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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Fellow burger owners,

I've been living with the over the top (my opinion) low rpm @ 60kph etc on my 2014 model, I've tried to read up as much as possible but work keeps interrupting my reading :)

So ... I'm not concerned about the speedo 8-10% optimistic reading I want the opposite to most increase rpm I find it annoying that @ low speed this model is continually going to the highest ratio it can ... slow corner and slow acceleration grumbling that it's in 5/6th gear when it should be in 3/4 gear and you give it a blip on the throttle to get it to lower it's ratio, any fuel savings it trying to get is gone when you need to fiddle the throttle to keep it in higher rpm range.

I know power button is there but that goes to far and manual is a pain more so in traffic and I bought this so I didn't need to change gears.


So is it possible to use speedohealer or similar to increase rpm ?

Mine @ 60kph is app 2750rpm would like another 250-500rpm so it's doesn't grumble and lag when you pull the throttle.


Thks Greg
 

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I know that you want somebody else's opinion, but I don't think anybody else than me has actively used a speedometer correction device to tame the E-CVT to their own preferences.

My way into it was the annoyance over the side effect of speedo correction raising the rpm at all speeds.

Like I've written before, I'm pretty sure that you will get the rpm's bumped up to your satisfaction, before the speedometer gets to show actual speed. 10% correction gives about 3/4's the effect of the power button (Guesstimate)

The E-CVT is quite simple. For any given throttle opening, the CVT changes up respectively down at a certain speed threshold. If you reduce the reported speed vs. actual, it will change up at a higher speed.
Don't worry about the CVT getting upset that the speed doesn't match the pulley position, I have never had any problem with that.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thks ErikDK,

So if I install Speedohealer as per instructed without any cutting and splicing and adjust it to suit the rpm I'm after and if the speedo is better that's a bonus

Greg
 

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Yup, that's the short version, just plug it in.
Get the SpeedoHealer version which lets you toggle between the settings at the push of the remote button, then you can have the low revs easily, when you are in the mood.

If you fully correct the speedometer, the odo will read 5% short, which some find a problem.
Consequently, the gas mileage indicator will be a little more pessimistic, I don't know how it relates to actual gas mileage on the new model Burgmans, but the original models are mostly pessimistic to start with.
Still, it gives you an idea of when you have to fuel up.
If only they'd duplicated the "select" button on the handlebar, so one could toggle between trip mileage and fuel mileage. That might be my next modification, since it's only a question of soldering in 2 wires on the meter's circuit board and connecting them to a "make" switch.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yes I miss the toggle switch on the rear of the switching cluster like my Vstrom 650 has, the Vstrom was accurate in it mileage but Burgman has been 2-3k less than actual.

Thks again :)
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Anybody have this problem with 2014 model

Mode A @ -7.5% makes the scooter rev to 7,500rpm app 35-40klph and it want change up, basically anything in mode A goes crazy.

Mode B seem better but with a different problem, at -10% it gone too far showing @ 100k actual (GPS) it reads 95k but as I backed it off (the lower I go the more this happens)
It starts to what feels like the motor is hesitating around 2,500-2,750rpm I’m on -8.5% is close to getting the speedo correct and going straight it's not noticeable but cornering etc you start to feel it.

Seems faulty but would like some input in case the supplier gives me grief.

Thks Greg


 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
Got a reply from Heal Tech ....

This is not a unit fault and a known issue on the AN650.
The calibration setting affects the CVT.
However, there's a solution and many customers have done this successfully:

The instructions below are for the 2007+ model.
As far as I'm aware, it's applicable to the 2014 model too

I ask the distributor if the unit fits 2014 and they replied yes, it would have be nice if the supplier (Heal Tech) also told them the above, anyway the distributor agreed to except a return, still cost me freight both ways ....

Greg
 

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I feel guilty for luring you into this.
They must have added more factors which the E-CVT takes into account to select the ratio.
Can you describe why mode A or B should make a difference?
As far as I know, they are only memories for 2 different settings.
Are you sure you didn't dial in -75% instead of -7.5%? The CVT thinks you are doing 12 kph when you are doing 45
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi ErikDK,

My decision you only helped :)

Mode A does crazy stuff that's why I think it dodgy unit, I did at first enter -75% but when I double checked it I realised and corrected it.

Mode B works well @ -10% but once you start going under that's when the hesitation start to be obvious.

The other thing I forgot to tell them is the test mode worked but didn't show "t" it displayed best description "E" without the top horizontal line.

At least I'll get most of my $$ back, lesson learnt move on. :)

Greg
 

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The "E" without the top line is the only way to make a "t" in a 7-segment display.

Just for the sake of science, can you elaborate on what way the engine behavior changed?

You didn't gain the expected increase in engine RPM ?

Did it stick at the low rpm when you wanted it to downshift in corners?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
It works as I wanted, increased the rpm 250-300 just a slight grumble, but tonight on the way home lane filtering the hesitation was quite annoying best description tapping the front brake on and off around 2,500rpm once your past 2,800rpm it's ok also ok cornering if you keep it above 2,800 but if your in slow moving traffic and toy drop into that rpm range no so good
 

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Greg, do you think that your 650 might be at fault?

I have an 09 and have never had the issues you have with the 2014. I have also in the UK had the 2014 on a test ride during a dealer open day and rode the 650 along with the hyabusa, 1800CR plus a couple of other large capacity bikes. At all times the 2014 650 went like bomb and on country roads easily kept pace with all other bikes. I did not notice any bogging down on acceleration when needed and it felt very similar to my normal 09. The 2014 as you say does have this economy mode but even with this I do not recall problems with acceleration when needed.

Have you tried another sample?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
andyrpsmith,

It's the low rpm at 60kph that I think is to low 2,500-2750rpm, if you give it throttle it's ok but it's so low it's takes a second to react, I've come from 650 Vstrom so it is slower to giddy up
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes it did exactly what I wanted it to do move the rpm up 250-300 more perfect or close to but that hesitation is a deal breaker and who knows what else it's doing to the cvt and it's associate parts

Greg
 

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I drove with a Speedohealer for about 500 miles, then removed it.
I did not like what it did to the RPM of the bike. It did correct my speed reading, but really messed up the RPM of my 2005 Burgman 650.
Much easier to just calculate the speed 10% speed reading.
 

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I drove with a Speedohealer for about 500 miles, then removed it.
I did not like what it did to the RPM of the bike. It did correct my speed reading, but really messed up the RPM of my 2005 Burgman 650.
Much easier to just calculate the speed 10% speed reading.
While I really appreciate knowing my exact speed at all times, and kept mine and installed a second speedo healer to reduce the rpm's below the default level.

The speed limits here are insanely low, and I refuse to go as much as 1 kph below them, and insist on riding around 3 kph below the ticket threshold, except with Police on my tail, then I'll do the limit + 1kph thanks to the true cruise control and the Burgman 650 engine braking.

Years of GPS use has hardwired into my brain that speed indicated as numbers is the actual speed, while analog gages are always 10% optimistic.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
My reason was (as mentioned) to increase the rpm @ 60kph, and by the looks of the earlier models it is the opposite.

After riding to work this morning (back to standard) I realised just how much better it rode with 250-300rpm increase ... are well not to be :-(

Greg

PS- maybe Heal Tech will release a modified version just for the (2007->) later models, not holding my breath.
 

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After reading this post I was Interested. I test drove my 09 at 60 kph aka 37 mph & I'm doing 3250 rpm. I do know my rear CT has corrected my mph to only a 5% error. I also drove at 2500 rpm & was showing 12-13 mph aka 19-20 kph. I just don't know how the 2013 & above 650 could be that different as far as speed to rpm goes compared to mine. :scratch:
 

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Suzuki decided to do something about the poor fuel economy, but they went to far and now the engine is revving to low.
The pre-2013's have a 3000 rpm lower threshold, which they only go below when the CVT is in the lowest gear/highest ratio.
They really should give the riders a choice between more different profiles than just auto/power modes.
 
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