[mupp]

Hi all,
First of all, Hi! I've said hello in the Newbies forum, and today picked up a brand new 400 K4 and am smitten already.
Two things I'd like to run by you..
By design, my dipped beam is on all the time. I cannot switch it off. Although I recognise the obvious safety feature of displaying a dipped main beam all the time, it slightly annoys me that I don't have a choice. I notice that at the bottom centre of the headlight, between the two main bulbs, is a small lit bulb which was clearly designed as a minor running light anyway, I would have preferred that to be on permanently with the headlights left to my discretion. Does anyone know whether all the UK spec models have had this or of earlier ones had the option to turn the headlights off? I would gladly source the earlier switchgear if it's not too difficult a wiring task.
Secondly, I have read in earlier posts that the K4 differed to the K3 in having an adjustable interval oil change light, and swing away glove box covers. Well I have the swing out covers (making the Burg' look like a Viggen!) but my handbook gives no instructions on changing the oil light interval, it merely instructs on how to re-set it after the oil change. I'm hoping that I have a K3 Instruction Manual, other than a stored unsold K3 bike.... The Manual states the interval is preset at initially 600, then 3600 miles thereafter. Can anyone tell how to change the interval? ( I'd like to knock it down to 500 then every 2000).
Hmmmm, what else. My seat doesn't automatically rise when I turn the key, I guess it just needs loosening up. And yes, the screen is much too small. Great for summer in the city, but I reckon around October I'll be buying a bigger screen.
Cheers all,
Dave

 

[Stormsteed]

Never mind.

 

[NormanB]

Hi Mupp

I have given you a belated welcome in the Newbie section.!!

Well I was going to give you an answer of sorts about an hour or go - but got a wee bit distracted visiting a website that was 'under construction'.

I have to say - Well done that man! - what an interesting collection of phots, it is great that you have documented your time with bikes and I enjoyed the narrative (hurry up and finish those on pages 4 & 5 - please).

I have to say with all that off road experience the Burger must be a bit sedate but I suppose apart from being old (and younger than me!) you have bought it for commute/touring.

I am not up on the K3 K4 marlarkey - I recognise some of the important design differences between early and later models but thats about it. So from an early Burger owner and one who has full control of the lights I suspect it would be realtively easy to retro fit the switchgear - do you have the workshop manual/wiring diag (I could scan mine in and em you so you could side by side it). There is an outfit in North Wales who shift Burger bits - I will look up their details - they never answer emails so the old telling bone will be the order of the day.

Screens - the Burgers seem to be optimised for the home market, certainly as far as screen are concerned. I am 6ft + and have a Givi aftermarket which is fine - but with an economy hit. It is off the bike now and I will stick it on for the winter.

Seat - mine opens OK but is s l o w - that could be old age of course, I expect if you give yours a work out it should spring into life.

Sorry cannot help with all that new fangled computer driven you need to change your oil - I use an excel spreadsheet! (I thought I was switched on too!).

Regards

 

[mupp]

Ta Stormsteed and Norman - a bit more playing with the search engine and I think perhaps the adjustable intervals only applies to the 650? No worries, I guess I'll be keeping a little log of mileage anyway for the oil changes.
Might try and fit a Sendec meter to log the hours, I've always preferred using an engine hour meter for service intervals (like they use on tractors and dirtbikes without speedos), they're tiny and dead easy to fit.
http://www.sendec.com/meters/html/smt.html

Thanks for the kind words Norm, I threw a Pan Euro down the road a little while ago and sort of gave up road riding cos it hurts when I fall off, at least the dirt is more forgiving! And I seem to fall off so much these days...
So my money buys a 5 year old Pan or a new Burg 400, no contest really as I'm sure the Burg will get much more use and do everything the Pan did at a more Gentlemanly pace.

I've just started a job I wish I hadn't... removing the tamper-proof idiot stickers on the glove box. To the shops tomorrow to get some of that label remover stuff someone mentioned. Pah.

 

[ajwood]

mupp, you have a GB model that has what the service manual calls Position Lights.

There should be a disconnect-able two wire connector (AMP) that you can
disconnect altogether or put a 12-volt automotive switch in series with, so you have a choice.
Consult your dealers' service manual and follow the instructions for
changing a front headlamp.
Use an automotive 12-volt switch that can handle at least 5 amps more than the fuse
for the circuit that includes the Position Lights.
Choose wisely the circuit that supplies voltage for both the front and rear
groups.
Use a double-pole switch if you need to switch both the Running Lights (dual filament brake/run) and Position Lights circuits.
Using a switch will affect tunnel/shaded area visibility for other vehicles approaching you and Park key operation.
If you have access to electronics knowledge, an automatic ambient light switch could
turn them on when it gets too dark thus overriding your setting for the
sake of safety.

The switch can be located discretely on the inside roof of a glove compartment, for example.
It can be a lighted one that will prompt you to where the switch handle is at all times that the Key is ON.

Check GB law pertaining to a possible requirement for the Position Lights
on models such as the Burgman. It could be only for manufacturers new
bikes that are inspected upon entering GB.

 

[Bleeder]

Heya Mupp, sorry I can't help with yer questions I justed wanted to say welcome and that your web site is great. I even saw 3 or 4 earlier versions of bikes that I've owned. My hats off to you for owning so many nice machines and talking people into taking so many pictures of you on them.




Peace.

 

[NormanB]

Hi Mupp

Thanks for the link to the 'Sendec' - how are you going to equate hours run to miles to keep roughly in line with the schedule - just factor in an average of 60mph or summit?

Do you know of a UK supplier of this kit? I am interested because I note it doubles as a tachometer and my old Burger does not have one (not that a CVT really needs it). However, there are maintenance procedures that benefit from engine rpm info and in the longer term it is a useful health monitor of CVT and particularly belt health and effectiveness.

Tally Ho!

Post first posting note: Just found this outfit http://www.globemall.co.uk/gm-HM-iimm.htm - I have emailed them for pricing of the 804-100 0222 (which I think is what I need).

 

[mupp]

Norman - I got the Sendec from a Farmer's Tractor / Mower supplier place 'oop Norf (get orf moi lannnnd!) and for the life of me I can't remember the website now. One or two companies make Sendecs under licence, i've seen them advertised at Tiny Tach and DatCon.
I prefer doing services based on engine run hours other than mileage but haven't worked out a schedule for the Burg yet, although for the first two years I'll have to stick to the Suzuki rules to preserve my warranty I suppose.
When the engine's running it acts as a Tacho, when the engine stops it shows elapsed hours. It just has one long wire which you coil around the HT lead, it picks up it's pulses from there and uses the induction current to keep its battery memory, dead simple.
You might be better off with the surface mount one 806-100-0222 other than the panel mount, they are so small and light that double sided velcro will hold it firm in place

 

[NormanB]

Hi Dave

Thanks for that - very useful info for me.

Not sure about velcro - I am the sort of engineer who likes constructing things to withstand nuclear blast. It is a failing of mine I know, but I say why use a 2 inch screw when a 6 inch one will fit!! :wink:

I am still awaiting a reply from that company (link posted above) so will do a bit of googling in the interim.

Regards

 

[Bendi]

Why do we need lights ON ?

The law in Europe (as well as my country) require Head lights for MC all over the year 24 hours. This has became a standard in all modern MC and some other vehicles. The ticket is more expensive than a new battery.
So stay with it.

 

[ajwood]

NormyB laddy,
The 6 inch screws are for the prototypes. Consumer versions have plastic supports.

 

[ted clement]

Norman, here in the States some of us use the Tiny Tach on our ultralight planes. Gives you a tach, and total hours run. Costs about $35-40 usd.

 

[NormanB]

Norman, here in the States some of us use the Tiny Tach on our ultralight planes. Gives you a tach, and total hours run. Costs about $35-40 usd.

Ted

Thanks - I may well have to order one from US as the few potential suppliers in UK seem to have much better things to do than deal with customers. :wink: