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Discussion Starter #1
Having recently joined the ranks of the unemployed (retired) and with a CA trip coming up, I thought it would be a good time to do a spark plug check. Realizing that the plugs hide in cramped quarters behind the radiator, I decided to remove the front wheel and fender first to give me a little more room to work. This of course meant that I had to support the front end somehow. Not particularly wanting to work on a bike that's threatening to fall on me, I took some time figuring out how to use my car's scissors jack along with a bottle jack as a back-up to raise the front end, talk about overkill! It almost wasn't worth the effort, however, as I soon found out. I knew that after removing a screw, the radiator could be pulled forward, as my VStrom and SV 650 both worked that way, what I didn't realize was that the Burgman's radiator was a little different in that it is hinged on the right hand side and swings forwards, like a gate, only not quite so far, in fact, hardly at all! Anyway, I managed to sqeeze my hand in and remove the left hand plug, but the right hand bugger lives close to the hinged side of the rad and there was no way to get in there. I couldn't even SEE the plug cap, never mind get my hands on it! OK, so I unbolted the hinge and tried to pull the rad forward, but no way, the water hoses were connected to the top and bottom RIGHT hand side of the rad and prevented any noticeable movement. Since the hoses are connected to the back of the rad, there is no way to get at the clamps to unscrew them, even with the maintenance cover removed. In fact, according to the manual, to remove the rad, one has to first remove the leg shield and floorboard. To remove the leg shield, you first remove the handlebar covers, the front panel and lower leg shield! No, I'm not kidding.
So now my Burgie is back together, safely on its centerstand, with one clean sparkplug, waiting for a time when I feel up to doing a complete teardown!
For those wishing to attempt this procedure I have posted some pics on the photo page. Good luck!
 

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i had just recently changed my spark plugs. i have the benefit of having a real motorcycle lift in my garage so this may be easier for me. i put the bike on its centerstand on the lift as the front wheel needs to be turned to the left, so i am unable to use the wheel vise. i took off the rad cover and the bolt holing the rad to the frame. i noticed that it doesnt go foward that much myself but i came up with a fix. i used an 18 inch zip tie around the left fork and the bolt hole on the rad pulling the rad foward to the fork. that gave me enough room to get to the left plug easily. as for the right plug its more of a tool combination that makes that easy. instead of using one long extension for your spark plug socket i used two short extensions together putting one on and off at a time leaving room to get them out. the whole process took me about 30 minutes to finish. hopes this helps anyone else about to atempt this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You are a better man than I, sir! No matter how hard I pulled on the rad, I could not get my hand back far enough to pull on the plug cap. Yes, I'm sure that having the machine up higher would make things easier than groveling down on the ground like I did!

Cheers,

Bob
 

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Hey just a simple question. How many miles did you have on your 650? Plugs last a heck of a long time and maybe if you know what to look for in a plug you may not have to change it. Maybe take a real close look at the first plug you removed and decide if the second one really, really needs to be changed.

The question you should be asking, " Is the plug worn out and am I having plug related problems?". If you look closely at the centre tip of the plug ...is there any rounded off edges. How about the hooked end? Now if the ceramic is faulty you will have an engine that would have trouble running. Just some thoughts. Timothy
 

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i changed mine at 7200 miles ...300 short of the recommended. i am aware that the plugs that i changed were still in ok condition, i look at it this way.......they suggest to change the oil every 3000 miles....but the oil still may be good and not necessarily need changing as most motor oil properties do last well past 3000 miles, along with the filter. do we really want to wait till the last second to maintain our expensive investments or are we willing to get rid of partially good parts and fluids to make certain our vehicles are well maintained? just my 2 cents.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Timothy,

I was merely doing a spark plug check, not changing the plugs. I wanted to check their color and condition. I was also just curious to see how difficult/easy the procedure was.

Cheers,

Bob
 

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Hey Bob,

I did just that last week before the 3rd service. Plugs were fine at 13,000 km.

But then the Suzuki dealer changes plugs and charge me every service.

Spark plugs should last a lot more than 5,000 km. I was checking them prior to the service. Cheeky buggers changed perfectly good plugs.

I am not going to suggest that it was easy to get the plugs in and out, nor getting the coils off the top, but it was do-able without dismantling anything else.

Be very careful with the plug caps (plug mounted ignition coils) as I bet they are bloody expensive!!!

Use 3/8" drive ratchet and a good plug socket with rubber insert to hold the plugs (insert and remove).

Two short extensions are better that one. Fit the ratchet onto the socket extensions after getting the socket and plug in the hole.

As for the space for doing this, well it's not great but perservere :)

I didn't jack mine up either.

htm
nev
 

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I just did my 6000km service along with Plug check. I posted a couple of pics for quick reference http://burgmanusa.com/gallery/allwalk

It was tight work but I as well tied back the rad with tie wraps secured to the front forks. I didn't remove the wheel or fender but i did remove the rubber skirt that attaches to the side of the rad for easier viewing.

I had already purchased and gapped new plugs so I figured I would install them anyways.
The old plugs looked great in appearance but the gap had opened up to .032" . OH!!!!!!! i have to mention........I found my plugs when I went to remove them were just a touch more than finger tight.

I regapped the old plugs to .028" (the minimum tolerance, max. .0031") and put them in the tool kit as spares.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Allwalk, I compared my photos to yours and it seems that for some reason I could not pull my radiator out far enough. Perhaps I was a little concerned that I might break something, remembering what my father always told me: " if you have to force it, you're doing it wrong!" Anyway, I'd go right now and give it another try, But, unfortunately, I broke my leg on Friday jumping off my garage roof (don't ask)! I guess, like my CA trip, it will have to wait.

Cheers,

Bob
 

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plugs

i've done the 7500 mile service,changed oil& filter,trans. rear diff. cleaned and replaced the cvt and air filters, but the bike runs great,starts easy and gets at least 50mpg cruising at 75-80mph. why would i even want to look at my plugs? i won't do it until i have a noticeable drop in performance.
 

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After reading all of this I just decided my Burgie has some of those great 100,000 mile plugs... :p
 
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