So, the 20 gram sliders I put in were working great by dropping the rpm by 800 once I hit 5000 rpm. But, now the past 2 days they won't do that. They just keep goining up. So, I went back to the shop that installed them and had him ride it. He said that the rpm's are accelerating fine. But that is compared to rollers. So, did they topple over?
Slider Problems
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If you did not de-bur the edges of the rear ramp plate,
you will suffer very pre-mature wear on Dr Pulley sliders
Stock rollers never get to the edge, so it doesn't matter,
but Dr Pulley sliders WILL go to the end of the ramp,
& the sharp edge will damage them.
The edge might look OK, but you can feel a sharp edge
from the stamping/manufacturing process...a touch-up
with a grinding bit in a Dremel tool will do the job.
Even a fine grinding wheel in an electric drill will work.
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I'm talking about the edges of the ramp
that Cliffyk has pointed out
with the green arrows in his pictures.
That's a good write up! It makes me wonder why Zuki decided to reduce number of gears in 2007. On the other hand people with flippin sliders can now partially get same effect just by changing the movable plate. Providing faces' tilt didn't change from 2006.
So, what I'm seeing there is the piece that goes on top that needs to be filed down? Not the end of the ramp the sliders sit in then? Also, I put the sliders in the correct way, lubed them up with grafite powder, and the rpms still won't drop. I made extra sure the piece was compressed 100%. I don't know what to do. They are just reacting like regular rollers.
thus immediately increasing their chances to flip.
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I am confused by this statement as there are no "gears" (other than the final drive gears)--the CVT is a continuously variable drive?
The ramp plates are not interchangeable across the 2006/2007 MY boundary--the pre-'07 plate will not work in a post '07 variator anymore that does the later plate work in the earlier variator...
Ok, so I just saw a video saying never put anything in the ramps. Just the weights and that's it. The only reason I don't do that, is that the sliders didn't seem to slide too well. They seem to catch when I put them in. What else should I do?
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Yes, that is the ramp plate. As a minimum the sharp edges on the ramp plate fingers need to be removed. Here is a photo of a new, never used, pre-'07 ramp plate showing what needs to be done:
I took this one step further and removed the entire "hook" at each finger's end, and noticeably radiused the ends.
Again yes, the sliders sit in the movable drive pulley face; I.e. the half of the drive pulley that moves in and out to change the drive pulley assembly's pitch. The other, outboard, half is the fixed drive pulley face.
Note: at the rear of the CVT drive is the driven pulley/clutch assembly which also has two faces, one movable and one fixed. On the driven pulley assembly it is the outer face that moves--the inner face is fixed.
As Bolzen stated no lubricant is needed, in fact none should be used as the plastic material of the rollers is "self-lubricating" as stated on the DRP website, as is the case with the stock rollers. I realise some have used and even recommended dry lubricants for the CVT rollers/sliders--IMHO this is misguided.
NSFW Warning--their site insists upon playing some sort of silly music when you access it.
Do you have any photos of the sliders--if they are badly worn from the ramp plate's fingers they may no longer be able to perform as they once did.
Now, how can I avoid the 100 rpm increase while still being able to use the sliders? You said in the article that from grinding the fingers down, that raised the rpm. Can I just take the sharpness off, and not have an increased rpm?
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