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Discussion Starter #1
A bunch posted about oils.
With my Honda Forza I used the HONDA brand oil specified in the manual......for my new Suzuki Burgman I bought the specified Suzuki brand oil. This is going to be very good for my engine, during Running-In and long term, yes?
Stig
 

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For running in I'd assume so. But pretty much any oil that meets the specs for the manual would be fine. Just don't use fully synthetic until like 7-10 thousand miles. Could be more miles than that to wait. That's what I think I remember.
 

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Everybody has an opinion but QM is an expert and follows the path of full synthetic after about 7,500 miles.

I used Honda and Yamaha oil during the first 7,500 as well because I had some available. Don't think it hurt a thing.

That is the route I am taking as you have a small single cylinder engine turning relatively high rpms. Cost is not a big factor as it doesn't hold much oil. Suzuki says change oil filters every third time and I ere on caution and change every second time.

Others will have different opinions.
 

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What I use depends pretty much on who wrote the most recent oil related thread I read. If it was QM I use Rotella full syn. If it was DaveJ or CliffyK then Delco cheap dino. Dino seems to burn less, but not by much. After 62K miles of nothing but self induced maintenance issues and none of them even close to any kind of oil related thing, I'm pretty sure that for ordinary riders, anything that approaches reasonable conformity to the Suzuki requirements will fill the bill. I wouldn't use water and I wouldn't use bearing grease.
 

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After reading the good advice posted above, I think it's safe to say that the most important thing is that there is some oil in the engine.
 

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After reading the good advice posted above, I think it's safe to say that the most important thing is that there is some oil in the engine.
Ding! Ding! We have a winner.

For all the hoopla oil brands get on the internet, I have yet to see an engine failure caused by brand. Rather, all of the failures I've seen were caused by incorrect maintenance (too much or not enough oil), or damage to the engine that removed the oil (cracked cases, leaking seals). Bottom line is that any oil that meets the engineering standard for the motorcycle/scooter will do the job.

That said, if you toss and turn at night with visions of busted rings and scorched pistons in your head unless you use Motul fully synthetic oil - go for it. Life's too short to worry about spending a couple extra bucks on oil changes. Especially if it gives you confidence and lets you enjoy the ride.
 

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After reading the good advice posted above, I think it's safe to say that the most important thing is that there is some oil in the engine.
Ding! Ding! We have a winner.

For all the hoopla oil brands get on the internet, I have yet to see an engine failure caused by brand. Rather, all of the failures I've seen were caused by incorrect maintenance (too much or not enough oil), or damage to the engine that removed the oil (cracked cases, leaking seals). Bottom line is that any oil that meets the engineering standard for the motorcycle/scooter will do the job.

That said, if you toss and turn at night with visions of busted rings and scorched pistons in your head unless you use Motul fully synthetic oil - go for it. Life's too short to worry about spending a couple extra bucks on oil changes. Especially if it gives you confidence and lets you enjoy the ride.
Two Winners.
The only thing I would have to add is "Change your oil filter with every oil change"
Can someone explain why would you want to filter CLEAN OIL through a DIRTY FILTER?
 

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Can someone explain why would you want to filter CLEAN OIL through a DIRTY FILTER?
Filters have an efficiency (a measure of how much particulate contamination of varying size is removed) associated with them. If you look at the efficiency over time you will see that the efficiency increases with use as the filter loads and then starts to degrade. If you change your filter at each change you may never reach the point at which the filter is maximally efficient. You can think of it as 'breaking' a filter in. You actually may have a 'better' filter (removing a higher percentage of smaller particles) for your second oil change than you did when you replaced the filter.
 

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Doesn't a dirty oil or air filter restrict the flow of the lubricating oil or breather air?
Any documentation that supports efficiency of dirty vs clean filters?
I'm looking for something in writing and can't find any.
 

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Chatmans' right. There is a natural trade off w/efficiency and flow. You have to sacrifice some flow to filter out dirt. If the filter allows lots of flow,air or oil, then it is letting big stuff by as well ie: dirt. The 'high flow' guaze filters that you put oil on are more free flowing but they aren't as efficient at removing dirt as a stock cloth-paper filter.Ask any engineer.
 

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What you can count on is no manufacturer is going to say they recommend changing filters on the 3rd oil change if it is going to somehow harm the engine to do so.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
I had to go back and look at the manual.
By golly I've never seen a manual, or heard a mechanic advise leaving in a used oil filter while replacing with new oil.
THAT one is going to take some getting used to....if I do follow the advice.
Been changing the oil on my cars for 40 yrs -- never left an old filter in there.
So, "10W/40 Suzuki Performance 4 Motor Oil" as stated in the manual is OK?
Also, IMHO - what a goofy procedure just to change the rear drive oil!...and Suzuki could learn a thing or two about bucket & shims from studying the Honda Forza set-up.
275 on the clock - and still varying the throttle every few seconds. Looking forward to 1000 miles! Adjusted the shock for my weight....if 3 is for a typical Asian owner. Otherwise I am enjoying this scooter pretty much, considering that I can't cruise at any speed peacefully for a few more weeks!
Stig
 

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Remember,
Suzuki's main business is Selling New Vehicles
Yeah, but are they really going to tell you do do something that will cause you to damage your engine? Pretty sure that they would not.

In my 650 Burgman I use a good synthetic oil. Shell T-6 5W-40 is what I like. I change it every 5K and every 10K I also change the oil filter along with the transmission and rear end oil.

I do so for two reasons. A petroleum engineer friend of my dad's (with a PHD no less) says that is plenty often enough and I am lazy. Not so lazy that I would risk damaging my bike however. But since I have three other bikes as well and I only put about 7-8 thousand miles a year on the Burgman I am not too worried about it. If it craps out on my in 10 years or so then I will be good with that. If I am even still around by then that is.
 

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If Suzuki recommends filter replacement every third oil change and you do it every second oil change there is still a 33 1/3 % cushion. But in any event the filter is easy to get too on the 400 so do as you wish.
 

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I agree about the rear drive. That is one change Suzuki could make on an updated 400 that would really improve the machine from a maintenance perspective. I wonder how many 400s have never had the FD oil changed due to the procedure?
 
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