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Discussion Starter #1
So, the 20 gram sliders I put in were working great by dropping the rpm by 800 once I hit 5000 rpm. But, now the past 2 days they won't do that. They just keep goining up. So, I went back to the shop that installed them and had him ride it. He said that the rpm's are accelerating fine. But that is compared to rollers. So, did they topple over?
 

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did you change anything else when you installed the sliders, like a new belt or new torque spring. a lot of times with a new belt the rpms will change after the belt is "seated" or "broke in".
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes, I did actually. Anything I can do to get the rpm drop back? I didn't even think about that. He was saying something about if it broke, but it hasn't at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Ok, so the sliders are beyond worn for under a month of riding. I put them in the right way, and the first rev was perfect. I got on it, and now it is 200 rpm's higher. What can I do to he the rpm drop again?
 

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When you refitted the variator did you hold the ramp plate at the back, if you don't
the sliders can turn before you get the thing bolted up, it's a bit of a finger trapper
to do but if you haven't then maybe that's what as happened.
 

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Ok, so the sliders are beyond worn for under a month of riding.
If you did not de-bur the edges of the rear ramp plate,
you will suffer very pre-mature wear on Dr Pulley sliders
Stock rollers never get to the edge, so it doesn't matter,
but Dr Pulley sliders WILL go to the end of the ramp,
& the sharp edge will damage them.
The edge might look OK, but you can feel a sharp edge
from the stamping/manufacturing process...a touch-up
with a grinding bit in a Dremel tool will do the job.
Even a fine grinding wheel in an electric drill will work.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Are you talking about the top that has the 4 pieces in it? Or the part with the ramp?
 

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Are you talking about the top that has the 4 pieces in it? Or the part with the ramp?
I'm talking about the edges of the ramp
that Cliffyk has pointed out
with the green arrows in his pictures.
 

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That's a good write up! It makes me wonder why Zuki decided to reduce number of gears in 2007. On the other hand people with flippin sliders can now partially get same effect just by changing the movable plate. Providing faces' tilt didn't change from 2006.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
So, what I'm seeing there is the piece that goes on top that needs to be filed down? Not the end of the ramp the sliders sit in then? Also, I put the sliders in the correct way, lubed them up with grafite powder, and the rpms still won't drop. I made extra sure the piece was compressed 100%. I don't know what to do. They are just reacting like regular rollers.
 

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That's a good write up! It makes me wonder why Zuki decided to reduce number of gears in 2007.
I am confused by this statement as there are no "gears" (other than the final drive gears)--the CVT is a continuously variable drive?

On the other hand people with flippin sliders can now partially get same effect just by changing the movable plate. Providing faces' tilt didn't change from 2006.
The ramp plates are not interchangeable across the 2006/2007 MY boundary--the pre-'07 plate will not work in a post '07 variator anymore that does the later plate work in the earlier variator...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ok, so I just saw a video saying never put anything in the ramps. Just the weights and that's it. The only reason I don't do that, is that the sliders didn't seem to slide too well. They seem to catch when I put them in. What else should I do?
 

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So, what I'm seeing there is the piece that goes on top that needs to be filed down?
Yes, that is the ramp plate. As a minimum the sharp edges on the ramp plate fingers need to be removed. Here is a photo of a new, never used, pre-'07 ramp plate showing what needs to be done:



I took this one step further and removed the entire "hook" at each finger's end, and noticeably radiused the ends.

Not the end of the ramp the sliders sit in then?
Again yes, the sliders sit in the movable drive pulley face; I.e. the half of the drive pulley that moves in and out to change the drive pulley assembly's pitch. The other, outboard, half is the fixed drive pulley face.

Note: at the rear of the CVT drive is the driven pulley/clutch assembly which also has two faces, one movable and one fixed. On the driven pulley assembly it is the outer face that moves--the inner face is fixed.

Also, I put the sliders in the correct way, lubed them up with grafite powder, and the rpms still won't drop. I made extra sure the piece was compressed 100%. I don't know what to do. They are just reacting like regular rollers.
As Bolzen stated no lubricant is needed, in fact none should be used as the plastic material of the rollers is "self-lubricating" as stated on the DRP website, as is the case with the stock rollers. I realise some have used and even recommended dry lubricants for the CVT rollers/sliders--IMHO this is misguided.

NSFW Warning--their site insists upon playing some sort of silly music when you access it.

Do you have any photos of the sliders--if they are badly worn from the ramp plate's fingers they may no longer be able to perform as they once did.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I took an Olfa knife and shaved down the worm areas, and took some wet paper and smoothed them out too. They were as close to usable as I could get. I think I caught them in time. How can I keep them from flipping?
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Now, how can I avoid the 100 rpm increase while still being able to use the sliders? You said in the article that from grinding the fingers down, that raised the rpm. Can I just take the sharpness off, and not have an increased rpm?
 
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