[Terry Eade]

I have just purchased a new Burgman and want to use synthetic oil to get longer engine life, cooler running, and better milage. I don't want to switch too early, however, as I want the engine to get worn in before I make the switch. Should I do it after the initial 600 mile breakin period or use motorcycle performance oil for the first oil change and then switch at 4,000 miles? Also is there a source of oil filters at less than the $11 they charge at the Suzuki dealer? I plan to do my own oil changes as I did when I owned my Honda Helix.

 

[Jim]

I switched @ 7,200 miles. I would wait at least untill 3,000 miles are on the bike.

Go to search and type in "Synthetic" there is a lot of discussion on this.

 

[Randy]

I agree - let your engine get a little wear on it .I would guess @ least 4000 -if your in a real hurry-
As for filters, there are a number of web sites that can sell you filters a lot cheaper even with shipping.
By the way don't forget to order the "O" rings also.
You can start with -
http://www.oneidasuzuki.com/store/custo ... 559&page=1

 

[Pappy]

A few auto mfg's like Corvette etc COME with syntetic oil from the factory. 600 miles is fine for the change. Check the Amsoil FAQ's for info.

 

[NormanB]

Hi Terry and welcome to the forum :hello2:

I think the general consensus is to switch after 4K or so.

 

[Randy]

Pappy wrote

A few auto mfg's like Corvette etc COME with syntetic oil from the factory

I once had a dealer tell me I could push a "vet" to red line right off the sales floor . according to him the engines are "broke in" at the factory..
IF that's true then I understand the syn. when new.

 

[Pappy]

Pappy wrote

A few auto mfg's like Corvette etc COME with syntetic oil from the factory

I once had a dealer tell me I could push a "vet" to red line right off the sales floor . according to him the engines are "broke in" at the factory..
IF that's true then I understand the syn. when new.

The link for details is at:

https://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq1.aspx

Been using their stuff this way for over 20 bikes and 15 cars & trucks with NO trouble so far. On my carbed (NON EFI bikes), had to adjust carb to compensate after switching to Amsoil. Idle was several hundred RPM too fast with better lubrication.....Mike

 

[NormanB]

Terry

Just another consideration - running or break in procedure. There are a lot of articles on the Web about this, this one here is a neat summation.

Linky

 

[ted clement]

Terry, don't know which Burg you have, but the 400 filters go for about $6 at dealers or $4.46 at AZ Motorsports. You don't need to change the O rings each time but get a spare set to keep on hand. I went with Amsoil at 2K.

 

[Randy]

Pappy wrote

The link for details is at:

https://www.amsoil.com/faqs/faq1.aspx
Been using their stuff this way for over 20 bikes and 15 cars & trucks with NO trouble so far.

I have a local dealer here in town and have been thinking about looking into there products.
I will check out the link, Thanks.

 

[TaiwanSkywave]

CPC- 10/40W-

http://www.ld.cpc.com.tw/30-56.wmv

 

[Jim]

Interisting Read on Oils in general.

http://www.xs11.com/stories/mcnoil94.htm

 

[Russ Schaeffer]

Jim,

That MCN article is a bit out of date, and mostly non-scientific. What they say is true for the SF/SG grades but things have changed. The high shear strength additives are not present in today's automotive oils. USE THE GRADE PER THE OWNERS MANUAL and you will be fine. Synthetics are superior in every respect except price. Mobil MX4T was released to handle this issue.

Thanx,
Russ

P.S. Oh boy an oil thread!