[Router]

Hi All
New to the forum and looking for some help
09 650 ABS Burgman 3000 miles
My rear brake has started sticking and has even discolored the disc
Things I have checked so far
1 Removed parking brake adjuster (brake still seized
2 Removed caliper (very hard as pads very tight on disc)
3 Remover slider (free and coated in red grease)
4 Removed pad pin's (free and coated in silver grease)
5 Pad's now worn but seated correctly
6 Hand brake piston very free screws in no problem
7 Fluid piston can push in with one finger and turn in seals
I am at a loss fitted new pads (after screwing piston back in and fitted pad in slot on piston as wsm 9-75)
As soon as you put the brake on hard you really struggle to turn the wheel (this is still with the hand brake adjuster completly de adjusted)
If you look from underneath you can see that the handbrake piston is not returning,it is just screwing out and staying there?
Has anyone any ideas could the valve in the caliper be faulty 9-88 wsm
Thanks in advance for ANY help

 

[Longin Krajewski]

Hi All
New to the forum and looking for some help
09 650 ABS Burgman 3000 miles
My rear brake has started sticking and has even discolored the disc
Things I have checked so far
1 Removed parking brake adjuster (brake still seized
2 Removed caliper (very hard as pads very tight on disc)
3 Remover slider (free and coated in red grease)
4 Removed pad pin's (free and coated in silver grease)
5 Pad's now worn but seated correctly
6 Hand brake piston very free screws in no problem
7 Fluid piston can push in with one finger and turn in seals
I am at a loss fitted new pads (after screwing piston back in and fitted pad in slot on piston as wsm 9-75)
As soon as you put the brake on hard you really struggle to turn the wheel (this is still with the hand brake adjuster completly de adjusted)
If you look from underneath you can see that the handbrake piston is not returning,it is just screwing out and staying there?
Has anyone any ideas could the valve in the caliper be faulty 9-88 wsm
Thanks in advance for ANY help

Have the same problem and driving me nuts, although not as severe as above. HELP!!

 

[mikeyMarine]

the book for mine shows an automatic adjuster inside the brake that compensates for brake pad wear by moving the pad closer to the rotor it does this by rotating the piston when the hand brake is applied and the disc torques the screwy part. it seems as if that part of your brake is malfunctioning, short answer yes.

 

[Beauwulf]

There are a couple of things that can cause the brakes to stick. Most are related to corrosion either on the pad retention pins, the floater bracket pins or the pistons them selves. In rare cases, especially when the brake pads have been replaced with a cheap copy, the pad itself can get stuck in the caliper due to being slightly too big so that when it expands during use (heat) it locks in the caliper. Which, makes it get hotter.. which makes it stick tighter.. which makes it get hotter.. ad nosium. Most likely it is from corrosion inside the piston bore and will require disassembly to remove the corrosion and replace the seal. In some cases, pitting of the bore can be bad enough to require scrapping the caliper.

 

[Chérie]

Router please add your location below your avatar.

I had that problem with my 2009 a few times, the easy short term solution is to disassemble clean the parts thoroughly and lubricate carefully with a high heat high friction reducing synthetic grease ( I think it was a Permatex product but not 100% sure ). When taken apart always suspected the tolerances were at the upper end of the acceptable limit. Watch your disc closely for signs of wear and discoloration due to remaining clamped on. Eventually did a total rear brake rebuild, actually a couple of times, but I am convinced never totally got rid of the drag.



Good luck

 

[LeDude]

I would take the caliper off and give a very good thorough cleaning and inspection.

if the pistons are seizing or are rusted or damaged you may need to replace them.

I would push the cleaned pistons in and put a wedge inside the caliper and grab the brake lever to see
if they engage properly. If they are sticking badly you may have to rebuild the caliper by taking it apart
and replacing some parts.

I make it a habit of using and air gun after each wash to blow away any stuck or debris that may have
gotten between the pads and the pistons.

I am guessing that there is no interruption in the brake fluid flow from the reservoir to the caliper.

 

[milburg66]

I would take the caliper off and give a very good thorough cleaning and inspection.

if the pistons are seizing or are rusted or damaged you may need to replace them.

I would push the cleaned pistons in and put a wedge inside the caliper and grab the brake lever to see
if they engage properly. If they are sticking badly you may have to rebuild the caliper by taking it apart
and replacing some parts.

I make it a habit of using and air gun after each wash to blow away any stuck or debris that may have
gotten between the pads and the pistons.

I am guessing that there is no interruption in the brake fluid flow from the reservoir to the caliper.

LeDude, If there was no flow to rear caliper where would you start looking? Thanks, Randy

 

[antimatter]

Does the Burgman have a return port for the brake fluid? On lots of bikes, there's a small hole that lets the brake fluid travel back into the reservoir on the master cylinder that can get plugged, and when it does the brake line will stay pressurized after you let off the brake lever.

In the larger picture, this may be a signal that its time to rebuild the calipers anyway. The seals do get worn out, especially if gunk and rust gets built up on the pistons. It's not a particularly hard job, it just takes some parts and a little elbow grease. An '09 is probably overdue, as 3-5 years is a about the lifespan of a set of brake caliper pistons and seals (depending on usage).