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Discussion Starter #1
Anyone knowledgeable about the Burger pre load and spring load operation of the rear suspension.

I have read the manual which makes little or no sense at all to me. I have also fiddled with varying settings but would be interested to know if anyone has any in depth experience of the settings.
 

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Mine is wound up to max all the time!

I did this on the recommendation of Paul Blezzard (TwistNGo) and he is absolutely right if you ain't a granny on the throttle then it needs to be! :) :wink: :)
 

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Discussion Starter #5
NormanB said:
Mine is wound up to max all the time!

I did this on the recommendation of Paul Blezzard (TwistNGo) and he is absolutely right if you ain't a granny on the throttle then it needs to be! :) :wink: :)
I'll try the max setting tomorow morning. As my work collegues will confirm, I ain't no slouch, when it comes to going home after work. It's throttle fully open or shut no middle ground!!! :twisted:

(Going to work is diferent ---- to depressed to get there quickly) :D
 

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Mines always been set with the elastic band fully wound up on the back, never had any probs with back suspension at all.

The front though - crap. The worst part is overtaking lorries on the motorway at speed as soon as you break the air stream of the cab the **** thing shakes it's head, even worse if it's windy to start.

So I'm going to make some adjustable pre-loaders for the front springs and fit a steering damper as the burg articulates through the steering head when you get wind bufferted.
 

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Ian said:
Mines always been set with the elastic band fully wound up on the back, never had any probs with back suspension at all.

The front though - crap. The worst part is overtaking lorries on the motorway at speed as soon as you break the air stream of the cab the **** thing shakes it's head, even worse if it's windy to start.

So I'm going to make some adjustable pre-loaders for the front springs and fit a steering damper as the burg articulates through the steering head when you get wind bufferted.
Mines OK!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ian said:
Mines always been set with the elastic band fully wound up on the back, never had any probs with back suspension at all.

The front though - crap. The worst part is overtaking lorries on the motorway at speed as soon as you break the air stream of the cab the **** thing shakes it's head, even worse if it's windy to start.

So I'm going to make some adjustable pre-loaders for the front springs and fit a steering damper as the burg articulates through the steering head when you get wind bufferted.
Like NormanB, never noticed, mine appears fine. Not long returned from a long run, did battle with the giants of the motorway with no adverse bufferting!
 

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As I suspected, mines just got worse with age. Time for a strip down, with 27000 on the clock she could do with the forks stripping and overhauling.
Just another job to add to the list...
 

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Ian said:
As I suspected, mines just got worse with age. Time for a strip down, with 27000 on the clock she could do with the forks stripping and overhauling.
Just another job to add to the list...
Whats the head bearing like?
 

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What is actually being adjusted when you turn the knob, I mean mechanically. On a conventional shock, you are just compressing the spring more, but on the Burgie 400, what is it?

Thanks!
 

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bechtoea said:
What is actually being adjusted when you turn the knob, I mean mechanically. On a conventional shock, you are just compressing the spring more, but on the Burgie 400, what is it?

Thanks!
Link type, progressive linkage, coil spring, oil/gas damped, 34-way externally adjustable spring preload
 

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NormanB said:
bechtoea said:
What is actually being adjusted when you turn the knob, I mean mechanically. On a conventional shock, you are just compressing the spring more, but on the Burgie 400, what is it?

Thanks!
Link type, progressive linkage, coil spring, oil/gas damped, 34-way externally adjustable spring preload
What!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
lilleyen said:
NormanB said:
bechtoea said:
What is actually being adjusted when you turn the knob, I mean mechanically. On a conventional shock, you are just compressing the spring more, but on the Burgie 400, what is it?

Thanks!
Link type, progressive linkage, coil spring, oil/gas damped, 34-way externally adjustable spring preload
What!!!!
I'm with lilleyen "What"

Is it a new undiscovered alien language? :lol:
 

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No your great pillocks - its lifted from Suzuki's marketing blurb - in the tech specifications!! :lol: :lol: :lol:
 

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My rule is if you go over a big bump and your rear end gets bounced off the seat, the preload is too high and needs to be turned down a click.
 

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Alien language

Based on that, is there any hope of understanding the manual, should I obtain one? :wink:
 

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settings

Andre said:
My rule is if you go over a big bump and your rear end gets bounced off the seat, the preload is too high and needs to be turned down a click.
So the settings get softer as you turn them down?
 

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Andre said:
My rule is if you go over a big bump and your rear end gets bounced off the seat, the preload is too high and needs to be turned down a click.
See I take getting bucked off the seat as opposite. The same from the front end if I recieve a good jar from a pothole or pressure crack. To me it means the suspension has bottomed out and the forces are then transfered through the machine either jarring the handlebars or bucking you out of the seat.

I went to a thicker shock oil in the front forks to increase the dampening and I usually ride with the rear shocks adjusted to 4 or 5. This has smoothed out my ride incredibly. I can now travel down sections of highway that I could not ride in the stock setup. I will be putting on new Pirellis this winter and am looking forward to the added ride improvement that they seem to offer.
 

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Re: settings

lilleyen said:
So the settings get softer as you turn them down?
In a sense yes. When you have the preload turned down too much the bikes handling feels sort of mushy. If you hit a bump the back end may bounce up a down a few times.

The amount of preload you need depends on your weight and what you have stowed under the seat. I'm probably lighter than average and the highest settings give me a harsh ride with no other benefit. When it's set just right the ride is firm, but you have a better feel of being in control of the bike.

When you have a passenger cranking up the preload is usually a good idea. I once gave a rather stout fellow a lift without turning up the preload first and ended up scraping the stand on both sides of the bike while cornering despite only riding at moderate speeds.

Getting the right setting simply takes a little experimenting.
 
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