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Recalling my Suzuki C50 days (last week), we VolusaiRiders found some interesting characteristics that don't seem to be carried over into the scooter world.

1. only wire low power accessories, e.g. cell phones, mp3 or GPS, throught the ignition siwtch. Always wire lights, power amps, etc. through a relay driven from the ignition accessory power fuse.

2. The fact that a circuit has a particular fuse size for something doesn't ever imply that much current is really available or a good idea. Fuses are there to protect wiring and, hopefully, prevent fires. Fuses aren't ever going to protect parts, especially electronics.

3. don't run your fuel tank dry, or nearly dry, since the fuel acts as lubricant/coolant for the fuel pump. Regularly running your tank level very low puts extra stress on the fuel pump. It there a generally recognized fuel capacity for the tank, I know the manual specs the tank at 3.5 gallons. On my C50 the spec was 3.9 galolons but the useful capacity was ~3.5 gallons. Can I expect the same behavior from the 400. BY that I mean ~3 gallons useable capacity. Does anyone know, roughly, how much gas is left at the top of the red bar on the gas guage (which could roughly translate into remaining range for a particular dirver's personal mpg).

4. Are there nonOEM equivalent sources and part cross references for consumables like filters, orings, belts (and has anyone put together a table of part numbers)?

I don't mean to beat horses that may already be dead (although feeding NormanB's petty amusements may be a worthwhile goal unto itself :wink: ) and these are things that will eventually become apparent to me with experience. I'm just trying to jump start my learning curve and might be helpful to other scooter noobs as well.

Oh, and BTW, what's the best oil to use for my scooter :D Nevermind... I hold my tire questions for later.
 

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Chatman128 said:
Recalling my Suzuki C50 days (last week), we VolusaiRiders found some interesting characteristics that don't seem to be carried over into the scooter world.

1. only wire low power accessories, e.g. cell phones, mp3 or GPS, throught the ignition siwtch. Always wire lights, power amps, etc. through a relay driven from the ignition accessory power fuse.

true, wire it according to yoour wants or needs

2. The fact that a circuit has a particular fuse size for something doesn't ever imply that much current is really available or a good idea. Fuses are there to protect wiring and, hopefully, prevent fires. Fuses aren't ever going to protect parts, especially electronics.

again true especially true and dang true

3. don't run your fuel tank dry, or nearly dry, since the fuel acts as lubricant/coolant for the fuel pump. Regularly running your tank level very low puts extra stress on the fuel pump. It there a generally recognized fuel capacity for the tank, I know the manual specs the tank at 3.5 gallons. On my C50 the spec was 3.9 galolons but the useful capacity was ~3.5 gallons. Can I expect the same behavior from the 400. BY that I mean ~3 gallons useable capacity. Does anyone know, roughly, how much gas is left at the top of the red bar on the gas guage (which could roughly translate into remaining range for a particular dirver's personal mpg).

can't help you there , I'm a gimp and never wanted to push that beast

4. Are there nonOEM equivalent sources and part cross references for consumables like filters, orings, belts (and has anyone put together a table of part numbers)?

don't know if the 2011 and the 2008 are exact but the bkb has a lot of that stuff along with the videos

I don't mean to beat horses that may already be dead (although feeding NormanB's petty amusements may be a worthwhile goal unto itself :wink: ) and these are things that will eventually become apparent to me with experience. I'm just trying to jump start my learning curve and might be helpful to other scooter noobs as well.

Oh, and BTW, what's the best oil to use for my scooter Nevermind... I hold my tire questions for later.
use the roundy shaped tires they work best :thumbup:
 

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Welcome

2. Makes sense, just like home breakers protect the wiring, not fixtures

3. Good point, wish my g/f would realize this with her car :roll: I suppose you would leave a gallon in the tank if nervous, it seems that there is about 0.8 when the needle hits the red zone

4. Good Question, I would certainly use Wix oil filters if one existed for this bike

Best oil? I was thinking of using synthetic. But I change motorcycle oil much much much sooner than the allowable mileage. Even if it looks dirty. Sometimes when I'm bored, or it's raining out. If I just had a long hard ride, I might change it at 2-3,000.
So any of the big 4 Japanese oil brands would do fine, because oils break down slowly at first and I think any would last a couple thousand miles. Therefore synthetic would be a waste of money for me.
Probably more important, is that Suzook allows you to keep the same dirty oil filter for more than one oil change. Yecch.

(I do use Mobil 1 religiously in my 1997 Saturn because it has a retarded, typical GM, cost-cutting, piston ring design that allows coking of the oil return ring with dino oil. 160,000 miles and no oil burning so far. A miracle for a Saturn SL). But the Burger 400 engine should do fine with dino oil :)
 

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1. Actually most of us do use a relay in the wiring for any additional accessories. Some even go so far as to use fuse blocks or panels to make powering farkles easier.
2. I haven't heard of that problem on the Burgman scooters. Maybe it is because we find a logical place to add the accessory? And the electrical system can handle what we're asking of it?
3. I fill my tank to the neck, then rock it about three to four times to get the air out. My gas gauge stays on full for the first 60 miles or gallon, then falls quickly to the 3/4 mark. The next gallon seems to be from the 3/4 to the 1/4 mark...or another 60 mile commute. From 1/4, I can get another 60 mile commute or another gallon. That's a long way of saying that from the top of the red area, I've easily got another 30 miles. The most I've put in, was 3.27 gallons twice. Chances are I was visualizing how heavy the bike would be to push to wherever the nearest gas station would be for the last several miles of those two rides.
4. There are non-OEM filters that you can find easily on places like eBay. Even the OEM filter is only about $4-5. The o-rings only need to be replaced occasionally. The CVT belt will last far longer than the service manual states. It's pricey, but a good source is Boulevard Suzuki.

Regarding oil, I use Delo full synthetic 5W-40 that I pick up in 1 gallon containers at Costco.

I hope this helps.

Chris
 

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Discussion Starter #5
mikeyMarine said:
use the roundy shaped tires they work best :thumbup:
I knew I could count on a fellow Floridian. I'm learnin' already.
 

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Thanks for the replies.

The oil question wasn't really serious. It's just the penultimate noob question du jour on any ICE forum I've ever seen. The considerate replies that were offered speaks volumes to the quality of the member population.

Thanks expescially for the gas guage info. I wouldn't relish pushin' the 'Svelte?' any distance. I have noticed the guage seem somewhat non-linear, as Daboo mentions. On my 2 tanks to date I noticed that I'm sitting at full for a while and then BAM I at 3/4 tank. I'm thinking, "Holy crap, have I been riding that long? I better be getting home."
 

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First you came from cruiser you are probably not used to high annual mileage---20-40,000 a year.

Burgman is fine, I assume you started with new Burgman-----so go out and put quick 5-10,000 miles on it to get to know bike----you will probably find its worst feature is the stock windshield.

1. Electric junk---Burgman has built it plug. can probably take big load as my electric vest works well off it.

2. Most reasonable oil filters I have found are from Dennis Kirk. Suzuki oil would work, Shell Rotella has MA rating and available at WalMart at fair price.

3. Get Shop manual

4. Based on now near 250,000 miles with rubber band drive scooter---use OEM belts only and change at Suzuki recommended intervals. Walking sucks.

This scooter has been on market a long time and is pretty trouble free----many problems are caused by tackle box techs or rider stupidity. If bought used, you first have to bring back to stock and fix anything previous owner may have screwed up.

When tire time----look at Suzuki recommended---pretty smart to stick with it----On another Burgman Forum, I posted results of Pirelli Daiblo that caused handling problems!!. Note on recommend tire---Bridgestone, they appear to have different compound than same size used on SilVerWing honda 600. I am on second new Burgman 400 and have ridden since 1955 over 1.5 million miles. Had new SilverWing,too---so know what it does or doesn't do.

Although I like GIVI boxes...my E46 has over 500,000 miles on various bikes------GIVI box screwed up Burgman handling when chips are down-----weight high and behind rear axle center----now I have small Stanley plastic, $10 mounted in rear. My goal is to not get killed by foul handling.
 

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Chatman128 said:
Thanks for the replies.

The oil question wasn't really serious. It's just the penultimate noob question du jour on any ICE forum I've ever seen. The considerate replies that were offered speaks volumes to the quality of the member population.

Thanks expescially for the gas guage info. I wouldn't relish pushin' the 'Svelte?' any distance. I have noticed the guage seem somewhat non-linear, as Daboo mentions. On my 2 tanks to date I noticed that I'm sitting at full for a while and then BAM I at 3/4 tank. I'm thinking, "Holy crap, have I been riding that long? I better be getting home."
Regarding the fuel question......!!!!!! Just make certain thet when fueling up - you do the "Burgman Burp" which means that you rock the scoot back & forth AND you will see the fuel level go down. Apparently - air is trapped in the fuel tank when filling from the side stand. I think that by doing this - I get about another quart or more into the tank......!!
 
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