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Discussion Starter #1
Installing the Speedo Healer was the first project I've done on my Burgman 650. Here's a quick and easy how-to for installation...

1) Before you begin installation, you'll need to figure out how much your speedometer needs to be adjusted. Mine was exactly 10% off. When I was traveling at an indicated speed of 80 MPH, I was actually only traveling at 72 MPH. I used my GPS to compare indicated to actual speed.

2) Go to http://www.healtech-electronics.com (the official website of Speedo Healer) and use their online adjustment calculator. You can then print the exact instructions for setting your Speedo Healer's adjustment.

3) Put your Burg. on the center stand and open the seat. You'll be working on the left side of the bike.

4) Remove the phillips screw (see pic below). The screw is located near some fuses and the helmet hook.


5) Lift up the plastic piece and place something under it to help keep it lifted so you can have easy access to the wires (see pic below).


6) There is only one plug that matches the wire harness provided with your Speedo Healer. Unplug the wires (see pic above) using a small flat head screw driver.

7) Plug in the Speedo Healer wire harness connectors that match the plugs you just separated in the previous step. Then plug the other end of the harness into the Speedo Healer.

See pic below for suggested location of the Speedo Healer device. Some people prefer to route the wire into the trunk or other places instead. I chose this spot, because it's easily accessible and it won't get damaged by things being placed into or removed from the trunk. The unit lifts out easily and there's plenty of wire on the harness.


That's it for installation. Just put the plastic panel back in place and put the screw back in. Now you'll need to program the unit by following the directions that came with it and the adjustment settings you printed from the website.
 

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I contacted their tech. support people regarding the issue some Burgmans have when Speedo Healer is installed. I've seen some posts regarding shifting and RPM issues. Here's their reply with the solution:

Hello Ron,

Thank you for your email.

Here are some photos from the AN650 K7+ service manual.

------------------------------------------------------------------

In a nutshell, this is what need to be done:
- Leave the SH harness connected at the speed sensor plug
- Route the original (uncalibrated) speed signal to the ECM.


1) Gain access to the ECM unit connector. It is at the front of the bike.
- Take off the handle bar Tupperware and the front panel - see the 3rd photo.


2) Locate the ECM pin #7 (this is a Pink or White wire) - see 1st photo.


3) When the wire is found:
- Cut this wire, about 2 inches away from the connector.
- Get a long spare wire, and connect it to the wire end which is at the ECM connector side.
- Isolate the wire end with tape, that remains at the wiring harness side.
- Splice the other end of this spare wire to the SH WHITE wire, which is at the 3-pole SH connector.

------------------------------------------------------------------


Now, everything should work normally and the calibration will not affect the CVT.


Please let me know if you need any further assistance.
Here are the pics they sent with the email:





 

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Thanks for posting the instructions for speed signal bypass.

The raised RPM issue is really annoying, but still less annoying than the speedo showing 10% to much, so Ive lived with it until now.

Like someone posted in a recent SpeedoHealer thread, and suggested by myself earlier, you could add a second SH in the bypass connection and adjust it to give a fester speed signal, resulting in a rpm vs speed reduction like the "winter" setting of some auto transmissions.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update:

The fix described above does work. I've had the higher RPM and rougher engine braking for the last two months since installing the Speedo Healer. But after adding the bypass wire, the RPM levels have dropped back to normal.

Example of before and after...

Without the fix, the engine ran at 4,000 RPM at 50 MPH.
With the fix, the engine now runs at 3,800 RPM at 50 MPH.
 

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Great post!!!
 

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I know this is an old post but mine gets worse the faster you go, 4 mph fast at 35 range up to 9 mph fast at 70 to 75, this really bugs me. I took the easy way out an just ordered a small gps speedo off Amazon ($36.00), when it gets here I'll be scratching my head deciding where to mount it.
 
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Dredging up an old post. But since it is in the Knowledgebase, I figure this is the right place to put it.

I propose the following: Instead of taking off the required Tupperware and then cutting into the bike's original wire harness, why not cut into the SpeedoHealer wire harness?

Based on the instructions above, they are saying to mate their white wire with the bike's #7 pink wire. But instead of doing that, wouldn't it be easier to cut the white and green wire from the SpeedoHealer and join them? This in effect would be bridging the original wire's terminations. Then tape off the ends of the white and green wire that run down the SpeedoHealer wire harness. See the picture below, I modified the wires in the picture to do as I suggest.

I have ordered this SpeedoHealer, so I don't have parts in hand as yet. But I'm going to look at it when I receive it and confirm that it will work. Then I will perform the operation and report back here, and correct this as necessary. This seems a better way of doing it than modifying the Burgman's wire harness. And having to tear into the bike to do so.


Picture: In case it is difficult to discern, the green and white wires were "cut," in the picture below. The green wire is doing a U-Turn and butt crimped (for example) into the white wire. This should make the original wiring of the Burgman's speed sensor signal wire adhere to it's original path and bypass manipulation from the SpeedoHealer.
90739



7milesout
 

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Follow up - My recommendation from just above WILL NOT WORK. I did it the way I proposed. So unfortunately I now know from experience. I had to go back and redo my work.

The reason it will not work is because the speedometer signal and the CVT signal split somewhere along the wire harness. My assumption was that the one of the other 2 wires of the SH was for the CVT. But evidently the black and red wires are power and ground. But alas, I was FOILED AGAINE!. :D The electrons win again.

I'll also mention that during the time when I had this wiring the way I hoped it would work (but didn't), upon running the SH "test," my speedometer read 0. The SH instructions say it should read any number other than 0. After re-wiring it correctly and running the SH "test," my speedometer read 14 during the test. Post test, the speedometer went to it's normal 0 (because the bike wasn't rolling of course).

The last thing, I started at -8.6, changed to -8.3, but settled on -8.4, and it is perfect. My Burgman came with a navi unit attached between the bars, and it has a GPS Speed. The Burgman is now equal to the Nav Speed. Ahhhhh, satisfying. And the CVT works the same as before. "Why didn't you just read your speed from the Nav Unit?" … you may ask. Ah, good question. 2 reasons. A) the GPS Speed is displayed much smaller than the LCD on the speedometer, and b) once I exceed the speed limit even by 1 mph, the speed displayed on the Nav unit turns red, and is near impossible to read the red number during the daylight. Running a wire from the white wire to pin 7 wasn't easy or fun for me. But in the end, it was worth it.


7milesout
 

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I hate to say it..... But now your Odometer is 10% slower. You will travel farther for the same gallon of gas. Still have to do math.
 

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I knew about that. It bothers me less than the speedometer being off. But I heard it was more like 6% off. I'm going to wind up riding to my Paw's house again this weekend if the weather is good. I think I'll reset trip B once I hit I-75 on the north side of Atlanta to 0 miles, and run it all the way to the exit I take, notate trip B, then do the math to see Ed Zachery how far it's off. Then I'll correct my miles by that percentage when I log my mpg in fuelly. A slight pain, but preferred versus doing algebra to determine my speed.
 

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Well, it depends, as they say.

On both my now-sold '07 Exec and my current '08 Exec:

A) I wound up setting my SH units to -9.2%.

B) The odometer was ('07) and is ('08), to the nearest integer, 7% low.

This implies, to me, that they were both inaccurate, coming from the factory (but the odo more accurate than the speedo).

So, when I do an MPG calculation after a fillup, I multiply the miles on my Trip A by 1.07, and then divide by the gallons just poured in (and reset Trip A).

That's my story, anyway.

PS: I had a $25 Sigma bicycle "computer" on my 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, for the real speed. It was okay, because the analog OEM speedo was tiny and hard to read. On the Big Burgers, given the huge size of the MPH digital display, I went the SH route in part because I couldn't stand having such an inaccuracy staring me in the face (and, yep, I've a touch of OCD in me).
 

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… So, when I do an MPG calculation after a fillup, I multiply the miles on my Trip A by 1.07, and then divide by the gallons just poured in (and reset Trip A).

That's my story, anyway.

PS: I had a $25 Sigma bicycle "computer" on my 2000 Valkyrie Interstate, for the real speed. It was okay, because the analog OEM speedo was tiny and hard to read. On the Big Burgers, given the huge size of the MPH digital display, I went the SH route in part because I couldn't stand having such an inaccuracy staring me in the face (and, yep, I've a touch of OCD in me).
That is Ed Zachery what I've described above to do. Once I cross under I-75 from I-85 taking the ramp to I-75N, from there to the exit to my Paw's house is 95.0 miles. I'll reset Trip B when I cross under I-75. Then doing the math, I'll figure my odometer inaccuracy. My gut tells me I'm going to be in the 1.07 factor zone as well. Will post back.

I had a 2009 450X that had a license plate on it. What a street hooligan machine that thing was. I put a Vapor gauge on it, and included all the bells and whistles (like coolant temp). That gauge could be programmed a very similar way as what the Speedo Healer does. Vapor gauges are a helluva good product. It was a real pleasure riding that thing knowing the mph gauge was SPOT ON. We must be brothers, I have OCD in me as well.
 

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@7milesout:

Good stuff.

Here's a pic of the Sigma (just barely in the frame, at the far left) device I had on my Valkyrie (click for enlargement):

2007-04-16-16-53-06.jpg

I set that initially in my driveway (about 100'), with a long tape measure and a dozen or so rotations. and checked that periodically in the driveway and on the road. I had it adjusted so well that once I did a 100-mile chunk on the highway -- I think it was I-81 -- no stopping for gas, no rest area stops, and it was off three/tenths of a mile over that distance, i.e., off 0.3%.)

(I have daughters in TX and NC, and ride to both places (especially NC) from upstate NY. I've found, using assorted Garmins and phone GPS apps, that the Interstate mile markers are spot on, near as I can verify, as long as you ignore those markers that may be slightly moved because of on- and off-ramps and certain bridge features. I do 50-mile checks all the time, because I don't listen to tunes on bikes, and so have a lot of time for math.)

(I also used two wheel-sensor magnets for the Sigma, rather than one, and adjusted the setting in half. This didn't make it any more accurate, but meant its speed display changed more quickly, more in tune with reality, when accelerating.)

Of course, this sort of thing requires periodic adjustment, if one really has too much free time, is marginally OCD, etc. Just the normal wearing out of a tire will decrease the diameter of a tire by more than 1%. So for set-it-and-forget-it purposes, you have to pick a sort of middle ground of tire wear when setting up SpeedoHealers and Sigmas, etc.
 
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