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Urg. That's like asking which brand of motorcycle is the best. My $.02 would be to use a synthetic that is actually based on plant esters, like Motul. But, realize that you're going to be spending a whole lot more money than someone who buys basic oil, and won't see any actual benefit in engine longevity or cooler running temperatures. I have never seen an engine failure that related to the brand of oil used. I have seen several failures that were related on not changing oil, or insufficient oil pressure cause by not keeping enough oil in the motor. I had a sportbike motor that destroyed a crankshaft, but that was a result of the motor being deprived of oil; I crashed at a race track and the bike remained running while lying on its side (I ran to get out of the impact zone).

Here in the Northern US, we save these topics for winter. That way we have something to fight about until the snow melts ;)
 

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I am using a synthetic oil now and changing it every 5k. All of my rides are easy riding which means no interstate or high speed running at all. 60-65 mph tops. Use a good oil and filter, change it close to where the book says to and you will be fine.

I have a Goldwing friend that changes his oil once a year no matter how many miles he has put on it since the last change. He has 300,000+ miles on it now and seems to run as good as it ever did.
 

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i heard someone say once, if you go to synthetic, dont go back to non synthetic or your seals will leak.
Old wife's tale. Go back and forth as often as you wish.

I had a BMW mechanic tried to convince me to use nothing but Amsoil (which he just happened to sell on the side amazingly enough!) if I wanted my R1100RT engine to last. Said another other synthetic oil would certainly bring an early demise to my bike. 11 years and I forget how many miles later when I sold my RT it never had a drop of Amsoil in it and ran as good as ever. Imagine that!
 

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>>I had a BMW mechanic tried to convince me to use nothing but Amsoil<<

Been using it for ~30 years now... cars, trucks, motorcycles, diesels etc.
 

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what's the best oil to put in 650 ex. synthetic or non synthetic
Either is fine as long as it meets the specs set forth by Suzuki. Be sure it is one that is safe for use with a wet clutch.

I've been running Shell Rotella 15W-40 conventional oil in mine and it has functioned well for 110,000+ miles now. Don't know if you can get that in your part of the world though.
 

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I prefer synthetic and I've been running Amsoil in about everything I own for years. It's great quality oil and they do the research necessary on all their oils.

 

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I run the cheapest dino oil I can find. My mechanic pointed out that, as a commuter, I was putting 30k/year on the bike and that translated to changing the oil every five or six weeks. The oil doesn't have time to break down over that period so use the cheap stuff. The fact that I'm constantly changing it makes the type of oil much less relevant.
 
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The reality of the situation is that the vast majority of bikes will never see the benefits of using expensive oil over the cheaper ones. Most will be retired before 50k miles.

I've no doubt the engine on any burgman is fully capable of 100k miles, even 200k or more. But the reality is that a cvt belt will break, or cracked plastics from a crash wont warrant replacement or just plain old wanting something newer, will take the bike permanently out of service before the engine gives out.

Dino oil for me. If I get 75k out of my bikes, I'll call it a win and buy another.
 

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Hey I just woke up and saw this! I better put my expertise and knowledge based solely on my own anal beliefs! I use synthetic in every internal combustion engine I own. Shell Rotella Syn 5w40 in Burgman650, lawnmower, lawn tractor,power washer and generators, everything except my 2 automobiles. They use 0w40 and 0w20. I use Royal Purple 75w90 where 90weight is specified. What sold me on using syn on m/c's is I had a BMW R100GS I bought new. I was on a trip out west and everytime I stop I always feel my tires temp. so I can tell if problems are on the way. I felt the rear diff and it was almost to hot to touch. When I got back home from the trip I changed all fluids and put Royal Purple 75w90 in the diff.. Next trip I went on when I felt the diff and it was definately cooler to the touch. Most of my trips are through the southwest in the summer then to N Cali and back. Nothing scientific but a good test. I am a FAA A&P mechanic so I know about mechanical things. If there is heat, it's caused by friction. Friction robs horsepower even if its minute. I was always told that the cheapest bolt-on performance is to change all lubricating fluids to synthetics. I even do the power steering on my autos. Just sayin'!
 

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i heard someone say once, if you go to synthetic, dont go back to non synthetic or your seals will leak.
They got it backwards if anything. I've had problems using synthetics where the vehicles were old or high mileage where the seals were old and brittle or worn. Switched back to dino and the leaks stopped.

The problems with the 650 almost always have nothing to do with the engine internals. The engine will outlast the rest of the bike regardless of what oil is used (assuming it is serviced regularly).
 

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They got it backwards if anything. I've had problems using synthetics where the vehicles were old or high mileage where the seals were old and brittle or worn. Switched back to dino and the leaks stopped.

The problems with the 650 almost always have nothing to do with the engine internals. The engine will outlast the rest of the bike regardless of what oil is used (assuming it is serviced regularly).
In the old machines, the gaskets had problems with the PAO's found in synthetic oils. That was in the 1970's, and the manufacturers of both the vehicles and oils have resolved those issues. If someone says that to you, ask them if a synthetic blend will make it leak on and off.

I always say oil is like what JP Morgan said about owning stocks - use whatever lets you sleep at night. If that's the most expensive synthetic you can find, go for it. If it's the cheapest oil you can buy in a 50 gallon drum, as long as it meets the specs you should be good to go.
 

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In the old machines, the gaskets had problems with the PAO's found in synthetic oils. That was in the 1970's, and the manufacturers of both the vehicles and oils have resolved those issues. If someone says that to you, ask them if a synthetic blend will make it leak on and off.
I don't think so. I had my first experience with synthetic oil and oil seepage past the seals when the rear main seal leaked on a 85 K100RT BMW. I used Mobil 1 (dry clutch). I changed back to dino and the leak stopped. Dumb as I was, I tried it again on a 1986 R80RT BMW. The push rod tube seals seeped on it (the owner had just put in Synthetic and it started leaking on me in several hundred miles). Again, I changed to dino and the leaking stopped for the 15 years I kept it. Both of the bikes were relatively low miles (for a BMW) with between 40,000 and 50,000 miles on them but they were about 15 years old. The 03 BMW R1200CLC had no problem with synthetic. It had nearly as many miles but was much newer.
 

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I don't think so. I had my first experience with synthetic oil and oil seepage past the seals when the rear main seal leaked on a 85 K100RT BMW. I used Mobil 1 (dry clutch). I changed back to dino and the leak stopped. Dumb as I was, I tried it again on a 1986 R80RT BMW. The push rod tube seals seeped on it (the owner had just put in Synthetic and it started leaking on me in several hundred miles). Again, I changed to dino and the leaking stopped for the 15 years I kept it. Both of the bikes were relatively low miles (for a BMW) with between 40,000 and 50,000 miles on them but they were about 15 years old. The 03 BMW R1200CLC had no problem with synthetic. It had nearly as many miles but was much newer.
Well, you know BMW...

I kid - I used to own an R1100RT that I very much enjoyed. I was speaking from experience with cars, but maybe that wasn't the case with bikes. I do know I haven't seen an issue with synthetic oils since I converted to it for track bikes in the late 1990's. I honestly don't remember what I ran in in the RT, but it never leaked.

Now my Ural, on the other hand, leaks a lot. I consider that to the Russian version of rust-proofing.
 

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I don't think so. I had my first experience with synthetic oil and oil seepage past the seals when the rear main seal leaked on a 85 K100RT BMW. I used Mobil 1 (dry clutch). I changed back to dino and the leak stopped. Dumb as I was, I tried it again on a 1986 R80RT BMW. The push rod tube seals seeped on it (the owner had just put in Synthetic and it started leaking on me in several hundred miles). Again, I changed to dino and the leaking stopped for the 15 years I kept it. Both of the bikes were relatively low miles (for a BMW) with between 40,000 and 50,000 miles on them but they were about 15 years old. The 03 BMW R1200CLC had no problem with synthetic. It had nearly as many miles but was much newer.
That BMW problem not synthetic oil problem !
 

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Funny thing.... I've had both those BMWs and never had a seepage problem using synthetic oil. (Amsoil) Go figure.....
 

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Well, you know BMW...

I kid - I used to own an R1100RT that I very much enjoyed. I honestly don't remember what I ran in in the RT, but it never leaked.
I used 20-50W Mobil 1 (red cap) in my R1100RT for over 10 years and never a drop of oil hit my driveway unless I spilled some when changing the oil which I tried to do every 5,000 miles.
 

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I have been running Mobil 1 in my Valkyrie for years. I was told the clutch would slip, etc. Bike has 168000 miles now, still runs good, gears still shift smoothly. I also run Mobil 1 in my 2 Vespas and my 56 Cushman Eagle. When it's time to change oil on my recently purchased 2004 Burg, I will go to Mobile1. Best price is at Sams Club Motorcycle Bill
 

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Funny thing.... I've had both those BMWs and never had a seepage problem using synthetic oil. (Amsoil) Go figure.....

I don't think it has anything with what kind of motorcycles they were. I think it is seals hardening due to age and/or heat issues. the 92 K75RT didn't have any problem and the engine is the same as the K100RT other than having one less cylinder and having a balance shaft. I think the K75RT was OK because it was much newer with less time for the seals to harden.
 
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