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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
OK I'm not having much luck with the Burgman. The stator is goosed. Getting a reading to earth on each of the stator wires.
So my question is does anyone know what Suzuki stators fit the 2006 Burgman any other bike models eg GSX etc.
Or do I need to bite the bullet and get a Burgman one.
Cheers Guys.
 

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What readings are you getting? Also between each of the wires?
 

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In USA there are shops that will rewind one with better copper wire and for less too. See if you can find a shop in a larger city.

You may want to upgrade the Regulator/Rectifier too. A bad R/R will goose a new stator quick.
 
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
G-Dub,it;s a long story.
I'll post a few figures tomorrow.
Thanks for the info Bluestrom, ordered the last one from our German friend.
I'll be back in the UK when it arrives so will have it delived to my mate in Spain and fit it when I get back in December all being well. It will give me chance to get a new gasket and that 20mm bolt for pulling the rotor off.
It may have to go when sorted, am not having much luck with this one.
I have my Spanish VN2000 for sale soon so may get a newer Burgman or go for a 650 Enfield.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
G-Dub. After a charging issue I assumed correctly as it happened that the Regulator was u/s, so I obtained a good second hand one from uk and installed. At the time I had checked the Stator ouput and all seemed OK. Once fitted all seemed good although not perfect, I have a digital voltmeter connected and it was reading around 13 -13.5 volts when rideing about.
A few weeks ago the voltage dropped and I thought another regulator had succumbed to the heat, so I ordered a Mosfet unit from a chap in Austria thinking that this would be the answer to my charging woes. Fitted and tested, voltage still not great but it was charging at about 13.5v - 13.9v. Until a few days ago when the voltage dropped off again on a long ride. Something not right here me thinks so off with the tupperware (I'm getting quite good at this stage) and my attention turned to the stator.
Checking with the meter all was well until I checked between the stator wires and the engine, approx 150ohm on each lead.
Oh dear me thinks, why didn't I do this test at the outset. So this is where we are at. New stator ordered. The Mosfet regulator seems to be OK, and as a bonus so does the last regulator I brought from UK. The first regulator is deffo u/s and I suspect the knackered stator has done this. The second regulator seems to have survived as does the mosfet fingers crossed. Checking the AC output from the stator at approx 4000 ish rpm shows roughly 40-55v on two pairs but over 70v on the third pair so something not right with that stator.
 

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Sounds like your main stator assembly is probably fine. The large copper wire windings, are less than 1 ohm resistance, so if there was a short to ground in the windings, the measured resistance to ground would have to be less than 1 ohm. Since you’re seeing 150 ohms to ground, your issue must be something other than the stator winding assembly. You must have something else in the circuit you measured. What’s under the small black plastic cover with the blue ground wire in the photo?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Charbroil, agreed. But between the stator wires and ground should be open circuit. The small black thingy with the blue wire is a sensor and as far as I know is independant of the stator wiring (someone correct me if I'm wrong).
I suspect that the insulation on the coils is breaking down, that 150 ohm may drop when it warms up, I think it's getting worse as time goes by. If all the AC outputs had been the same then I would have had a rethink but something doesn't seem right. Strange that one pair of stator wires is higher output than the other two, perhaps this one is good and the other two are bad
Not much in the circuit apart from the stator and regulator. 3 different regulators and still not charging properly is drawing me back to that stator. I wish you were right and it was fine, but nowhere else to go unless someone has a bright idea.
Maybe the fact that it isn't a dead short to ground (at the moment) is why I haven't seen lots of smoke.
 

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If you’re playing around with it disconnected, you could apply 12-24 volts from a winding to the frame. If you have 150 ohms, you’ll get current flow, <0.2 amps , and should be able to feel the offending spot, start to get slightly warm.
 

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You should have 70-80 Volts AC at all 3 wires from the Stator. And yes 0 ohms, ZERO ohms, from engine ground (NOT frame Ground) to each wire. You have a stator worth trash binning.

Never use FRAME ground. Use the engine or any 'BLACK with White stripe' wire.

Insert infinite in place of ZERO. :rolleyes:
 

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And yes 0 ohms, ZERO ohms, from engine ground (NOT frame Ground) to each wire. You have a stator worth trash binning.
You’re getting it confused.
0 ohms would be a dead short=BAD.
You want infinite ohms as in open circuit to ground
 

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The small black thingy with the blue wire is a sensor and as far as I know is independant of the stator wiring (someone correct me if I'm wrong).
That is the crankshaft position sensor. It has nothing to do with the stator winding. It is located there so it can sense the crankshaft position based on the rotor position.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dave, what is the differance between an engine ground and a frame ground, I would have thought they were the same as the engine is bolted to the frame.
 

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1 OHM is a dead short.

ZERO is empty, non place holder, nothing, infinite. 0 or .0 is the same. :rolleyes:

My meter is showing .0
Measuring instrument Gauge Material property Font Gadget
 

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Dave, what is the differance between an engine ground and a frame ground, I would have thought they were the same as the engine is bolted to the frame.
Over the years members have earth grounded Fog lights or horns to the frame only to find an open or high resistance ground. There is a reason all bikes have a ground wire provided to all devices.

Now if you run a 10 AWG wire from the battery negative post to a 100% clean frame bolt, then yes use the frame. But the engine is bolted into RUBBER bushing.
 
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In my Telephone working days I worked on Data T-1 and T-3 circuits all day long. A 1 Meg Ohm Ground will knock a T-1 down. That is not much ohms but is a lot of NOISE.

1 Ohm is a dead short, 10,000,000 Ohms is a lot LESS and closer to 0.0 so the bigger the number the closer to infinite . A lot of CHEAP meters will read 100 Meg Ohms as infinite.

Arguing to just argue? Go for a ride
 
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4 wrong in a row. You’re on a roll

addressing 2,3,and 4 now:

1 ohm is NOT a dead short. Certainly not on a winding specified to be < 1 ohm end-end, when new.

Zero is not the same as nothing, or infinite. Not even close. Totally different.

Lastly, your meter is displaying .OL for open circuit- resistance greater than the meter’s measuring capabilities …. Not 0 ohms.
 
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