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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everybody,
I just joined the site.

I wanted to ask about your experience with the speedometer correction devices. I have a 2011 650 Exec. (Plate on the bike says it was made 3/2011.)

Last year I purchased a Speedo Healer. I installed it and calibrated it per their instructions; my speedometer is about 8% off. The unit plugs in, under the seat. Once it was installed, in "D" or automatic mode, my transmission would not shift. (It did, however, put the speedometer dead on, when compared to the GPS.) I needed to go to "M" mode and manually shift. Checking with the Speedo Healer folks, their solution was to cut and reroute a wire. As I understood it, I need to cut the wire under the seat, then route the new wire up to the back of the dash. Not being "super" mechanical (and the bike being new) I did not want to do this. I'm afraid I'd mess something up, that would cost me a lot at the dealer to have fixed.

Has anyone else had a similar problem and if so, how did you fix it? Is there a way a of just jumping a wire around the speedo healer, in its location under the seat?

Has anyone had this problem using the SpeedoDRD device? Again, if so, how did you correct it? I've spoken with the folks that sell the SpeedoDRD. They tell me their S1 model is a "plug & play" unit for the 650. They've had reports where the shift points will increase by the percentage of correction (RPM moves up 8%), but they have not had a report like I experienced with the Speedo Healer, not being able to shift. They tell me, their Universal U1 model can be used to get around the change in shift points. This also requires a different harness, which you get from them. It reroutes the signal to the ECM to maintain the same shift points, but it also requires cutting an splicing.

I've been using my GPS to get my correct speed, but I've discovered my odometer is off as well as the speedometer and I'd like to have this correct.

If you've used these devices, have you had the same problem I did, and if so, what was your solution? Would you recommend one device over the other? Do I actually have to run a wire from under the seat to the dash, or can it be accomplished right there under the seat?

Thanks for the help and advice,
Bill
 

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My understanding is you need to alter the signal at after the engine/CVT controller and before the cluster to not interfere with the CVT operation. ErikDK has dual Speedo Healers to adjust spedometer accuracy and CVT shifting so he's be the one to ask where to splice.
 

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The easiest place to splice is 2 or 3 inches from the plug to the ECU.
If you unplug the plug, you can reach it from below, above the front fender.

The speed signal wire color to the ECU is pink, and you have to cut it and supply the unaltered speed signal to terminal no. 7 in the plug.

[attachment=0:1e0s53t8]ECM_terminal.JPG[/attachment:1e0s53t8]
 

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I did what Eric did above. My correction on my 2011 650 is -9.1%. On my previous 05 650, I just did the -10% correction in my head. To be honest, I probably would not spend the time or money and do this to another bike. Keep in mind, you do get a correct speedo setting, but your odometer will read less miles. Not really that much of a problem, but your indicated MPG will be lower, you will be going further between oil changes if you use the reminder, and you'll think your tires are wearing out prematurely! I used the Speedo DRD.
 

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Why not just leave the whole dam thing alone...... I mean, so what?

We are not driving rocket science, simply a scooter. Sometimes, we get lost, here is a good example.

Bikes are for riding..., so ride it!

M
 

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In the age of abundant GPS's and stupid low and strictly enforced speed limits, an accurate speedometer makes a lot of sense.
I never use the +10% speedometer in my car, I always look at the true speed on the gps, which has 10mm high digits.
On my TomTom rider, the digits are no larger than the standard font on this page.

For natural born salesmen or politicians, who are used to adding at least 10% to measurable facts when they try to sell something, and vice versa, the lying speedo is just like their business life.

I'm an engineer, and if a gauge or sensor reads wrong, we calibrate it and make offset correction to display and register the correct value.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Why not just leave the whole dam thing alone
I probably would not spend the time or money and do this to another bike.
I'm an engineer, and if a gauge or sensor reads wrong.....
I really relate to each of these comments. I too, have an engineering degree and for many, many years worked with electronic equipment that needs precision. Once I learned of the problem of the speedometer being inaccurate, it drove me nuts, and I couldn't understand how or why a speedometer on a motorcycle could be so far off, when that's not the case on other vehicles. I then learned there were "gizmos" on the market that could correct this problem, and I "had" to have one. I bought it (Speedo Healer), installed it, and it broke my scooter. I discovered that there is a "possible" fix, to correct what "broke"; but upon seeing what that "fix" is, decided I did not want to start hacking and rewiring a brand new scooter. I also didn't want to have any trouble if a warranty issue arose (warranty expires in a couple of more weeks). So I disconnected the Speedo Healer, but left it in place. For the past year, I've dealt with the inaccuracy in the speedometer and by using the GPS, I've learned the approximate speed I'm going for the various indicated speeds. I had given up and let go of this issue, until the other day.

This has come back up for me because of MPG. I've only used the dash readout for MPG. I was wondering why larger displacement bikes claimed higher MPG than what I am getting, so I started reading again. It was then I learned that the odometer could be wrong in addition to the speedometer. Just prior to starting this thread, I decided to calculate my MPG manually. I filled up, reset the "A" tip meter and reset my GPS. I'm still in the middle of the first tank of gas for this experiment and I've gone about 100 miles so far. At this point, there seems to be about a 2 mile difference between the GPS and the odometer, with the odometer reading higher. In another day or so, I'll have to fill up again, so I'll do this calculation for the first time. Until now, the computer is telling me I get around 45 mpg.

I live out in the country, on the AL / FL state line. Riding in this area is great, no traffic lights, speed limits around 55 mph, and no traffic. Unfortunately, I don't have a garage or even a driveway. I live off a dirt road and any work on the bike I do is in the yard on the grass (if I drop something, the parts tend to disappear into the grass). So this is another reason that I don't want to be doing a lot of work on the scooter, if I don't have to. If there is an easy, relatively simple way to correct these issues, I'd like to do it; if it becomes to complicated I'm not going to try.

Let me ask you guys a couple of questions, if I may.

Erik,
the pink wire at the back of the dashboard; is that the only place you can make the splice? I don't have a service manual, so I don't have a wiring diagram nor know the location of the "computer". I assume the signal leaves the dash and has to run back down to the transmission, which is relatively close to the location of the Speedo Healer under the seat. I've assumed that there should be a shorter routing for the uncorrected signal to get to the transmission rather than up and back to the dashboard.

Jetfixer,
You have the same model year as I do. When you first installed the Speedo DRD, did it affect your transmission at all? Which model Speedo DRD do you have? I've spoken with the folks that make the Speedo DRD. They tell me, their S1 model, is supposed to be a direct "plug & play" for the Burgman 650. They told me it "may" change the shiftpoints, moving the rpms up a bit (they haven't heard of the problem I had with the Speedo Healer, causing the transmission not to shift). They told me if that's a problem for me and I want to correct this, their U1 model is a "universal" model, that requires splicing to be done in the wire harness, rerouting the uncorrected speed signal to the transmission. They also state that the odometer will be offset by the same amount of correction that is applied to the speedometer (I'll guess, but never checked, that the Speedo Healer dose the same thing).

I'm willing to live with a change in shift points (providing they are not to drastic) if it means I can plug in the unit, have the corrections made, and not have to splice and run new wires. If the Speedo DRD causes the transmission to not shift, like the Speedo Healer did, then I'm not going to even try. I'll live with the inaccuracies. But it just "seems" wrong to have these in the first place.

(As an aside, seeing as how I'm gripping, I hate the digital fuel gauge as well, I'd much prefer an analog dial. I haven't run out of gas, yet, but because I run around where gas stations are few and far between, I carry an extra gallon of gas, strapped to the top box, just in case.)

Bill
 

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billmc2 said:
I'm still in the middle of the first tank of gas for this experiment and I've gone about 100 miles so far. At this point, there seems to be about a 2 mile difference between the GPS and the odometer, with the odometer reading higher. In another day or so, I'll have to fill up again, so I'll do this calculation for the first time. Until now, the computer is telling me I get around 45 mpg.
Sounds about right. I've found about a 2% high error with the odometer vs. the speedo at 10-12% high. It also means using a SpeedoHealer you have to decide which one you want to be a accurate. I think its stupid that Suzuki has two different errors built into a cluster bussing the same signal.
 

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I don't believe the people who say their CVT didn't act any different after installing a speedohealer. They just didn't notice.

My experiments with a second speedohealer on the pink wire to the ECU have shown that the CVT acts on the reported speed.

It's like the shift marks on old cars, but combined with throttle position. Each throttle position, maybe 8 in total, has its own curve with speed vs. ratio points, and if you open the throttle, the CVT jumps to another curve, with higher rpm vs. speed.
 

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hanspluygers said:
Why not just leave the whole dam thing alone...... I mean, so what?

We are not driving rocket science, simply a scooter. Sometimes, we get lost, here is a good example.

Bikes are for riding..., so ride it!

M
:thumbup: :thumbup: :thumbup: +10 too............ and AMEN!
 

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Why is it that some farkles are not up to discussion, like custom seats, heated grips and aftermarket windscreens, while speedo correction and electronic cruise control always bring out the stoneagers who must loudly proclaim their affection for Caterpillar O-rings and speedometers that lie like a politician?

We don't try to force our gadgets down your throats, so back off.



I did get carried away in the 2013 model thread, though, because I strongly feel that the 200 kph analog speedometer is a huge step backwards, especially since even 150 takes an age to reach.
 

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ErikDK said:
Why is it that some farkles are not up to discussion, like custom seats, heated grips and aftermarket windscreens, while speedo correction and electronic cruise control always bring out the stoneagers who must loudly proclaim their affection for Caterpillar O-rings and speedometers that lie like a politician?
Erik its pretty simple, as Dirty Harry said "a man's got to know his limitations". So maybe based on personal experience better not to risk messsing something up. There are some also that its not such a big deal just knowing the error percent.
 

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I added a speedohealer to my 09 afew years ago and really never noticed any negative shift point changes.
 

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I'm not going to mess with any type of speedo correction equipment but I can't understand for the life of me why 2010 Honda Accord is dead on accurate and my 2012 bike is 7 to 10% off. Oh well, I'll just live with it.
 

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InfernoST said:
why 2010 Honda Accord is dead on accurate and my 2012 bike is 7 to 10% off.
I have a hunch. All the bike speedometers I have encountered read high. My now gone Kawasaki and Yamaha read about 5 miles or so high (a bit higher at higher speeds). My White Lardie reads even higher.
Is this a case of one manufacturer long time ago "fudging" the speedo (NOT the odometer...) so as to give bragging rights and everybody followed suit and now is become a game of chicken so see who blinks first?
Worst things have happened...
Marco
 

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Discussion Starter #16
MJR said:
Sounds about right. I've found about a 2% high error with the odometer vs. the speedo at 10-12% high. It also means using a SpeedoHealer you have to decide which one you want to be a accurate. I think its stupid that Suzuki has two different errors built into a cluster bussing the same signal.
MJR, if in fact there are 2 different errors, it would prove that this is taking place inside the ECM and therefore deliberate on the part of Suzuki. I suppose the only proper way to fix it, would be reprogramming of the ECM, something I'm not even going to consider.

From reading on the gizmo sites, it appears to be just a square wave being sent to the computer. I'm certain that they are just using this as a clock and the only thing the gizmos are doing is changing the frequency of the clock.

Considering that I haven't heard of anyone having the same problem as I did, with the Speedo Healer, I'm gonna guess one of two things. Either my computer is overly susceptible to ringing and can't handle a "dirty" square wave that's being regenerated by the Speedo Healer; or I just got a bad Speedo Healer. Either way, it makes me hesitant to spend more money on another device.

Me thinks, that at this point, if I had an accurate odometer, I'd be more willing to live with the speedo error.
 

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Sounds like the solution for your situation is simple, contact the company and have them replace the unit if it's suspect.
 

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For Bill----

I installed the s1 Speedo DRD. Having just traded in my 05 650 on an 11, I proceeded to perform all the upgrades I had come to love that I had done over the years on the older one. I can say that I definitely noticed the shift points were occurring at higher rpms than on the other bike. It wasn't enough to really bother me, but I figured that over time, it would cut into my fuel mileage if left alone. I spliced into the pink wire immediately behind the dashboard cluster. There was not a lot of room or extra wire to deal with. Ideally, I was prepared to remove the pink wires' pin from the connector and make a proper replacement that would not have involved cutting factory wire. When I saw how much more I would have to disassemble to do this, I gave up and spliced. Using gps, I tried a couple of different settings before settling on the -9.1% correction. The speedo is dead on, but the odometer racks up miles at 9.1 % lower.

I could not find any other way to correct the speedo error, but I did try to correct the higher shift points using another method before giving up and splicing into the wire. I'm sure a lot of folks here will think I'm crazy for trying this, but I tried various thickness of shims under the pulley position sensor to try to recalibrate the shift points. The idea being that if I couldn't alter the signal to the speedo without throwing off the cvt, then why not fool the cvt into thinking the pulley wasn't in the right spot for any given rpm/load? If I could have found a spare PPS to buy cheaply, I needed to have one that I could reduce the length of to give a full range of options compared to the stock one. Between reducing the stock length, and shimming the original length out, I could have found the happy medium. Time, money, and the desire to ride got in the way.
 

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I tried the SpeedoDRD and managed to really screw it up. Did the wiring at the connector coming off the speed sensor (up by the fuse block under the seat). Used the U1 version. Now my 2007 Burgman won't shift out of 1st at all. Point is, know what you can and should be doing to your bike. If the words "Hey, this should be a piece of cake!" or "Hey - this'll only take a couple of minutes!" come to mind, back slowly away from the machine.... Sadly, as I get older, I tend to forget things and I forgot that. I even pulled the DRD out and tried to put the wiring back together (it's a very tight fit) and it STILL won't shift out of 1st gear. Now I get to try to figure out what I killed. The DRD is a 4-wire rig. Power, ground, and in/out to the DRD unit. Should be easy.... Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this puppy? Is there some sort of reset? My next step is to pop the battery, reinstall, and see if that does any good. If not, I guess it'll have to go to a (shudder!) dealer. Anyway, any suggestions would really be appreciated.....
 

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KMHamm said:
I tried the SpeedoDRD and managed to really screw it up. Did the wiring at the connector coming off the speed sensor (up by the fuse block under the seat). Used the U1 version. Now my 2007 Burgman won't shift out of 1st at all. Point is, know what you can and should be doing to your bike. If the words "Hey, this should be a piece of cake!" or "Hey - this'll only take a couple of minutes!" come to mind, back slowly away from the machine.... Sadly, as I get older, I tend to forget things and I forgot that. I even pulled the DRD out and tried to put the wiring back together (it's a very tight fit) and it STILL won't shift out of 1st gear. Now I get to try to figure out what I killed. The DRD is a 4-wire rig. Power, ground, and in/out to the DRD unit. Should be easy.... Anyone have any ideas on how to fix this puppy? Is there some sort of reset? My next step is to pop the battery, reinstall, and see if that does any good. If not, I guess it'll have to go to a (shudder!) dealer. Anyway, any suggestions would really be appreciated.....
Your not running it on the ceterstand are you by chance? If it sees the centerstand switch it will stay in first.
 
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