT holding the brakes) and back down, then I can gradually pull off normally?

I also have a sense of humor, but just remember you're dealing with a neophyte. What others obviously see as a joke, I may take literally. :D
[Edited by mod to remove the ALL CAPS comments.]The clutches which are centrifigal do NOT start to grab the clutch bell until the RPM is close to 3,500 to 4,000....!!!!!!! I suggest that you practice in an empty parking lot. AND also read here how the CVT functions.
 

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Wow! Seems like some people have no patience or tolerance for beginners. First I get sarcasm. Then I get yelled at (caps = yelling). If you view my profile you'll see that I only have 168 miles on my Burgie. This is the first motorcycle/scooter I'VE EVER OWNED! Lots of people here have a vast knowledge of this bike. However, no one [Edited by mod to remove the personal attack.] came out of the womb possessing this knowledge. Everybody had to start somewhere. I only asked these questions here instead of on the "Newbie" forum because I didn't see the sense in asking technical questions to a bunch of people who are as inexperienced as I am. [Edited by mod to remove the personal attack.]
 

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Quantum Mechanic said:
v8eyedoc is just kidding! You shouldn't have any problems at all in just revving her up to 4000rpm and (without brakes being used to hold her back) she'll take off nice a smooth and you will be incontrol. Keep the throttle constant until you feel the transmission fully engage and you can then wind on more throttle or less. If you need a speedier take off then take her to 4500rpm initially. The bike shouldn't just wizz off uncontrollably, it should all be nice and smooth.
sube5186 said:
happytech said:
If you don't blip the throttle to around 4,000 - 4,500 RPMs you'll end up glazing the clutch.
I have a few questions regarding this. Can you please give a detailed description of the process?
  • 1) How do you do this without taking off like a rocket?
    2) After you blip the throttle, is it safe to let the RPMs come bake down and then slowing take off, or must you accelerate while the RPMs are around 4,000?
    3) Is this process only needed during your initial take-off, or should this be done every time you come to a stop?
    4) I have a 2011 400. It has a snorkel coming from the CVT filter cover to an air hose to bring in cool air to the CVT. Do I still need to be concerned with the clutch bell overheating if I don't blip the throttle?
Thanks!
Quantum Mechanic did an excellent job of describing what happens. If you look at a video of the CVT in operation, you'll see the belt moves up and down on the front (variator) pulley and the rear (clutch or driven) pulley. It happens constantly depending on the load on the drivetrain and the speed you're doing. If you had enough torque on the engine and normal manual gearing, yes the bike would rocket forward. But you don't have that kind of drivetrain, and your bike won't take off like a rocket.

The rpms need to go up to about 4000-4500 rpms to get the clutch pads to move out and contact the clutch bell. There are springs back there that are pulling them back and the centrifugal force from the rpms is needed to overcome that spring tension. One of the reasons you won't rocket forward is simply that the clutch pads not only have to overcome that spring tension to grip that clutch bell but there has to be enough friction between the pad and the clutch bell to overcome the inertia of getting 470 lbs of scooter plus you moving from a dead stop. It all makes for a drivetrain with some initial slippage.

I use the term "blip", which in my mind simply means to turn the throttle quickly to 4000 rpms. If you get used to a brisk (but not racing, start) you'll find you are blipping the throttle and your rpms are hitting that 4000-4500 rpms point initially. A member back when we were trying to figure out how to not get a squealing clutch in 2007-2008, said his mechanic recommended this. I thought the rpms he told us to use were really high...and then I started paying attention to what I was doing and found that's exactly what I did all the time. And I never got a squealing clutch.

Okay, now that the clutch engages, just adjust your throttle as needed to keep the speed slow or accelerate. You're probably only moving at 5-10 mph. Once you get used to this, you'll find you do this without thinking about it whenever you move forward from a stop. And if you need to only move forward at a crawl like in a traffic jam, then disregard that whole part about "blipping" the throttle. There's nothing that can be done about it except open the throttle gradually and let the clutch pads slip. I've sat in traffic jams for over an hour, barely moving and thinking I could walk faster...and my clutch didn't disintegrate.

The extra snorkel that Suzuki added must be helping on the clutch squealing issue the earlier models sometimes had. IMHO, it was caused by the Suzuki breakin procedure. It seems to be a generic procedure that is easily used on manual transmissions where you can control the rpms...but you can't on a Burgman 400's CVT. By holding the rpms below 4000, the clutch pads slip a lot on the clutch bell. They'll grab eventually, but that slipping generates lots of heat. Enough to turn the metal of the clutch bell a brilliant beautiful blue and glaze the clutch pads so they slip more the next time. I wouldn't think the snorkel would make that much difference, especially when the air seems to come from above the engine which I would think is hot...but the number of members complaining about a squealing clutch did go down a lot. So it shows how much I really know. :lol:

Quantum Mechanic really did a good job explaining all this in much fewer words. If I confused you, just go back to what he said.

Chris
 

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Twist throttle as deemed necessary- ignore the RPMS unless you're on the fwy and are in the RED at 8600... you may want to consider slowing down at that point. :lol:

Honestly, if you're so light on the throttle to spend much time under 4000RPM- perhaps the burgman isn't for you... somhow, I seriously doubt that's the case.

Just twist n never let go.

This method works just as well on my Burgman as any other scoot I've tried- makes me mad I spent all those years driving motorcycles with gears!
 

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To Quantum Mechanic, Daboo and brandonc_mail,

Thank you for your informative and non-judgmental replies. This is exactly the information I was looking for.
 

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Just the other day I tried blipping the throttle before take-off. Worked like a charm! I release it just as the bike starts to take off and set it at whatever I want my acceleration to be. After doing this two or three times, it became instinctive. I noticed it really doesn't take much to get the RPMs to 4,000-4,500.

Hopefully, this will prevent the dreaded "clutch shoe glazing". :thumbup:
 
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