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A Christmas Miracle!
 

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
indeed a miracle because I was so grouchy.

public transportation is such a nightmare. late buses make you lose your connecting bus and have to wait another hour in the cold.

thank you Fester for your patience help and the schematics. its very much appreciated. the same to the the other great friends here
@Dave_J always a pleasure to hear from your wise mind. @Rusty J info on the torx helped me get it before going to the bike and be prepared @Buffalo spot on with the info. the plastic disc with copper contacts gets worn out from use and warps/bubbles from the heat and the small sparking when you turn it on/off @maccecht always great technical info from you @DarisPakar great pep talk and enthusiasm I love Kenny Rogers. my mom would play his and Dolly partons music all the time. especially islands in the stream @Garthhh thank you for the great info from manual @JRoss great analysis that helped me understand better. I wish I was better at electric issues. @HmS thank you @mikeyMarine your humor is always appreciated. my panic attacks has a life of its own and hates all humor.

btw,
when you look at the green plug on the back of the ignition switch there are 6 available wire connections in the green plug. my 400 has 4 wires connected.
right top is orange with 1 thin green trim around the width
the middle top is red.
left top is a brown wire
left bottom is another orange wire but with a green stripe along the length of the wire.
the only 2 wires that had continuity was the top left (brown) and the bottom left (orange with long green stripe)

the red wire is live with key off. I used the + probe of a multimeter on that and used the black to ground on the top of the strut and it showed between 12.99-13.01v
I did not have continuity between the 2 posts of the "solenoid" (new term for me so thanks) previously I checked and did have a beep but im guessing its because it was dark and the area is small and the multimeter probes may have touched.

I would like to find the negative battery to chassis connection and see what that looks like but I have no idea where its located so will have to take tons of plastics off to find it. check if it has corrosion. but basically to see its condition and use some permatex dielectric grease I have on it

I dont trust the coupler/connectors and want to find a newer (used?) part to replace. or to install a bypass switch. though im not sure which of the 3 wires to connect to the red wire. I was scared to connect it and fry the harness so decided to clean and play with the coupler before trying that.
 

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Na Na Na Na ....Naaa. Take that all you “I never click his links” . Turns out his mom loved Kenny Rodgers.......Who would ever thought ol’ Kenny could be the inspiration to fix a scooter halfway around the World ? ;) We’re just one big happy functioning dysfunctional family here ;) Jesus, Mary and Joseph would be proud ! ...Happy Birthday Jesus and keep an eye out for our buddy s-steel ...Amen
 

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Discussion Starter · #64 ·
"Jesus, Mary and Joseph would be proud ! ...Happy Birthday Jesus and keep an eye out for our buddy s-steel ...Amen"

amen! bless the lord
 

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Well done Sir. However a word of caution in relation to the Zapping sound. It is shorting in that it may be only making a partial of poor connection and will burn out quickly. Suggest you get that bit resolved quickly or there will be another thread shortly ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
100% correct. that part is worn out and has seen better days. I need to find a new part. even a used part thats in good condition till I get another bike.
 

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indeed a miracle because I was so grouchy.

public transportation is such a nightmare. late buses make you lose your connecting bus and have to wait another hour in the cold.

thank you Fester for your patience help and the schematics. its very much appreciated. the same to the the other great friends here
@Dave_J always a pleasure to hear from your wise mind. @Rusty J info on the torx helped me get it before going to the bike and be prepared @Buffalo spot on with the info. the plastic disc with copper contacts gets worn out from use and warps/bubbles from the heat and the small sparking when you turn it on/off @maccecht always great technical info from you @DarisPakar great pep talk and enthusiasm I love Kenny Rogers. my mom would play his and Dolly partons music all the time. especially islands in the stream @Garthhh thank you for the great info from manual @JRoss great analysis that helped me understand better. I wish I was better at electric issues. @HmS thank you @mikeyMarine your humor is always appreciated. my panic attacks has a life of its own and hates all humor.
Steel, you're welcome. Glad to hear you got it running again. Please, please, please fix it properly so it doesn't leave you walking or taking the bus.
btw,
when you look at the green plug on the back of the ignition switch there are 6 available wire connections in the green plug. my 400 has 4 wires connected.
right top is orange with 1 thin green trim around the width - goes to (sends power from RED wire when ignition switch is ON) fuse 4 (Ignition - ECM and Immobilizer unit) and 5 (Signal).
the middle top is red. - comes from Battery +
left top is a brown wire - goes to various lights and things
left bottom is another orange wire but with a green stripe along the length of the wire. comes from fuse 5 Signal
the only 2 wires that had continuity was the top left (brown) and the bottom left (orange with long green stripe) - If this is with the ignition switch ON, then the contacts inside are connecting as they should. If the terminals with the RED to ORANGE do NOT have continuity, those contacts are open/not connected and bad. These are highly likely what is producing the "zapping" sound you described in THIS POST. Get the ignition switch repaired properly or replaced. The contacts are being burned by all the current running through it.

the red wire is live with key off. I used the + probe of a multimeter on that and used the black to ground on the top of the strut and it showed between 12.99-13.01v - That's good. It's coming from the batter + terminal. You should read the same voltage on this wire as you would if you measured across the battery + and - terminals.
I did not have continuity between the 2 posts of the "solenoid" (new term for me so thanks) previously I checked and did have a beep but im guessing its because it was dark and the area is small and the multimeter probes may have touched.
What posts of what solenoid? The starter relay on the right side of the dash?

I would like to find the negative battery to chassis connection and see what that looks like but I have no idea where its located so will have to take tons of plastics off to find it. check if it has corrosion. but basically to see its condition and use some permatex dielectric grease I have on it
It's under the front leg shield. You'll have to remove the windshield and front leg shield with the headlights to get ot them.

I dont trust the coupler/connectors and want to find a newer (used?) part to replace. or to install a bypass switch. though im not sure which of the 3 wires to connect to the red wire. I was scared to connect it and fry the harness so decided to clean and play with the coupler before trying that.
I answered that indirectly above. It's 2 wires that you need to connect with an alternate switch if you don't want or are unable to replace the ignition switch. You need to get power from the battery to the ignition/ECM/Immobilizer. :wink IIRC, Suzuki doesn't sell just the switch, you have to buy the entire ignition switch assembly (key tumbler and housing). Sorry, I'm not going to get a demerit or time out from Papa Dave for posting in plain text how to hotwire a B400.:angel

Going to mention this one more time, this link was provided a few posts up. may I suggest that once the pdf loads in your browser, save it. It's good reading and it has some cool pictures. This is the service manual for your Burgman.

Last suggestion, if you have some free time, I find the following YouTube channels great sources of diagnostic methods: South Main Auto, ScannerDanner, Pine Hollow Auto Diagnostics, DiagnoseDan, New Level Auto.

Merry Chistmas
 

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S-S, I have a new ignition module that goes on the back of the switch. Not sure on shipping to Cyprus.

I'll take $25 USD plus shipping. This is a new one still in the box. I paid over $38 8 years ago so prices have not gone up much.

There are 3 each still on Ebay at $41.67 plus $9.99 shipping to USA only. Do a search for 99103-11199 or 9910311199


But if your used part does work, not a problem. I keep this as a spare along with a complete Ignition, glove box and gas cap set for my Burgmans.
 

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S-S, I have a new ignition module that goes on the back of the switch. Not sure on shipping to Cyprus.

I'll take $30 USD plus shipping. This is a new one still in the box.

There are 2 still on Ebay at $41.67 plus $9.99 shipping to USA only. Do a search for 99103-11199 or 9910311199
^^^That right there is a sore wee wee deal! ...uh I mean gift horse....

Take heed Steel. Fix'er right.
 

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^^^That right there is a sore wee wee deal! ...uh I mean gift horse....

Take heed Steel. Fix'er right.
I did edit it as you were posting. :grin

I am trying to clean out my garage of overstock crap. I tend to hoard stuff.

But just today member ibizzard sent me another box of crap for FREE. :grin All new and still in the box:

https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07MR64XK1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


https://amazon.com/ONLINE-LED-STORE...y&qid=1577242085&sprefix=5+pin,aps,221&sr=8-4
 
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